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Old 03-27-2016, 02:51 PM   #11
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Bob/Linda, 99 Dodge 2500 Cummins,2010 8280 Rockwood Ultra-lite 5er, PullRite Superglide----- I'm retired......but work part time as a pain in the ass!........... USMC.
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:02 PM   #12
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Control board as well and I was told that Forrest River knew about the problem and only replaced if problems surfaced.

Pretty crappy move

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Old 03-27-2016, 07:20 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Edmo View Post
Control board as well and I was told that Forrest River knew about the problem and only replaced if problems surfaced.

Pretty crappy move
Edmo, who told you Forest River knew? Was it someone from Forest River or someone from your dealership or ??? Just wondering.
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Old 03-27-2016, 08:23 PM   #14
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Our control board quit 700 miles from our dealer on a 30 degree night while under warranty. The local service center did not work with warranties so we paid $350.00 to fix it. Dometic only would reimburse for the cost of the part and their time to fix so even under warranty it cost us $150.00
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Old 03-28-2016, 11:47 AM   #15
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Furnaces can be fun! Mine drove me nuts for over 3 weeks.

Mine worked fine. Took 5er to dealer to have roof coated, nothing to do with furnace. Got my 5er back and forget it! Acted like yours, tried to fire then shut down. Then out of the blue it ran! Worked for about a week then ran out of propane. Took the bottles and got them filled and put them back in. DAMN, Nothing! I had an analog thermostat and got aggravated enough and decided to replace it. Had one so yanked the one off the wall and put another one on. It has been running fine for the last two months.

After looking at the old stat carefully I noticed that a solder joint on the back for the terminal strip was bad! Sometimes it would make a good connection, sometimes it would not.

My point is don't rule out anything! Especially on an intermittent problem. Stats are located on a flimsy wall where vibration can cause a connection to make or break very easily. Wiggle the wires and see what happens. You might be surprised. I can't tell you how many times I checked those wires. Yea, must have been a broken wire, its working! Then two days later what the )&Y$#$^*.

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Old 03-29-2016, 09:06 PM   #16
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Among the now countless items defective with our FR3, this was one too. But it seemed to simply be an issue of restricted gas flow, maybe in the line somewhere from construction debris. We also had a situation with the restricted gas flow not letting a strong flame to the stove/burners. After some driving around and bumping along (back and forth to the dealer), it seemed to clear. Both stove/burner and furnace have seemed to work fine lately.
Jim & Beth
Indianapolis, IN
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Old 04-01-2016, 04:51 PM   #17
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Boots49 - thanks for the troubleshooting guide. I don't need it now, my furnace is working fine (knock wood), but I've printed that out to put in the RV with our other manuals etc. for if/when I do need it. thanks very much - Cincia
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Old 04-23-2016, 11:53 AM   #18
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Furnace Ignition problem solved Suburban NT20

We noticed that the furnace would not work at all last november 2015 when hooked to campground power (no blower or ignition) . Subsequently,After being left at the shop for 2 months, 8 hours of service was done to the camper; apparently a major re-wire. When we went for our first Spring "shakeout" overnighter in March, we found that while the blower fan worked, the ignitor would not light the furnace. Last weekend I followed steps described elsewhere on these forums to clear out the gas lines. I was able to get the furnace to ignite once, and it actually burned for 2 hours using battery power. When I tried to ignite again after 2 hours off, there would be a momentary burst of heat from the exhaust vent but no ignition. One thing I observed was that a lit burner on the stove would extinguish when the ignitor clicked. When I was able to get a Suburban furnace expert on the phone at the local CW shop, he informed me that it sounded like a bad regulator. I was able to find an exact replacement Fairview Model GR 9959 on Amazon which was delivered same day. The swap out took me an hour (since I was not familiar with the process) to loosen the fittings, properly apply the yellow PTFE thread tape, and soap bubble test the reconnected fittings for gas leaks (there was leakage on the outlet side which I remedied by tightening another turn). We opened the PU this morning. On battery power the ignitor caught the burner 1st try and the furnace ran for 1 hour. We turned the furnace off for 1 hour, and success! again ignited 1st try.

I now have confidence in my ability to do this repair in 30 minutes and plan to carry along a spare 2 stage LP pressure regulator in the camper during the cold months. This new camper has only been in use for 25 months. The regulators should last 10 years but my experience shows only 2 years. So while sail switches and circuit boards may be involved, in this case a $26 part easily replaced by the owner was the cure.

P.S. I posted this by mistake to the motorhomes forum. I will attempt to copy to the popups forum. However, do remember to consider the regulator.

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