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Old 03-12-2015, 06:29 PM   #1
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Hot water heater isolation valve set up from factory

Can anyone make heads or tails out of this? This is how it came, I haven't touched a thing except to remove that plastic panel that hides this mess.Click image for larger version

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Old 03-12-2015, 06:31 PM   #2
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The valve on top in the red line is closed, the one in the middle (red/blue) is open and the blue line on the bottom is closed. Nothing's labeled? Any help with this?


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Old 03-12-2015, 06:32 PM   #3
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The three valves are what are referred to as your bypass valves. In the winter time you turn off the cold and hot water line valves, and open the bypass valve (the one that connects the hot and cold water line together)

This way, you hot water heater is bypassed, and you don't have to pump 6 gallons or more of RV antifreeze into it to keep it from freezing up.
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Old 03-12-2015, 06:33 PM   #4
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It is in winterising mode. To put in summer mode, turn bottom and top valves 90 degrees so valve handle lines up with water line, and middle one turn valve 90 degrees so valve is at 90 degrees to water line...see picture below....
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Old 03-12-2015, 06:34 PM   #5
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For normal use, you want the hot and cold line valves open and the bypass valve closed.

In the winterization mode, you do the opposite and close the hot and cold water valves, and open the bypass valve.
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Old 03-12-2015, 06:35 PM   #6
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The current valve setup is bypassing the water heater for winterizing. To place in normal operation mode, you would turn the upper and lower valves to be parallel to the Pex and turn the center one to perpendicular to the vertical pex. So turn each valve 1/4 turn to put in operational mode then in fall turn them all again 1/4 turn to bypass for winterization.
Sorry slow typer.
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Old 03-12-2015, 06:36 PM   #7
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Old 03-12-2015, 06:42 PM   #8
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An extra note here, since it is in winterizing mode, most likely your water heater is empty, make sure that the 120 volt breaker or electric switch for your water heater are off so not to burn the electric element.
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Old 03-12-2015, 06:43 PM   #9
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One more REAL IMPORTANT piece of advice. If you have the water heater bypassed, when you turn on a hot water tap inside the RV, you will get water out of it.........since the cold water line is actually tied into the hot water line, when opening the bypass valve that connects the two lines.

So, if you open the hot water tap and then think that because water is flowing out the hot water tap, there must be water in the hot water heater itself, you'd be incorrect. Remember, the water heater has been bypassed.

Now, if you turn on the electric heating element to the water heater (thinking there is water in the heater), it will burn itself out in a mere matter of seconds.

You need to make sure the hot/cold valves are turned correct for usage, the bypass valve is closed...and there is water inside the water heater. You can usually check for this by flipping up the pressure relief lever on the outside face of the water heater.

EDIT: Fonzie gave the short version and beat me to it. LOL

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Old 03-12-2015, 07:28 PM   #10
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Side note: If you haven't de-winterized yet (run fresh water through your system out the faucets) do so before you switch the valves. Otherwise you most likely will have antifreeze in your water heater. It's non toxic but why have it in there. Just thought I would mention it.
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