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Old 04-09-2018, 11:31 AM   #1
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Low water pressure in bathroom only...

We just finished a trip to the Grand Canyon and the coach operated flawlessly....except for the bathroom.

We used the toilet and faucet a few times while rolling down the road and it worked as it should. Good pressure and toilet filled when the pedal was pressed lightly. Once we set up at our campground and put all the slides out, connected to city water (40 psi and anti siphon attachments used)... we had just a trickle of water out of the faucet and almost nothing out of the toilet. We have perfect water pressure out of the kitchen faucet.

We tried several things...

Turned off city water supply, turned on water pump and tried running from fresh tank but no change.

Disconnected the supply line to the toilet and let the water flow out. No change.

Slides in... no change.

Does anybody have a similar experience? Any suggestions?
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Old 04-09-2018, 11:32 AM   #2
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Almost forgot... it’s a 2018 FR3 30DS.
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Old 04-09-2018, 11:35 AM   #3
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Then most likely debris in water line. Remove your bathroom faucets aerator and clean. If that is the case then you will have to do same for toilet.
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Old 04-09-2018, 11:46 AM   #4
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Fonzie you nailed it! I’ll have to figure out the toilet next but this was definitely the issue with the faucet.
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Old 04-09-2018, 11:50 AM   #5
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If you open low point drains with water in the WH this can easily happen. The WH drains through the cold water side taking with it some of the crud in the bottom of the WH. Much of it runs out the low point drain, but some stays in the water lines. The next time the water lines are charged, the crud is moved along until it is trapped by a filter screen or valve. Always drain the WH before opening the low point drains.
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Old 04-09-2018, 12:03 PM   #6
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It doesn't hurt...

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Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
If you open low point drains with water in the WH this can easily happen. The WH drains through the cold water side taking with it some of the crud in the bottom of the WH. Much of it runs out the low point drain, but some stays in the water lines. The next time the water lines are charged, the crud is moved along until it is trapped by a filter screen or valve. Always drain the WH before opening the low point drains.
It doesn't hurt to always use one of these, too.

You can save a little money with the two-pack which comes without the short flex hose.

Larry
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Old 04-09-2018, 12:09 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by LytesOutFR3 View Post
Attachment 167629

Fonzie you nailed it! I’ll have to figure out the toilet next but this was definitely the issue with the faucet.
When you unscrew the water inlet from the rear of the toilet (Turn OFF the water first to the coach) there is a washer with a screen there too. Probably the same as your faucet
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Old 04-09-2018, 12:23 PM   #8
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Every 6 months I drain the Water Heater, check to see what the anode looks like and use a spray wand on the garden hose to flush all that crud from the anode out. Then it does not end up in your faucet screens or in the one for the toilet.
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Old 04-09-2018, 12:30 PM   #9
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Works perfect now! I unscrewed the back of the toilet and cleaned it out with q-tips... also made a small vacuum attachment and cleaned it out really well.Click image for larger version

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Thanks for the help everyone! You got me on the right track[emoji1360]
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Old 04-09-2018, 12:31 PM   #10
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The first time I used our new camper the same thing happened to me pulled the strainers off and were full of plastic shavings.
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Old 04-09-2018, 01:15 PM   #11
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Or...

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Every 6 months I drain the Water Heater, check to see what the anode looks like and use a spray wand on the garden hose to flush all that crud from the anode out. Then it does not end up in your faucet screens or in the one for the toilet.
When I de-winterize in the spring, I've been known to leave the anode rod out and connect the water line. I turn it on and let it run for a minute or two. This also seems to flush it.

Of course, don't turn the heater on at this time.

Larry
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Old 04-09-2018, 01:16 PM   #12
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Where do I find the anode you mentioned?
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Old 04-09-2018, 01:28 PM   #13
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Anode Rod

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Where do I find the anode you mentioned?
The Anode rod is installed in the hot water heater. It serves two purposes:
  • It is made of magesium (or aluminum) and corrodes preferentially to the hot water tank--like zinc plating on a garbage can
  • It serves as a plug to drain the hot water heater when freezing weather is expected.

Here's a picture.
  1. Turn off the switch which controls propane to the hot water heater
  2. Turn off the switch which controls electricity to the hot water heater
  3. Turn off city water to the heater
On the outside of the unit, there will be a door with louvers or gratings. Behind that door is the hot water heater. You will be looking at the circular end of a cylinder water tank. At the lowest point there will be a plug, looking like the picture above. Use a 1-1/16" socket with ratchet wrench and extender to remove the anode rod.

It will be gradually eaten away as it is sacrificed to protect the tank. When it's down to mostly the thin steel core, replace it.

What clogs the water line is fragments that drop off as it is eaten away (or crud in your fresh water hose because you didn't run it before connecting it to the RV).

Larry
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Old 04-09-2018, 01:31 PM   #14
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LytesOutFR3.....

Do you know what brand of water heater you have?

Atwood or Suburban?

Atwood heaters do not have an anode....only Suburban.
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Old 04-09-2018, 01:37 PM   #15
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If you have a suburban WH, it will be the 1 1/16" hex head in the bottom center of the WH. After removing it, you should check it remaining life as it is a sacrificial rod and reinstall with teflon tape.
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Old 04-09-2018, 07:49 PM   #16
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Take a look at the filter screen on your water pump. Fill your fresh water tank with some good potable water and run the pump for a while. You may be surprised to find more debris coming up to the pump filter.
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Old 04-09-2018, 08:13 PM   #17
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Low water pressure in bathroom only...

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Originally Posted by LytesOutFR3 View Post
Low water pressure in bathroom only...

We used the toilet and faucet a few times while rolling down the road and it worked as it should. Good pressure and toilet filled when the pedal was pressed lightly. Once we set up at our campground and put all the slides out, connected to city water (40 psi and anti siphon attachments used)... we had just a trickle of water out of the faucet and almost nothing out of the toilet. We have perfect water pressure out of the kitchen faucet.
To be pedantic about it, you had low water flow, not low water pressure. Had you been able to glom a pressure gauge onto the faucet or toilet, with no water actually flowing, you would have seen the same 40 psi you would see on the other taps. What was reduced was the flow.

Don't flame me. Didn't mean to annoy anyone.

Larry
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Old 04-09-2018, 08:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC View Post
The Anode rod is installed in the hot water heater. It serves two purposes:
  • It is made of magesium (or aluminum) and corrodes preferentially to the hot water tank--like zinc plating on a garbage can
  • It serves as a plug to drain the hot water heater when freezing weather is expected.

Here's a picture.
  1. Turn off the switch which controls propane to the hot water heater
  2. Turn off the switch which controls electricity to the hot water heater
  3. Turn off city water to the heater
On the outside of the unit, there will be a door with louvers or gratings. Behind that door is the hot water heater. You will be looking at the circular end of a cylinder water tank. At the lowest point there will be a plug, looking like the picture above. Use a 1-1/16" socket with ratchet wrench and extender to remove the anode rod.

It will be gradually eaten away as it is sacrificed to protect the tank. When it's down to mostly the thin steel core, replace it.

What clogs the water line is fragments that drop off as it is eaten away (or crud in your fresh water hose because you didn't run it before connecting it to the RV).

Larry
One more step. After the switches are turned off, and before you remove the anode rod, open a faucet in the RV to depressurize. Else you will get a free bath. Don't ask how I know.
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Old 04-09-2018, 08:53 PM   #19
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I'm afraid if you use a 1-15/16 hex like Flybob suggests, you will disappointed. The size is 1-1/16 inch hex. Use a socket, 4 to 6 inch extension and a ratchet to remove it.
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Old 04-10-2018, 01:07 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
LytesOutFR3.....



Do you know what brand of water heater you have?



Atwood or Suburban?



Atwood heaters do not have an anode....only Suburban.


Yes it’s a suburban...
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