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Old 08-02-2016, 04:38 PM   #11
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That's normal, the inside switch is for propane operation only. The little switch on your heater is for electric. Make sure it is off if you plan on emptying your water heater. The element burns up in seconds without water.
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Old 08-02-2016, 05:19 PM   #12
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Your switch to turn on your Propane/dsi is probably not the one circled. That may be to your grey water tanks to keep them from freezing. Can you show us the whole panel as the actual water heater switch(s) are usually to the left of the tank heater switch(s)

As you said, the PDI's usually are poor in this regard concerning Suburban water heaters. That is why we have a very detailed FAQ on them in this link below. It covers it all pretty much with several pics.

Suburban's electric switch and much more
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Old 08-02-2016, 05:47 PM   #13
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Yeah circled the wrong switch there...

Everything is absolutely clear now and ready to go! Thanks folks!
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Old 08-02-2016, 06:23 PM   #14
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See, the ForestRiverForum PDI wasn't that bad! :-) Check back in if you have issues. Tons of knowledgeable people on this forum. Welcome to the clan!
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Old 08-03-2016, 12:42 PM   #15
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To check if your tank is full. Open the pressure relief valve. If it is full water should spray out. Also it is a good thing to open the relief valve prior to removing anode rod. Otherwise you will wear a lot of water.
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:09 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob View Post
This should have been covered under PDI, but you have come to the right place for answers when PDI doesn't cover it..
How do I fill the water heater?
With city water or water pump on ( not both) open bypass valve (Brass valve near top of water heater) until some water comes out.
How do I know it is filled? Water comes out
We have the Suburban SW12DE, that according to Suburban's manual runs on LP and 120V. How do I properly start using it?
Then turn on switch in lower left corner of your pic ( Circled) for 120V AC mode. For LP use switch inside RV
And where is the infamous anode and how do I replace, and with what part number?
Anode rod is just to the right of the black switch you have circled. Looks like a large NUT. 1 1/16" wrench required to remove. Available at almost any RV store

Can someone please explain what the 3 valves are (see pic) and the 2 switches and how they work in conjunction?
These are bypass valves for winterizing. The top and bottom one need to be parallel to the Pex tubing and the middle one needs to be perpendicular to the pex when in service mode. To winterize just move each one to the other position . The tank heater switch is for a pad that heats the water tank to prevent freezing. Nothing to do with water heater. Do not use water pump when on city water.

Sorry for all the questions, both CW walk-though "coordinator" and sales guy worthless...

PS I flushed the system, no water in fresh tank now, and hooked up to city. Propane is 3/4 and open, 30AMP connected...
Why is propane 3/4 open Should be open all the way or closed all the way.

FlyBob covers it pretty well. I run all hot water faucets to clear out all air. That avoids opening the pressure relief valve and getting water everywhere. Especially nice when it's cold out. Just GOT TO BE SURE THERE IS WATER IN THE WH, BEFORE YOU SWITCH ON THE 120 AC. IN AN EMPTY TANK THE ELECTRIC HEATING ELEMENT WILL FRY IN LESS THAN THE TIME IT TAKES TO REALIZE YOUR MISTAKE.

Also, I always keep water in the FW tank. At least some. It avoids any chance of running the pump dry. And always turns out to be handy.
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:12 PM   #17
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To check if your tank is full. Open the pressure relief valve. If it is full water should spray out. Also it is a good thing to open the relief valve prior to removing anode rod. Otherwise you will wear a lot of water.
Anode rod lasts a while. Check it seasonally as you flush the white/gray crap out of the tank, at least once a year.
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Old 08-03-2016, 02:16 PM   #18
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That's normal, the inside switch is for propane operation only. The little switch on your heater is for electric. Make sure it is off if you plan on emptying your water heater. The element burns up in seconds without water.

Nice feature in our new 2017 Sandstorm TH. Seems like the divisions of FR could do more to standardize. OURS HAS AN ELICTRIC WH switch next to the Gas WH switch as well as the on off switch on the heater it self.
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Old 08-03-2016, 03:23 PM   #19
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Tom48 the only problem with only opening up faucets is if you have the bypass valves incorrectly set, like in the photo. You won't know if the tank is full or not. Also opening the valve I have found lets air out of the tank that faucet don't always do. Just my 2 cents.
As everyone has said the critical thing is to make sure there is water in the hot water tank before turning on those switches.
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Old 08-03-2016, 10:43 PM   #20
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Warm vs HOT Water

When all three of your water valves are set parallel to the tubing as it appears in your photo, you will get HOT water mixed with Cold bypass water yielding lousy Warm water. Closing the bypass by putting valve 2 perpendicular to the tubing will restore HOT water. Our PDI was way too fast and my first experience winterizing and dewinterizing was quite confusing. I got great help on this forum and am now a regular reader. Thanks.
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