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Old 05-25-2015, 01:21 AM   #11
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I'm not sure I understand what it does
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Old 05-25-2015, 10:48 AM   #12
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Doing this requires both of the parts I mention in my first post. The thermostat is included with the control box. If you want you A/C fan to run all the time go to your thermostat and put it in fan mode. in fan mode you have 3 options. Auto will cycle off and on as required for the a/c or heat strip to maintain the desired temperature. The hi or low setting will turn the fan on full time and the a/c compressor or heat strip will come in as required. If the thermostat switch is in auto and the air temp is more than 4 or 5 degrees from the thermostat setting the fan will run in Hi. When the temp is within 4 or 5 degrees the fan will switch to low automatically. When the desired temp is reached the fan and heat strip or compressor shut down. I am going on memory to answer these questions right now I have traded up and no longer own the FR3.
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Old 05-25-2015, 09:15 PM   #13
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You rock. Thank you. Purchasing the parts today and will write back after the install.
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Old 05-25-2015, 09:23 PM   #14
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I bought mine from RV Parts Country back December for 59.00, I put it in in March and since we have been camping it has worked great, saving me about 60 bucks in propane so far this year. My furnace can operate 2 nights on a 20lb tank, so this heat strip is working well. It took me about 45 minutes to an hour to install. I didn't have to buy a new thermostat or control box so the 59.00 that I spent has already paid for itself. Only thing I had to do was set a dip switch in the control box and reset the thermostat. Well worth the money!!
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Old 06-17-2015, 09:35 AM   #15
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Follow up.... One of the best upgrades ever. Per my previous post, we roared through one full 30# lp tank and part of another in one trip prior to this install. This last trip, the furnace was never needed and we only used 1/4 of a bottle (measured from the frost line on the bottle early one morning ). Highly recommend this and a huge thank you to z3406 for guidance!
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Old 06-17-2015, 11:07 AM   #16
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I agree as well, I love mine
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:18 PM   #17
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A small electric heater warms a lot more than a heat strip! and all you have to do is plug it in thermostatically controlled too for less than $30
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:40 PM   #18
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Debatable. The heat strip in our old TT had the interior temps over 85*f with outside temps in the low 50s and high 40s. Stand alone heaters especially ceramics heat what is directly in front of them. In a 20 to 30 foot rv, the ac unit and ducting destribute the heat thoroughly. We had one night with the temps in the low 20s where the heat strip ran continuously and the furnace only kicked on twice. Best of all, it is out of the way, nobody tripping over it or the cords and I don't have to worry about it catching fire in the night because someone blocked the airflow or knocked it over.

The old style heat strip in our last TT cost $50 and I only topped off one propane tank per season. Our new FW burned through 40+ lbs of propane in two spring trips (prior to installing the strip) justifying the $130 expense which will pay for itself over the next few years. With the lp only running the fridge on the road and occasionally helping out the electric element on the water heater, I expect to be back to less than one tank per season.
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:43 AM   #19
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the small portable unit I use is small enough to sit on kitchen counter and heats the whole MH down in the Low 30"s and my furnace does not come on (it has a fan in it also to distribute heat. If it gets colder than that I run the furnace to make sure heat gets to the plumbing in the areas where it is needed. to each their own. Had the heat strip on another coach- it would not heat the bays where the water was. be careful of that!
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:32 PM   #20
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Lfree
You have a very valid point on heat strip and below freezing. When I had the FR3 winterized I would blow out all the fresh water lines and put antifreeze in the drain traps. I keep my coach plugged in all the time so I would set he thermostat on the wall to heat strip, about 45 degrees and turn on the arctic packs to protect the waste water tanks. If living in the coach and sub freezing weather the furnace is going to be needed to heat the basement. The beauty of the heat strip is it uses the existing hvac wiring and thermostat system. You are not going to blow a circuit breaker turning on the heat strip and microwave at the same time. I also have a plug in heater I use to increase the comfort in the coach in the 45-32 degree temp range. The portable heater can and will trip circuit breakers and the one I have requited 32" free space in front of the heating element so the places I can put it are limited. Your statement that a portable heater warming more than a heat strip takes some looking into. Watts are Watts and to get more wattage turned into heat on a typical RV 10 or 15 amp circuit is difficult to do. The heat strip will pull power from the same hard wired circuit that the AC Compressor uses so no worry about overloading that circuit. My portable heater on the high setting will trip the kitchen circuit breaker in about 10 minutes and instantly on the low setting if anything else on the circuit is switched on. The heat strip is whole house thermostatically controlled so its set and forget. A heat strip, portable electric heat or a combination of both can significantly reduce the reliance on the propane furnace which is a resource that is problematic at best to renew when at the campsite. I will say this the cost of the heat strip has already been paid for by the propane I did not have to buy the month I lived in the coach with temps in the 30-70 degree range. Cooking and heating were both handled by the on board propane tank without refilling it. Think how far I could have stretched that tank with an induction range and convection microwave but that is another story. Everyone reading this understand one thing if the temps drop below freezing your only recourse is the propane furnace or a full or partial coach water system winterization.
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