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Old 02-09-2014, 10:26 AM   #21
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Tomorrow I'm getting my propane refilled, so I'll know exactly how much I used in two weeks. If the gauge is close to correct and I've used ~16 gallons in two weeks, that's just over a gallon a day, running it every night. Of course, my nights have been generally in the high 40's, not the 20's.

The first three months I had my FR3 I didn't run the furnace at all. I had the propane filled after that time and I'd used about 12 gallons. However, I had electric bills of ~$75, $75, and $150 for the three months. On that last one I was at a different park than the first two and I think they gouged me.

At this park I started using the furnace every night for heating. Used about 13 gallons in a month (~$60) and had an electric bill of $38.

Barbara
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Old 02-09-2014, 11:30 AM   #22
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Interesting discussion but I would think I might try a totally different approach. In brief: consider connecting a 12v hour meter to the furnace, probably at the solenoid. Divide the number of BTUs in a gallon of propane by the BTU output for your furnace. You now know the number of hours your furnace will run on one gallon of propane. Decide how many gallons of your actual tank capacity to allocate to heating, leaving yourself sufficient reserve for other appliances you are running on gas. Connect the dots.... Note that this method should allow you to determine pretty accurately how much of your heat allocated gas you have used and that it is independent of things such as where the thermostat is set, what the outside temperature is and how many times Little Johnny left the door hanging open.
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:59 AM   #23
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One thing I started thinking about is that heat loss goes as the fourth power of the temperature difference (vaguely remembered from physics class, then confirmed online). So, the difference between what temperature we're trying to keep the rig at, and the outside temperature, is an important factor (Duh). Anyway, I've started creeping the thermostat down one degree each night. Was at 70; now at 66. I'll probably stop at 65.

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Old 02-10-2014, 10:01 AM   #24
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One thing I started thinking about is that heat loss goes as the fourth power of the temperature difference (vaguely remembered from physics class, then confirmed online). So, the difference between what temperature we're trying to keep the rig at, and the outside temperature, is an important factor (Duh). Anyway, I've started creeping the thermostat down one degree each night. Was at 70; now at 66. I'll probably stop at 65.

B
Don't be like a (Tight) friend of mine,he kept his place at 33degF,said that was plenty,32degF is freezing! Youroo!!
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:17 AM   #25
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Propane Facts: Btu per gal: 91,500, Lbs per Gal: 4.24. 20# cyl holds approx 5gal (depends on who filled it) so a 30,000 btu furnace would run full bore approx 15 hours on a 20 less if water heater and fridge more if stat turned down (your usage may vary) On mounted tanks take 80% of the WC (water capacity) off of the data tag and that will be your LP capacity.
Hope this helps
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:22 PM   #26
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Youroo, Don't worry... I hate being cold...

Okay, I got my propane refilled today. In 14 days I used 15.6 gallons. At $4.2 a gallon, plus tax, that makes $5 a day... Hmmm... kind of expensive. I've moved to lowering my thermostat at night and heating with my electric heater in the evening before bed. I don't like to use the electric heater at night because it only heats the bedroom, and I threw a breaker when I tried to plug in two. Let's see what the next two weeks brings with my new plan.

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Old 02-10-2014, 09:06 PM   #27
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[QUOTE= 20# cyl holds approx 5gal (depends on who filled it) so a 30,000 btu furnace would run full bore approx 15 hours on a 20 less if water heater and fridge more if stat turned down (your usage may vary) On mounted tanks take 80% of the WC (water capacity) off of the data tag and that will be your LP capacity.
Hope this helps[/QUOTE]

Thanks Gasman - So a 5 Gallon LP tank would run 15 Hours on full bore, which we know we won't run all the time. The FR3 has a 24 gallon tank, so that would be 72 hours... that would be 3 days

Something isn't adding up. We know it will run about 2-3 weeks on a 24 gallon tank.

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Old 02-10-2014, 09:45 PM   #28
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I don't like to use the electric heater at night because it only heats the bedroom, and I threw a breaker when I tried to plug in two.
We had the same problem all the outlet in the trailer were on one breaker. I was able to unplug the water heater's electric side. I then used the outlet for the WH to run a 2nd electric heater. I ran the WH on propane. If you have a 15 or 20 amp outlet at the outside post you might be able to run an extension cord into your unit to run the 2nd heater. Hope you can get the electric side sorted out. I plan to run an outlet from the AC breaker to a new outlet this will allow me to run 2nd electric heater with out using the WH plug. I will still keep the WH on LP so my total amps are below 30.
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Old 02-11-2014, 08:48 AM   #29
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Just remember all of your gas loads are intermitant so the example I quoted would be full bore 24/7 normal useage will be a lot longer
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Old 12-29-2014, 11:57 PM   #30
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Any body know? What is this and why is it hot / warm to the touch?

LP valve is off, coach is parked and plugged in to shore power. There are only four wires that go to the LP tank. Two sense the level. This must be a shut off solenoid? But what inside controls it?

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Old 12-30-2014, 04:44 AM   #31
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Youroo, Don't worry... I hate being cold...

Okay, I got my propane refilled today. In 14 days I used 15.6 gallons. At $4.2 a gallon, plus tax, that makes $5 a day... Hmmm... kind of expensive. I've moved to lowering my thermostat at night and heating with my electric heater in the evening before bed. I don't like to use the electric heater at night because it only heats the bedroom, and I threw a breaker when I tried to plug in two. Let's see what the next two weeks brings with my new plan.

Barbara
Barbara, what you can do is plug in an extension cord to your 20 amp plug in at the pedestal. I bring the other end into the trailer at the bottom of the slide sweep on the side bottom corner. Then plug in your second heater so it won't be running off your breaker panel. I have seen people add a plug end in the wall and plug into that also, but bringing in an extension cord at the bottom of the sweep worked for me. As much as I need it. That gives me 3 heaters with the fireplace as one, and I don't trip my 30 amp at the panel or pedestal. I use two ceramic 1500 watt heaters. You should stay toasty warm. Plug one into your RV outlet and the other to the extension cord. Hope that helps...
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:23 AM   #32
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Technorick that shut off is usually connected to your gas detector. The thought is if the detector trips it shuts off the supply. They can sometimes be a nuisance. Its warm because it has power (12v) to it 24/7. it is a normally closed valve meaning as long as there is power its open, no power and it will spring closed. Hope this helps
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Old 12-30-2014, 07:17 PM   #33
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Seems like an easy point of failure . especially if not plugged in to shore I suppose it would eventually drain the coach batteries if the coach mains were not turned off.

I'm going to find the fuse for that. I think it may be better while in storage for the winter that it's off. Runs really hot for a part that's located on the LP tank! I'll tape the fuse to the steering wheel to remind me it's out.

I could shut off the coach batteries but want the charger to keep them energized. It's 22 degrees here now.

My TT had a dumb LP sensor with a battery in it. No fancy electric shut off. Interesting to know.
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