Powered Mirrors Installed
I've completed upgrading my mirrors to powered/heated. Several people seem interested so I thought I'd add to this related post. I'd hinted about the mirrors in a post about the LED lights but didn't want to hijack that thread.
When I bought my 2015 FR3 30DS, I contacted Forest River for the part number of the stock mirrors and was told the left and right mirrors together were Velvac 713854. I then asked Velvac for the same style head and mount that would be powered/heated and was told 713800 was the complete kit with left head, right head, control panel, left cable, and right cable. I ordered the kit from velvacmirrors.com who had the best price.
The three biggest challenges for me were 1) where to mount the control panel, 2) where to pick up power, and 3) how big of a hole I needed to drill through the side of the FR3.
1) Picture attached (if I do it right) shows I chose a spot on the side of the console to the left of the driver. The jack panel is very shallow and didn't interfere. The panel cut easily. Rather than use the provided template, I just held the panel against the plastic and used a permanent marker. Made space for the control and the heater switch larger. Pilot holes for the mounting screws. Two 3/8" drill holes in opposite corners then a key hole saw for the panel components. (The switch to the left of the mirror panel is an ICC switch.)
2) In the process of looking for the brake tow controller connection, I realized that it would have +12v and ground adequate enough for the 10 amp heaters. (I was looking for the trailer connector to connect the brake signal to the trailer proportional pin such that I could get the high stop on my toad a brake signal. A discussion of another day.) Mine came with a matching molex connector and pig tail that was easy to determine the +12v and ground and to connect to.
3) The mirror heads have a connector up inside the mount and then a short cable to a larger connector and a grommet in the middle of the cable. But to run this cable through the wall of the FR3 would require a 1.5" whole or an extractor tool to remove the pins from the connector. The left and right cables came with the pins installed on the mirror side but not mounted in the molex connector. Made sure that with those pins through the wall about 3" would leave enough cable, particularly for the right side, to reach the controller. Room to spare. So I needed only a 3/8" hole to run the pins through. The intermediate cable with the grommet fit nicely in the mirror mount. Then installing the molex connector, checked once, twice, thrice before pushing them in - they go one way only without a proper extractor tool.
Other little tidbits. I removed the driver seat to work under the dash. Made the job a lot easier. Once I routed the wires under the dash and through the holes, I siliconed up the hole and wires. Gained access to the left console by removing the cup holder, the jack controller, and the light panel. The gasket for the mirror was better stuck on the FR3 than the mirrors because of the wires sticking out of the side. Finished with silicone around the mount/FR3 interface.
2015 FR3 30DS
2010 Ford Escape Toad