Over cab bed not lowering

[rogernsuzy]

The overcab bed in our fr3 will not lower. It makes a noise when the the switch is placed on raise. I’ve checked the 10amp fuse in the battery compartment.

Please help.

[leisurelarry]

Have you pulled it down from the magnets?

[rogernsuzy]

What magnets?

[leisurelarry]

My over cab bed is held to the ceiling with two magnets which are at each front corner of the bed. When you pull it down from the magnets, it drops a few inches and then I lower it with the switch.

[rk06382]

Originally Posted by rogernsuzy

The overcab bed in our fr3 will not lower. It makes a noise when the the switch is placed on raise. I’ve checked the 10amp fuse in the battery compartment.

Please help.

Originally Posted by leisurelarry

My over cab bed is held to the ceiling with two magnets which are at each front corner of the bed. When you pull it down from the magnets, it drops a few inches and then I lower it with the switch.

2017 and newer FR3s have electromagnetic latches instead of magnets.

I would check the wires on the back of the bunk switch. I had a loose wire on mine when it was new.

[rwburns]

mine would not lower on the front track but discovered a screw loose (which I have been told before that I have), but seriously, a loose screw was preventing it from lowering

[Old Oregoner]

There's a switch right at the steps that disables the bunk

[Capt6pak]

mine did the same, blew the fire when lowing. the found a shorted out actuator, replaced it and no more issues

[RoninLadybug]

Originally Posted by Capt6pak

mine did the same, blew the fire when lowing. the found a shorted out actuator, replaced it and no more issues

I think I am experiencing the same issue. I replaced the fuse it it blew instantly.
On the driver side, the shaft that extends the bed seems to be stuck in the retract position whereas the passenger side appears extended. How did you determine the problem was the actuator and not the motor and how did you go about fixing it?

[colourful64]

Check on the edges of the bed where it bends.. is your screw jammed agains the metal ledge...

[colourful64]

The slider on the hinge has screws that are two short! They bend and twist and jam up on the metal ledge ... then the fuse blows... forest river works very hard to ensure they use the cheapest materials and use all the short cuts

[RoninLadybug]

Originally Posted by RoninLadybug

I think I am experiencing the same issue. I replaced the fuse it it blew instantly.
On the driver side, the shaft that extends the bed seems to be stuck in the retract position whereas the passenger side appears extended. How did you determine the problem was the actuator and not the motor and how did you go about fixing it?

Comparing the two images, the one on the left (driver side) appears retracted while the right appears extended. Is there a way to identify is the cause is by the actuator or the motor itself?

[RoninLadybug]

I found the reason why my bunk would not raise and the fuse blowing. Somehow the actuator wiring got tangled up. It seems there was a plastic track that held the wiring was caught somehow.

The replacement part is:
Progressive Automations Linear Actuator Stroke Size 8", Force 150 lbs, Speed 0.37"/sec - 12 VDC.

To access the actuator I did the following:
- Gently removed the crown molding strip attached to the ceiling.
- Remove four, 4 inch screws that connect the shelf housing from the ceiling.

To replace the actuator:
- Spliced the old wires coming from the actuator (made note of which color connects to the other actuator wire in my case (Black to green, Red to Yellow).
-Wired replacement actuator to the other actuator.
-Tested actuator to ensure it was connected properly.
-Extended the actuator to full length.
-Removed malfunctioning actuator by pulling clip pins out.
-Mounted new actuator (had to shorten the length of the actuator by pressing the "raise button: by pushing in the clip pins.

[edm]

Thanks for the update and the good info.

[jalarrieu]

Originally Posted by RoninLadybug

I found the reason why my bunk would not raise and the fuse blowing. Somehow the actuator wiring got tangled up. It seems there was a plastic track that held the wiring was caught somehow.



The replacement part is:

Progressive Automations Linear Actuator Stroke Size 8", Force 150 lbs, Speed 0.37"/sec - 12 VDC.



To access the actuator I did the following:

- Gently removed the crown molding strip attached to the ceiling.

- Remove four, 4 inch screws that connect the shelf housing from the ceiling.



To replace the actuator:

- Spliced the old wires coming from the actuator (made note of which color connects to the other actuator wire in my case (Black to green, Red to Yellow).

-Wired replacement actuator to the other actuator.

-Tested actuator to ensure it was connected properly.

-Extended the actuator to full length.

-Removed malfunctioning actuator by pulling clip pins out.

-Mounted new actuator (had to shorten the length of the actuator by pressing the "raise button: by pushing in the clip pins.

Good afternoon,

I had the same issue and your post helped out a lot. Thanks. When I took off self housing, I noticed that all the wires going to outside running lights up top were slightly burnt. Do you remember if yours looked the same?

[RoninLadybug]

Originally Posted by jalarrieu

Good afternoon,

I had the same issue and your post helped out a lot. Thanks. When I took off self housing, I noticed that all the wires going to outside running lights up top were slightly burnt. Do you remember if yours looked the same?
Attachment 204762Attachment 204763

I didn't look closely at the other wiring when I had it open. From your photos it looks like the burn may be caused from the tool they used to fuse the heat shrink seal and wires together.

[PeteAndEd]

Originally Posted by rogernsuzy

The overcab bed in our fr3 will not lower. It makes a noise when the the switch is placed on raise. I’ve checked the 10amp fuse in the battery compartment.

Please help.

So... what happens when you the switch is placed in the lower position? Any noise?

In our 2015 30DS, our bunk would only move so very slowly down and we had to "help" it back up by pushing. Turned out the motor on the right was dead. I unscrewed the bunk board, removed it and was then able to get at it and unpin the motor/shaft (from top and bottom), take it out, replace it (had to splice the 2 wires to the old motor wires) and put it back in without having to take any molding off. It works like day 1 again. ;-)

Good luck.

[bubbles]

Originally Posted by jalarrieu

Good afternoon,

I had the same issue and your post helped out a lot. Thanks. When I took off self housing, I noticed that all the wires going to outside running lights up top were slightly burnt. Do you remember if yours looked the same?
Attachment 204762Attachment 204763

Those are environmental splices and it looks like someone just used their cigarette lighter to shrink instead of the applicable heat gun. Wires not burnt just insulation a little singed and slightly melted. shouldn't cause an issue though.

[wp1130_2000]

Add another to the list...just took mine all apart and ordered a new actuator. The bracket that holds the top of the passenger actuator was only on by one bolt an no nut. The other bolt and nut was gone. The upper actuator bracket on the drivers side was loose and moving around. What a mess.