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Old 08-30-2017, 09:20 PM   #1
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Keyless Entry lock

Looking to get a keyless entry / keypad for the FR3 and the one on Camping World website has horrible reviews. Anyone recommend a model that fits a 2015 30DS?
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Old 08-30-2017, 09:42 PM   #2
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Rv lock
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Old 08-30-2017, 10:08 PM   #3
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I wanted one too till I saw the price!
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Old 08-30-2017, 11:23 PM   #4
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I installed the key pad version RV Lock on my 2015 30DS. It is supposed to be a fit for class A coaches. It comes with one remote, I added a second. It didn't fit the lock pocket on my door, I had to use a flat file to open up the upper, lower and front edge of the door lock area before the lock would side in to the opening in the door. Also I had to extend the lugs a bit so that the door would close and the lugs would properly engage the lock face. I used red locktite to secure the lugs since they were not firmly screwed in to the lock mechanism all the way.
It was not tough to get things working and the lock works well. The remotes have a nice feel and range.
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Old 08-31-2017, 08:30 AM   #5
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Check out Amazon Prime prices for the electronic keyless locks. That is were we purchased ours with free shipping. We also got $70 off by opening a Amazon Prime credit card. Need a credit card any ways for Amazon Prime purchases so, this was worth it for the RV lock.
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Old 08-31-2017, 09:14 AM   #6
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Check the Bauer website for key-less entry locks. If you find what you want shop around for the best price.

I don't remember the URL for Bauer but if you Google it, it will come up.
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Old 08-31-2017, 09:32 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by gomatthew View Post
Looking to get a keyless entry / keypad for the FR3 and the one on Camping World website has horrible reviews. Anyone recommend a model that fits a 2015 30DS?
Before you buy,wait until just before/during a Holiday! RV Lock seems to run "Special Deals" watch their Web Site or get on their E mail list for "Specials"! Youroo!!
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Old 09-08-2017, 05:12 PM   #8
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X2 on RV lock. Had to dreamel a bit, but fits nicely. And the keypad remote lock is money so don't have to carry keys. Highky recommended. 2018 29DS
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Old 09-08-2017, 05:52 PM   #9
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We have the RVLock brand, v4.0 model and on a scale of 5 I would rate it a 3. Frequently it take 2, 3 or even 4 tries to get it unlocked. I even had it replaced with a new one and it still sticks.
Also the inside piece is plastic; so when you grab the catch to pull the door shut you are grabbing a piece of plastic. Don't know how long it will last.
There are other makes out there and mostly cheaper so if I were to start over I would not go with RVLock.

on edit: if anyone has any recommendations on making this work better I would appreciate the tip.
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Old 09-08-2017, 06:14 PM   #10
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Another vote for RVLock. Our front door works perfectly- unlocks on the first try every time.

Our rear door, I'm noticing it taking 2 and 3 times to unlock. It makes the noise like it is unlocking but doesn't always. I thought it was just me being impatient and pulling on the door before it was fully unlocked. I'll have to check on it a bit more.

Yes the inside piece is plastic. But fulltiming with 2 "not so gentle" kids have proven its durability. We've had the RV lock installed since February 2016.
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Old 09-09-2017, 08:47 PM   #11
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We have the RVLock brand, v4.0 model and on a scale of 5 I would rate it a 3. Frequently it take 2, 3 or even 4 tries to get it unlocked. I even had it replaced with a new one and it still sticks.
Also the inside piece is plastic; so when you grab the catch to pull the door shut you are grabbing a piece of plastic. Don't know how long it will last.
There are other makes out there and mostly cheaper so if I were to start over I would not go with RVLock.

on edit: if anyone has any recommendations on making this work better I would appreciate the tip.


Have you adjusted the striker plate on the door jam! I had to do this on my unit I only had to have a very slight adjustment but the dead bolt now moves freely. I push the striker plate out to provide a little more clearance for the dead bolt.
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Old 09-09-2017, 10:02 PM   #12
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Keyless Entry lock

What exactly isnít working?
Not accepting code?
Dead bolt not moving?

I used to have to give the door a push in, to allow the deadbolt to slide freely.

After adjustment, it works flawlessly.
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Old 09-09-2017, 10:25 PM   #13
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Another vote for RVLock. Our front door works perfectly- unlocks on the first try every time.

Our rear door, I'm noticing it taking 2 and 3 times to unlock. It makes the noise like it is unlocking but doesn't always. I thought it was just me being impatient and pulling on the door before it was fully unlocked. I'll have to check on it a bit more.

Yes the inside piece is plastic. But fulltiming with 2 "not so gentle" kids have proven its durability. We've had the RV lock installed since February 2016.
I had to clean the contact points between the door and door jam, had a little rust.
I just happened to have a extra set of keys in the truck to open the door.

Key pad locks are nice.... until they don't work and the door is 'locked'...
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Old 09-09-2017, 10:29 PM   #14
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We have a v3 version. We generally don't use the fob, rather use the keypad. Frequently we need to enter the code 2-5 times before the lock activates locking or unlocking. When it's quiet, I can hear it work. I have noticed that there is a delay between the last key press and when the lock activates.
Other note, the leading edge of the the inside handle was long enough that it jammed on the screen door. I finally took a dremel and ground off the edge. So that problem has been solved.
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Old 09-09-2017, 10:40 PM   #15
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We have a v3 version. We generally don't use the fob, rather use the keypad. Frequently we need to enter the code 2-5 times before the lock activates locking or flip. When it's quiet, I can hear it work. I have noticed that there is a delay between the last key press and when the lock activates.
Other note, the leading edge of the the inside handle was long enough that it jammed on the screen door. I finally took a dremel and ground off the edge. So that problem has been solved.
Keep a key in your pocket or outside of the unit to where you can unlock the door with it when the unit stops working. Now to find out why the problems. Low voltage by dirty or rusted contacts...? Locking bolt need cleaned or is it binding...? weak activation unit...? One time I had the battery off by the battery disconnect, but I had the RV plugged into shore power and the converter was running the 12v systems, would not unlock the door from the electric pad..., flipped on the battery disconnect switch and the door worked fine. Had our unit for four years and every year had to do something to the electric locks to make it work better.

I don't 'trust' my electric lock any more and have a key outside the unit.
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Old 09-09-2017, 11:03 PM   #16
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Keep a key in your pocket or outside of the unit to where you can unlock the door with it when the unit stops working. Now to find out why the problems. Low voltage by dirty or rusted contacts...? Locking bolt need cleaned or is it binding...? weak activation unit...? One time I had the battery off by the battery disconnect, but I had the RV plugged into shore power and the converter was running the 12v systems, would not unlock the door from the electric pad..., flipped on the battery disconnect switch and the door worked fine. Had our unit for four years and every year had to do something to the electric locks to make it work better.

I don't 'trust' my electric lock any more and have a key outside the unit.
Yup, keys are always outside of the trailer. And we only converted one of the two locks. So I can also gain entry via the second door - had the lock re-keyed on the second door.

Of the issues you raise, I'm not sure any are correct. All contacts I can see are clean and shiny, not surprising on a new lock. Hadn't thought about the converter causing radio interference, it isn't all that far from the lock. I'll try the lock with shore and battery disconnected. Issue is that the lock doesn't activate, when it does, the mechanism slides easily. Most of the time I can hear the lock mechanism work - a quiet zzzzt sound. I'm sure I would hear something if the bolt was binding.

Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 09-09-2017, 11:36 PM   #17
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One time I had the battery off by the battery disconnect, but I had the RV plugged into shore power and the converter was running the 12v systems, would not unlock the door from the electric pad..., flipped on the battery disconnect switch and the door worked fine. Had our unit for four years and every year had to do something to the electric locks to make it work better.
You have the RVLock keyless entry? reason I ask is that they have nothing to do with the 12V system. They run on their own batteries.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:10 AM   #18
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Yup, keys are always outside of the trailer. And we only converted one of the two locks. So I can also gain entry via the second door - had the lock re-keyed on the second door.

Of the issues you raise, I'm not sure any are correct. All contacts I can see are clean and shiny, not surprising on a new lock. Hadn't thought about the converter causing radio interference, it isn't all that far from the lock. I'll try the lock with shore and battery disconnected. Issue is that the lock doesn't activate, when it does, the mechanism slides easily. Most of the time I can hear the lock mechanism work - a quiet zzzzt sound. I'm sure I would hear something if the bolt was binding.

Thanks for the suggestions.
On the door, the two metal contact points are spring loaded. They push out and contact the points in the door jam when closing the door. Are these spring loaded parts moving in and out with ease? Are the 'connections' inside the door and the inside the door jam clean and snug tight. (NOTE: if you loosen up the contact points in the door jam, one wire is HOT and will ark if touching any metal. Be careful. Shut off battery and shore power when pulling the door jam wires out to check the connections for rust or looseness.)
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:24 AM   #19
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We were told at the rally, that the keyless locks wouldn't work on our Georgetown, because of the opening. We were already to buy.
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:42 AM   #20
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Maybe I just got a bad one, but I'll never waste another $300+ on one of those keyless locks. The whole point was being able to go to the pool or something and not need to bring the keys. The lock worked flawlessly for about a week. First try every time it would lock. First try everytime it would unlock. No issues at all. After that, useless. I could unlock it with the remote, but could never ever ever ever lock it unless I used the key, which defeats the whole purpose. If the door was open, worked everytime. Door closed, never worked. I went so far as to remove the striking plate just to see if that was the problem. Didn't work. The lock would never extend if the door was closed. It was WIERD. So now, since I have the keyless combination pad on my truck, I just put the keys in there, and use the keyless entry into the truck to get the keys, and then unlock the trailer. As for the plastic handle on the inside, I was never comfortable with that either, but I will say it was far more durable than I expected, never an issue with that. But having the original handle on the door (metal) does allow you to close it mostly, and then give it a nice, easy, tug to close the door "quietly". With the plastic one, it was just too difficult to do that, you needed a bit of momentum to "slam" the door shut. So for us, it was a gigantic waste of money, and time (constantly trying to tinker with it). Never again


Couldn't tell you which version it is, don't carry it around with me, but it was the "RV Lock" system and it is at least 2 years old
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