Keyless Entry lock

[jerryliving]

We have one and it has been replaced twice and we still can't depend on it to work. Don't even try. Afraid that it will not work and lock us out.

[babock]

It would be nice if the people that are having problems with their locks would indicate what brand and model they are having problems with.

I am looking at getting the rvlock 4.0.

[SailorSam20500]

Originally Posted by Brother Les

On the door, the two metal contact points are spring loaded. They push out and contact the points in the door jam when closing the door. Are these spring loaded parts moving in and out with ease? Are the 'connections' inside the door and the inside the door jam clean and snug tight. (NOTE: if you loosen up the contact points in the door jam, one wire is HOT and will ark if touching any metal. Be careful. Shut off battery and shore power when pulling the door jam wires out to check the connections for rust or looseness.)

I think we are talking about different locks. I have an RVLock as noted below. No contact points between door and jam.

For others, both my inside and outside paddles are metal, I assume aluminum. I know the inside is metal based on the grinding I did on it with my Dremmel.

I have one of these: https://www.rvlock.com/collections/f...ry-system-v4-0

[Tombsy]

I have the RVLock for a Class C on my Forester, it also has metal handles inside and out and has been working great. I had to clearance the screen door a touch around the inside handle.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by AquaMan

We were told at the rally, that the keyless locks wouldn't work on our Georgetown, because of the opening. We were already to buy.

Aquaman,have you called "RVLOCK" they are a Different MFG from the Company that was at Goshen Rally? RVLOCK also now has "Trim Plates for Odd/Bastard openings! Youroo!!

[Semperfi24]

To follow up on yesterdays post, I researched my particular lock at home, the box says it is an RVLock, Version 4.0, and it was manufactured in May of 2015. Hope this helps. Just because I had issues doesn't mean others will too, so I want to be fair about my critique and give people as much info as I am able to gather. A long time has passed between May 2015 and Sept 2017, so there is certainly plenty of room for changes and improvements, though I'd have expected a Version 5.0 by now

[Hogq]

I have the RVLOCK Class C/A. It is s self-contained, has its own batteries, and does not have any contact with coach electrical whatsoever.
As part of installing the lock, I did need to use a flat file to widen the door opening, that the lock set fits into, especially on the face parallel and closest to the lock plate in the door jamb. It had the effect of allowing the lock to slide closer to the edge of the door. I also had to slightly unscrew the two t-shaped posts that guide the lock into the sill plate to allow them to engage the sill plate without jamming. I used locktite to secure the t-posts in their "not-quite-tight position". I also adjusted the sill plate so that the lock bolts engaged without hanging up or binding.
The lock works perfectly, locks and unlocks every time, both with the remote and with the keypad. It does have a plastic section where the batteries are, that is used as the grip handle to close the door. The plastic is sturdy, not a problem for me. I hate the idea of shared keying, this lock was worth a tiny bit of fiddling.

[KenandCarol]

Originally Posted by Hogq

I also had to slightly unscrew the two t-shaped posts that guide the lock into the sill plate to allow them to engage the sill plate without jamming. I used locktite to secure the t-posts in their "not-quite-tight position".

Originally Posted by Tombsy

I have the RVLock for a Class C on my Forester, it also has metal handles inside and out and has been working great. I had to clearance the screen door a touch around the inside handle.

I just installed my Class C lock in my 2017 Sunseeker 2250 and it installed easily. I had both these minor interface issues and solved them in the same way. I only had to take of about 1/8" or less from the screen door to eliminate the interference, I used a Dremel tool. So far I am very happy with the operation and the looks.

[b1barnes]

I installed the Bauer lock. After two years, no issues and works fine. Nice to not need to carry a key.

BB

[AquaMan]

Originally Posted by youroo

Aquaman,have you called "RVLOCK" they are a Different MFG from the Company that was at Goshen Rally? RVLOCK also now has "Trim Plates for Odd/Bastard openings! Youroo!!

Good to know. I'll check it out.