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04-09-2018, 11:31 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 63
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Low water pressure in bathroom only...
We just finished a trip to the Grand Canyon and the coach operated flawlessly....except for the bathroom.
We used the toilet and faucet a few times while rolling down the road and it worked as it should. Good pressure and toilet filled when the pedal was pressed lightly. Once we set up at our campground and put all the slides out, connected to city water (40 psi and anti siphon attachments used)... we had just a trickle of water out of the faucet and almost nothing out of the toilet. We have perfect water pressure out of the kitchen faucet.
We tried several things...
Turned off city water supply, turned on water pump and tried running from fresh tank but no change.
Disconnected the supply line to the toilet and let the water flow out. No change.
Slides in... no change.
Does anybody have a similar experience? Any suggestions?
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04-09-2018, 11:32 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 63
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Almost forgot... it’s a 2018 FR3 30DS.
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04-09-2018, 11:35 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern Ontario
Posts: 4,167
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Then most likely debris in water line. Remove your bathroom faucets aerator and clean. If that is the case then you will have to do same for toilet.
__________________
Fonzie
2011 Rockwood 8319SS with ProPride 3P hitch/GoodYear Marathons/TST TPMS 507
2019 F350 Ruby Red 6.7l diesel 3.31 axle electronic locker
Yamaha 3000iseb generator:Progressive Ind. EMS-HW30C : Eastern Ontario
Nights Camped: 2014 (18) 2015 (18) 2016 (36) 2017 (32) 2018 (42) 2019 (28) 2020 (35)
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04-09-2018, 11:46 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 63
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Fonzie you nailed it! I’ll have to figure out the toilet next but this was definitely the issue with the faucet.
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04-09-2018, 11:50 AM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,300
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If you open low point drains with water in the WH this can easily happen. The WH drains through the cold water side taking with it some of the crud in the bottom of the WH. Much of it runs out the low point drain, but some stays in the water lines. The next time the water lines are charged, the crud is moved along until it is trapped by a filter screen or valve. Always drain the WH before opening the low point drains.
__________________
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
TST Tire Monitors
Honda 2000I + Companion
2 100W solar panels
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04-09-2018, 12:03 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,616
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It doesn't hurt...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob
If you open low point drains with water in the WH this can easily happen. The WH drains through the cold water side taking with it some of the crud in the bottom of the WH. Much of it runs out the low point drain, but some stays in the water lines. The next time the water lines are charged, the crud is moved along until it is trapped by a filter screen or valve. Always drain the WH before opening the low point drains.
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It doesn't hurt to always use one of these, too.
You can save a little money with the two-pack which comes without the short flex hose.
Larry
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04-09-2018, 12:09 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Maurice, LA
Posts: 4,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LytesOutFR3
Attachment 167629
Fonzie you nailed it! I’ll have to figure out the toilet next but this was definitely the issue with the faucet.
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When you unscrew the water inlet from the rear of the toilet (Turn OFF the water first to the coach) there is a washer with a screen there too. Probably the same as your faucet
__________________
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL, Gladiator Qr35 ST235/85R16 Load rating G, TST 507 TPMS w/ Flow-thru Sensors & Repeater, Reese Sidewinder 16K Pin Box, PI EMS HW50C
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CCSB LTZ Diesel, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Turbo Brake activated, 39 gal Aux Tank W/ Fuel Pump transfer, Air Lift Loadlifter 5000 air bags.
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04-09-2018, 12:23 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Leesburg Florida
Posts: 101
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Every 6 months I drain the Water Heater, check to see what the anode looks like and use a spray wand on the garden hose to flush all that crud from the anode out. Then it does not end up in your faucet screens or in the one for the toilet.
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04-09-2018, 12:30 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 63
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Works perfect now! I unscrewed the back of the toilet and cleaned it out with q-tips... also made a small vacuum attachment and cleaned it out really well.
Thanks for the help everyone! You got me on the right track[emoji1360]
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04-09-2018, 12:31 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 38
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The first time I used our new camper the same thing happened to me pulled the strainers off and were full of plastic shavings.
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04-09-2018, 01:15 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,616
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Or...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orider
Every 6 months I drain the Water Heater, check to see what the anode looks like and use a spray wand on the garden hose to flush all that crud from the anode out. Then it does not end up in your faucet screens or in the one for the toilet.
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When I de-winterize in the spring, I've been known to leave the anode rod out and connect the water line. I turn it on and let it run for a minute or two. This also seems to flush it.
Of course, don't turn the heater on at this time.
Larry
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04-09-2018, 01:16 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 63
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Where do I find the anode you mentioned?
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04-09-2018, 01:28 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,616
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Anode Rod
Quote:
Originally Posted by LytesOutFR3
Where do I find the anode you mentioned?
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The Anode rod is installed in the hot water heater. It serves two purposes: - It is made of magesium (or aluminum) and corrodes preferentially to the hot water tank--like zinc plating on a garbage can
- It serves as a plug to drain the hot water heater when freezing weather is expected.
Here's a picture.
- Turn off the switch which controls propane to the hot water heater
- Turn off the switch which controls electricity to the hot water heater
- Turn off city water to the heater
On the outside of the unit, there will be a door with louvers or gratings. Behind that door is the hot water heater. You will be looking at the circular end of a cylinder water tank. At the lowest point there will be a plug, looking like the picture above. Use a 1-1/16" socket with ratchet wrench and extender to remove the anode rod.
It will be gradually eaten away as it is sacrificed to protect the tank. When it's down to mostly the thin steel core, replace it.
What clogs the water line is fragments that drop off as it is eaten away (or crud in your fresh water hose because you didn't run it before connecting it to the RV).
Larry
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04-09-2018, 01:31 PM
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#14
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Kanadian Kamper
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 8,185
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LytesOutFR3.....
Do you know what brand of water heater you have?
Atwood or Suburban?
Atwood heaters do not have an anode....only Suburban.
__________________
Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S-CD, nicely modified and carried by a 2017 Ford E450 Sport
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count, pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain
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04-09-2018, 01:37 PM
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#15
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 15,300
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If you have a suburban WH, it will be the 1 1/16" hex head in the bottom center of the WH. After removing it, you should check it remaining life as it is a sacrificial rod and reinstall with teflon tape.
__________________
2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
TST Tire Monitors
Honda 2000I + Companion
2 100W solar panels
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04-09-2018, 07:49 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 852
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Take a look at the filter screen on your water pump. Fill your fresh water tank with some good potable water and run the pump for a while. You may be surprised to find more debris coming up to the pump filter.
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04-09-2018, 08:13 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 9,616
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Low water pressure in bathroom only...
Quote:
Originally Posted by LytesOutFR3
Low water pressure in bathroom only...
We used the toilet and faucet a few times while rolling down the road and it worked as it should. Good pressure and toilet filled when the pedal was pressed lightly. Once we set up at our campground and put all the slides out, connected to city water (40 psi and anti siphon attachments used)... we had just a trickle of water out of the faucet and almost nothing out of the toilet. We have perfect water pressure out of the kitchen faucet.
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To be pedantic about it, you had low water flow, not low water pressure. Had you been able to glom a pressure gauge onto the faucet or toilet, with no water actually flowing, you would have seen the same 40 psi you would see on the other taps. What was reduced was the flow.
Don't flame me. Didn't mean to annoy anyone.
Larry
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04-09-2018, 08:37 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry-NC
The Anode rod is installed in the hot water heater. It serves two purposes: - It is made of magesium (or aluminum) and corrodes preferentially to the hot water tank--like zinc plating on a garbage can
- It serves as a plug to drain the hot water heater when freezing weather is expected.
Here's a picture.
- Turn off the switch which controls propane to the hot water heater
- Turn off the switch which controls electricity to the hot water heater
- Turn off city water to the heater
On the outside of the unit, there will be a door with louvers or gratings. Behind that door is the hot water heater. You will be looking at the circular end of a cylinder water tank. At the lowest point there will be a plug, looking like the picture above. Use a 1-1/16" socket with ratchet wrench and extender to remove the anode rod.
It will be gradually eaten away as it is sacrificed to protect the tank. When it's down to mostly the thin steel core, replace it.
What clogs the water line is fragments that drop off as it is eaten away (or crud in your fresh water hose because you didn't run it before connecting it to the RV).
Larry
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One more step. After the switches are turned off, and before you remove the anode rod, open a faucet in the RV to depressurize. Else you will get a free bath. Don't ask how I know.
__________________
2009 FreeLander - Retired
2015 FR3 30DS - Retired
2023 Sunseeker 2440DS
Towing 2016 Chevy Sonic LT
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04-09-2018, 08:53 PM
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#19
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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I'm afraid if you use a 1-15/16 hex like Flybob suggests, you will disappointed. The size is 1-1/16 inch hex. Use a socket, 4 to 6 inch extension and a ratchet to remove it.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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04-10-2018, 01:07 AM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenandterry
LytesOutFR3.....
Do you know what brand of water heater you have?
Atwood or Suburban?
Atwood heaters do not have an anode....only Suburban.
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Yes it’s a suburban...
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