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Old 07-31-2014, 07:42 PM   #1
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Heat Strip Install

I like to utilize the campground utilities to the maximum extent possible. I would rather use their electricity than my propane whenever possible. My unit is a 2015 so it has the electric water heater capability and the 15000 btu ac unit. The unit in mine is a Dometic Brisk Air II and Dometic makes a heat strip kit that will install in the unit. The part number for the heat strip kit is 3315450.000. The heat strip also requires a new thermostat and control box. The part number for that is 3313189.056. I was able to find both parts for less than 130.00. The instructions for the heat strip are very good and walk you right thru the installation the thermostat and control box not so much. After some looking you can actually just unplug all the connectors from the old box and connect them to the new box but you will need to open the cover from the new box and plug them in inside. Took me about and hour and a half to do the install and it is checking out fine so far. The heat strip will take the chill out to around 40 degrees OAT after that its the furnaces job.
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Old 08-01-2014, 06:32 PM   #2
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Where did you buy these from..?

I looked around and would be interested in knowing who you got these from. Seems like it would be a good alternative to space heaters...
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Old 08-01-2014, 06:55 PM   #3
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Here

Air Conditioner Accessories
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:46 AM   #4
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I too am going to install one of these in my new unit.

I figure I am paying for electricity already so might as well use some of the Campgrounds.

Thanks for providing the link. Looks like an easy install.

The non-ducted one looks like it is wired to directly plug into the A/C unit somewhere. Looks like a simple screw(s) to mount into the A/C unit.

Vin.
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:58 PM   #5
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If you have an FR3 you have to use the ducted kit. The kit installation is simple with the provided instructions, the controller is what takes some thought.
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:47 PM   #6
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Ok. Thanks.

I will not order anything until I have the actual unit and model # in hand. I will also open it up and poke around.

Just so I am clear. This is done from the underside of the unit right? I am not looking to figure out a way to work on it from the roof. One should not walk on a pop up roof.

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Old 08-15-2014, 07:32 PM   #7
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My coach is a FR3 30DS. The coach has a ladder installed to gain access to the roof. The heat strip installs from the top ie the roof and the control box installs from inside of the coach after removing the air filter screen. If you are picking up a new coach from a dealer make sure you go on top to check the condition of the roof prior to taking delivery. That is normal procedure and included in just about all pre delivery inspection check lists I have seen. Here is a link to a PDI checklist
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...spection.shtml
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Old 05-24-2015, 06:59 PM   #8
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After cruising through a 30# lp tank, I have been searching on how to do this. We had the strip on our old camper and it was a simple install. No computers no nothing. Thank you for posting this.

One question though, with the install of the strip, box, and new thermostat, can you control the heat output? The old brisk airs were either on or off. Had to add a simple thermostat to make it cycle without cooking us out of the camper.

Thank you,

Scooter
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Old 05-24-2015, 07:17 PM   #9
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The required new thermostat has a heat strip setting in addition to the fan, furnace and a/c settings. The temperature that is set in the thermostat is what the heat strip will attempt to reach. The heat strip itself is either off or on kinda like the a/c until it reaches the desired temp. The heat strip by itself works until the outside air reaches about 40f, lower than that and it needs help to maintain a setting.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:00 PM   #10
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Man you are fast! Does the themostat come with the box that goes in the bottom of the ac unit? Just pulled mine apart and saw the original box. Can you set the fan to keep running continuously while the heat strip cycles on and off?

Sorry for the questions, but there is limited info out there. Had to punt and hope for the best on the old unit and it worked out. The prices have gone up a bit from your original post. Around $180 so far for both parts. The wife (accountant/funds mgr) approved either way .

Thank you!
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Old 05-25-2015, 12:21 AM   #11
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I'm not sure I understand what it does
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Old 05-25-2015, 09:48 AM   #12
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Doing this requires both of the parts I mention in my first post. The thermostat is included with the control box. If you want you A/C fan to run all the time go to your thermostat and put it in fan mode. in fan mode you have 3 options. Auto will cycle off and on as required for the a/c or heat strip to maintain the desired temperature. The hi or low setting will turn the fan on full time and the a/c compressor or heat strip will come in as required. If the thermostat switch is in auto and the air temp is more than 4 or 5 degrees from the thermostat setting the fan will run in Hi. When the temp is within 4 or 5 degrees the fan will switch to low automatically. When the desired temp is reached the fan and heat strip or compressor shut down. I am going on memory to answer these questions right now I have traded up and no longer own the FR3.
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Old 05-25-2015, 08:15 PM   #13
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You rock. Thank you. Purchasing the parts today and will write back after the install.
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Old 05-25-2015, 08:23 PM   #14
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I bought mine from RV Parts Country back December for 59.00, I put it in in March and since we have been camping it has worked great, saving me about 60 bucks in propane so far this year. My furnace can operate 2 nights on a 20lb tank, so this heat strip is working well. It took me about 45 minutes to an hour to install. I didn't have to buy a new thermostat or control box so the 59.00 that I spent has already paid for itself. Only thing I had to do was set a dip switch in the control box and reset the thermostat. Well worth the money!!
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Old 06-17-2015, 08:35 AM   #15
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Follow up.... One of the best upgrades ever. Per my previous post, we roared through one full 30# lp tank and part of another in one trip prior to this install. This last trip, the furnace was never needed and we only used 1/4 of a bottle (measured from the frost line on the bottle early one morning ). Highly recommend this and a huge thank you to z3406 for guidance!
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Old 06-17-2015, 10:07 AM   #16
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I agree as well, I love mine
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Old 07-23-2015, 03:18 PM   #17
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A small electric heater warms a lot more than a heat strip! and all you have to do is plug it in thermostatically controlled too for less than $30
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Old 07-23-2015, 03:40 PM   #18
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Debatable. The heat strip in our old TT had the interior temps over 85*f with outside temps in the low 50s and high 40s. Stand alone heaters especially ceramics heat what is directly in front of them. In a 20 to 30 foot rv, the ac unit and ducting destribute the heat thoroughly. We had one night with the temps in the low 20s where the heat strip ran continuously and the furnace only kicked on twice. Best of all, it is out of the way, nobody tripping over it or the cords and I don't have to worry about it catching fire in the night because someone blocked the airflow or knocked it over.

The old style heat strip in our last TT cost $50 and I only topped off one propane tank per season. Our new FW burned through 40+ lbs of propane in two spring trips (prior to installing the strip) justifying the $130 expense which will pay for itself over the next few years. With the lp only running the fridge on the road and occasionally helping out the electric element on the water heater, I expect to be back to less than one tank per season.
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Old 07-24-2015, 06:43 AM   #19
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the small portable unit I use is small enough to sit on kitchen counter and heats the whole MH down in the Low 30"s and my furnace does not come on (it has a fan in it also to distribute heat. If it gets colder than that I run the furnace to make sure heat gets to the plumbing in the areas where it is needed. to each their own. Had the heat strip on another coach- it would not heat the bays where the water was. be careful of that!
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Old 07-24-2015, 12:32 PM   #20
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You have a very valid point on heat strip and below freezing. When I had the FR3 winterized I would blow out all the fresh water lines and put antifreeze in the drain traps. I keep my coach plugged in all the time so I would set he thermostat on the wall to heat strip, about 45 degrees and turn on the arctic packs to protect the waste water tanks. If living in the coach and sub freezing weather the furnace is going to be needed to heat the basement. The beauty of the heat strip is it uses the existing hvac wiring and thermostat system. You are not going to blow a circuit breaker turning on the heat strip and microwave at the same time. I also have a plug in heater I use to increase the comfort in the coach in the 45-32 degree temp range. The portable heater can and will trip circuit breakers and the one I have requited 32" free space in front of the heating element so the places I can put it are limited. Your statement that a portable heater warming more than a heat strip takes some looking into. Watts are Watts and to get more wattage turned into heat on a typical RV 10 or 15 amp circuit is difficult to do. The heat strip will pull power from the same hard wired circuit that the AC Compressor uses so no worry about overloading that circuit. My portable heater on the high setting will trip the kitchen circuit breaker in about 10 minutes and instantly on the low setting if anything else on the circuit is switched on. The heat strip is whole house thermostatically controlled so its set and forget. A heat strip, portable electric heat or a combination of both can significantly reduce the reliance on the propane furnace which is a resource that is problematic at best to renew when at the campsite. I will say this the cost of the heat strip has already been paid for by the propane I did not have to buy the month I lived in the coach with temps in the 30-70 degree range. Cooking and heating were both handled by the on board propane tank without refilling it. Think how far I could have stretched that tank with an induction range and convection microwave but that is another story. Everyone reading this understand one thing if the temps drop below freezing your only recourse is the propane furnace or a full or partial coach water system winterization.
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