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09-07-2017, 08:20 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 18
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Furnace Not Working
We got our 2014 FR3 back in May. It has spent most of its time in the south so no need for the heater. It started to get cold, so when I turned it on the unit ran for 10 seconds then turned off. I have the fan on Auto and the Furnace is selected on the controller(green light beside furnace). The propane tank is about 1/4 and I have a 20 lb tank connected via the extended stay connector.
I turned the thermostat off for a couple minutes then back on and same thing furnace runs for 10 seconds then off with no hot air.
On another note, when I try to take off the furnace cover outside, there seems to be something sticking because with all the screws removed it won't separate from the exhaust ducts...
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
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09-07-2017, 08:31 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,300
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If this is the first time you have run it, there may be air in the lines. If it does not light in a certain time, it shuts off, If this happens several times, it will go into safe mode and not start. If this happens, pull the fuse for the furnace for a minute or two then reinstall and try again. Also run the stove for a minute or two to bleed the lines to the stove.
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2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
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09-07-2017, 09:12 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 18
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The stove and oven work fine. When we got it from the dealer they showed us it worked, but the furnace has not run since then. I have read that there should be a clicking sound trying to ignite the burner... but I don't hear anything. UPDATE: the blower turns on for 30 seconds then shuts off.
I checked the batteries and got the following numbers:
The red one seems off... also I thought the batteries are usually 2 6v batteries in series, I think I have 2 12v in parallel.
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09-07-2017, 09:24 PM
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#4
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Scoundrel
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Montrose, Colorado
Posts: 2,810
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Others here with more experience than I might be able to help but if battery voltage is not high enough it will exhibit those symptoms.
Edit: Sorry the photo didn't show up on my browser before I posted the above.
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2015 F-150 5.0L V8 XLT Crew Cab, 4x4, Tow Package, 36 gal tank, 3.55 locker, 1891 payload, Integrated Brake Controller, Roadmaster Active Suspension
Wooden Spoon Survivor
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09-07-2017, 09:43 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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If you're boondocking (no shore power) and running strictly on the batteries, if the batteries are NOT up to snuff, the blower fan will pull the voltage way down. The furnace will not light if the voltage is too low.
Try measuring the voltage at the furnace with the blower running. I suspect it's low.
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09-07-2017, 09:47 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 18
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I will try that. We are currently hooked up to shore power 30A with nothing running on top of the standard items.
I also need to figure out how to get the outer furnace panel off. Last time I tried to open it, I removed all the screws and it seemed to be stuck on something. I was pulling pretty hard and it didn't budge. I even used a long screw driver for leverage but no luck
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09-08-2017, 01:20 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 520
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Been a while, but when I last removed it, I think there was 4 screws and one of the outlets/inlets slides onto the tube that is hard mounted on the inside. So you can't pull up or down to remove the cover, it has slide off outward towards you.
Misspoke about parallel wiring. + to +, - to - as A32 Duece mentioned.
And I'd have a closer look at that LH battery after you put it on the charger and take a resting voltage reading. Looks like it might be toast if its truly at 11.6v.
https://www.energymatters.com.au/com...age-discharge/
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Mike
2015 FR3 30DS
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09-08-2017, 01:53 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 18
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The batteries are 12v batteries....the model number is 27MDP which lists as a 12v. All of the other 12v items work, but I will try disconnecting and testing them. When I checked the voltage I did make sure the coach was disconnected from the shore line so it wasn't reading the charger voltage.
When you get a chance would you send me pics of how your batteries are wired? I thought most coaches where wired with 2 6v deep cell batteries...
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09-08-2017, 02:24 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mount Laurel, New Jersey
Posts: 9,230
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They are wired correctly. Plus to plus and minus to minus. Disconnect the one battery then check both batterys one at a time. Going from one battery plus side to another battery minus side can throw your reading off.
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2012 SunSeeker 3100SS Toad-1962 Futura Average 100 + days camping
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09-08-2017, 02:45 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 520
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I misspoke. Should be + to +. When I think about my setup, I have one swapped backwards, so my + to + is diagonal from each other. Sorry about the confusion. Check out your left hand battery though.
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Mike
2015 FR3 30DS
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09-08-2017, 07:39 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 18
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I doubt it is your batteries if you are plugged in. If it has been sitting a long time you might have a stuck sail switch. If you can get your door off, give the furnace a good smack about center of the blower wheel cover, that should loosen it up.
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09-08-2017, 07:53 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,464
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Your batteries look a little fat around the middle.
Have they ever frozen?
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2017 Dynamax Isata 4
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09-08-2017, 08:44 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 18
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I don't know if the batteries ever froze... the first owner had it in New York so it might have... but it was purchased in CA and we have had it in NV and now in AL
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09-09-2017, 11:15 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 18
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I read a couple places to make sure to try to turn it on and off 3-4 times to help get the gas to the furnace or purge the system, but still no start.
After the blower kicks on, should I hear the starter/igniter? If so, I don't here anything. Would this mean the sail switch is not working? If the sail switch is not working, then it would not let gas go through the system nor trigger the ignitor correct?
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09-10-2017, 10:14 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 102
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Also if it hasnt been run (furnace) or has been a long time....expect to open all the windows and run your vent fans. The smell passes but can be quite annoying if you cant vent it out.
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09-11-2017, 08:51 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 520
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Here's a pic of our battery setup. Like what others said, if your on shore power and your converter is up and running, your 12vdc to the furnace controller card should be fine. But we had this happen once where the furnace controller card needed the 12v fuse at the controller panel removed and replaced (wasn't blown either). After I did that, it automatically restarted as normal. Also, if you do need new batteries, you can upsize your Group 27 batteries to Group 31 if staying with 12v batteries or go the route of 6v batteries too and still fit in the stock battery tray.
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Mike
2015 FR3 30DS
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12-07-2017, 04:21 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 10
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Somewhat similar situation has happened with one of my colleague. His furnace was also giving him the same trouble. But, thanks to the team oil to gas furnace conversion NJ who helped him in repairing his furnace in less time that too at fair price. You can also look for professional from your area and get it repaired soon. Hope this helps you. Good luck.
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