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Old 08-02-2016, 03:22 PM   #1
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Newbie Water Heater Question

Just took delivery of our new 2015 28DS.

Prepping for our maiden voyage to the Florida Keys.

How do I fill the water heater? How do I know it is filled? We have the Suburban SW12DE, that according to Suburban's manual runs on LP and 120V. How do I properly start using it? And where is the infamous anode and how do I replace, and with what part number?

Can someone please explain what the 3 valves are (see pic) and the 2 switches and how they work in conjunction?

Sorry for all the questions, both CW walk-though "coordinator" and sales guy worthless...

PS I flushed the system, no water in fresh tank now, and hooked up to city. Propane is 3/4 and open, 30AMP connected...
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:32 PM   #2
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This should have been covered under PDI, but you have come to the right place for answers when PDI doesn't cover it..
How do I fill the water heater?
With city water or water pump on ( not both) open bypass valve (Brass valve near top of water heater) until some water comes out.
How do I know it is filled? Water comes out
We have the Suburban SW12DE, that according to Suburban's manual runs on LP and 120V. How do I properly start using it?
Then turn on switch in lower left corner of your pic ( Circled) for 120V AC mode. For LP use switch inside RV
And where is the infamous anode and how do I replace, and with what part number?
Anode rod is just to the right of the black switch you have circled. Looks like a large NUT. 1 1/16" wrench required to remove. Available at almost any RV store

Can someone please explain what the 3 valves are (see pic) and the 2 switches and how they work in conjunction?
These are bypass valves for winterizing. The top and bottom one need to be parallel to the Pex tubing and the middle one needs to be perpendicular to the pex when in service mode. To winterize just move each one to the other position . The tank heater switch is for a pad that heats the water tank to prevent freezing. Nothing to do with water heater. Do not use water pump when on city water.

Sorry for all the questions, both CW walk-though "coordinator" and sales guy worthless...

PS I flushed the system, no water in fresh tank now, and hooked up to city. Propane is 3/4 and open, 30AMP connected...
Why is propane 3/4 open Should be open all the way or closed all the way.
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:32 PM   #3
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Nice when pic are included. if those are quarter turn valves the one labeled 2 should be shut valve handle across the pipe the other two are correct. either use city water or water from your tank, open hot water faucets in unit. and open the water heater relief valve until water comes out the valve. run the rest of the air out of the system thru the faucets.

The pic showing tank heat is the heating pads for your holding tanks and has nothing to do with the water heater

The bottom pic is the switch that has to be in the on position for your water heater to run on 110V electric.

If the anode is installed it will look like a pipe plug somewhere on the bottom portion of your tank. I hope this helps
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:34 PM   #4
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Flybob is faster then me lol
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchRv View Post
Just took delivery of our new 2015 28DS.

Prepping for our maiden voyage to the Florida Keys.

How do I fill the water heater? [I filled mine this morning by attaching a hose to the city water fill and to a faucet. I opened the pressure relief valve and turned in the water.] How do I know it is filled? [I knew mine was full when the pressurized water sprayed out of the pressure relief valve. ] We have the Suburban SW12DE, that according to Suburban's manual runs on LP and 120V. How do I properly start using it? [Fill it as above and turn on a switch (see below for more explanation.] And where is the infamous anode [It's the plug looking thing front/bottom/center.] and how do I replace [You don't have to replace it if it's good.], and with what part number? [You don't need a part number. Get an anode rod for a Suburban water heater.]

PS I flushed the system, no water in fresh tank now, and hooked up to city. Propane is 3/4 and open, 30AMP connected...
More in my next post. I just know some other member is typing all these answers as I type!
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:41 PM   #6
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Thank you FlyBob and Seadogand Mr. Dan! That's very clear!

Winterizing probably not needed in South Florida. Do you use valve '2' for anything else than that?

(FlyBob, Propane is filled 3/4 I meant, with valves open...)
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:42 PM   #7
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See.............. I knew it. I hate being old and slow!
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:46 PM   #8
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Agree with previous posters. Just make sure your WH is full before turning on the switch located on the water heater which will energize the water heater electric element. When the tank is full, turn on that switch and double check the breaker in your electrical panel to make sure the water heater breaker is on.

Also know that you can run the electric WH element and the propane WH system at the same time for "quick recovery" when taking showers!
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Old 08-02-2016, 03:54 PM   #9
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Ok!

So you can run LP and 120V at the same time. That explains the sparking every 15 seconds, even with LP turned off... Will that sparking go on forever?
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Old 08-02-2016, 04:20 PM   #10
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It seems that when I turn on the electric switch at the WH, with the switch at the convenience center turned off, it does give me hot water, and no sparking from the ignition device at the WH.
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