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Old 06-23-2015, 11:09 AM   #41
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I thought you said communion
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Old 06-23-2015, 11:37 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by colourful64 View Post
Uhmmmm how do I know if the house is 30 amp should I licking the cable clueless
If you are not comfortable DIY with Electricity (and most aren't! ) call a local electrician and have them wire in a dedicated 50 amp plug to your circuit breaker panel. We had a electrician do this for us and it was $150. We know it's done right and to code.
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Old 06-23-2015, 11:51 AM   #43
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we have a 200 amp service enterance.
installed a 50 amp RV box on the outside of my garage.
my garage runs off a 100 amp circuit breaker to feed the tools, sauna etc.
in my panel in teh garage there is a 100 amp main breaker and a 60 amp GFI for the Sauna, several 15 amp breakers for lights and wall plugs. and one 60 amp for the 50 amp RV outlet.
Since the big guns in the garage are not run at the same time i'm ok.
The code states that the breakers where i live should be over the max load by 20%

when they electricians installed our heat pump in sept 2013 they wired a 30 amp circuit breaker and the max draw on the unit was 28.9. they also used the smaller guage wiring.

it kept blowing the breaker all winter un announced to myself as my wife kept resetting it.

Ensure you use the proper wiring from the panel to the box for your trailer.
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Old 06-23-2015, 12:01 PM   #44
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You will need an RV 120 volt 30 amp receptacle. This is a unique unit. Have it professionally installed. You will be able to directly plug into it.
You can find these at Big Box stores for less than $30.
GE 30 Amp Temporary RV Power Outlet-U013P - The Home Depot
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Old 06-25-2015, 02:41 PM   #45
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1 Air conditioner 30 Amp - 2 air conditioners 50 amp
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Old 06-25-2015, 02:43 PM   #46
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1 air conditioner 30 amp - 2 air conditioners 50 amp
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Old 06-25-2015, 02:56 PM   #47
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Just a suggestion, but if you're putting in a new service for the RV, you might want to spend the extra money to get one that actually has a breaker at the box so you can switch the power off before connecting or disconnecting. I had a 50A box put in and didn't think about that; now I have to go into the garage and flip the breaker before I disconnect the shore power, just to be safe. Connecting is not a problem as the PI EMS provides a delay before it goes hot. Anyway, just a suggestion.
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Old 06-27-2015, 12:22 PM   #48
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Just a suggestion, but if you're putting in a new service for the RV, you might want to spend the extra money to get one that actually has a breaker at the box so you can switch the power off before connecting or disconnecting. I had a 50A box put in and didn't think about that; now I have to go into the garage and flip the breaker before I disconnect the shore power, just to be safe. Connecting is not a problem as the PI EMS provides a delay before it goes hot. Anyway, just a suggestion.
When they installed my central AC for the house they put a plug in with a disconnect. I think you will find code requires it now. If not it is still a good idea. Beats running around to find the breaker.

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Old 06-27-2015, 01:18 PM   #49
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Code only requires it if it's to serve equipment. To ensure power is off before you service it. Still good, though. I'm thinks of replacing my outlet with one that has a disconnect.
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Old 06-27-2015, 01:35 PM   #50
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Got to figure in Cal it may cause cancer that's why cost more. Later RJD
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Old 06-27-2015, 02:09 PM   #51
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Code only requires it if it's to serve equipment. To ensure power is off before you service it. Still good, though. I'm thinks of replacing my outlet with one that has a disconnect.
Isn't a trailer plugged in equipment? Guess it is how you look at it. It makes good sense to have a disconnect handy. All the camping parks I have been to have breakers on site so you can shut off the plug before you plug in your trailer.

Jim
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Old 06-28-2015, 06:11 PM   #52
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Ok we already had the adapter but the actual pops the reader I the garage
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