Question specific to fr3s with solar

colourful64 · 02-25-2018, 03:15 AM

Just wondering if the flexible solar panels are as good as the hard encased panels.

Summer2Go · 02-25-2018, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by colourful64

Just wondering if the flexible solar panels are as good as the hard encased panels.

I put them on my Roo. They may turn out to be a little less efficient than the framed ones, I just don’t know yet. The installation was a lot easier for me, and the ‘footprint’ left behind on my roof isn’t that much of a big deal. I hopefully have extra wattage on my roof by getting larger and more panels to compensate.

Skyliner · 02-25-2018, 10:14 AM

No, they aren't for three reasons.

First is that the flexible design,by itself, makes them less efficient.

The second reason is that they are typically mounted directly on the roof and with no air gap between the panel and roof as in a traditional non-flexible panel, the panel heats up more which reduces efficiency even more.

The third reason is that you can't tilt them in winter months to maximize reduced sun exposure. Although I have tilt panels on my solar non-flexible panels, I no longer tilt them because it is too much of a hassle.

With that said, flexible panels are a good option and you can easily overcome the power loss with their drawbacks simply by throwing on an extra panel.

Abendage · 03-05-2018, 04:09 PM

I'm installing (4) 100 watt flexible panels on the roof of my Mini Lite. The roof construction of the Mini Lite just doesn't allow for rigid panel installation. Well, not without building some monstrosity of a frame system.

I've had rigid panels on my previous travel trailers, so we'll see how these perform, but I'm feeling pretty optimistic about them and really like the idea of them being flush on the roof and how light they are. The wind profile of them is so small its not even worth mentioning.

I live and camp in Colorado, so our ambient temps when camping rarely get up to 80 degrees, usually in the 60s and 70s, so I'm hoping that helps the temperature efficiency side of things. May not though as we're also closer to the sun.

We'll see, but I'm sure they'll work good enough for our purposes.

colourful64 · 03-08-2018, 03:33 PM

So if you have an FR3 with solar.... I'd like to pick your brain...

Whays your set up? Converter? Gage of wires? Where did you pull the wires from the roof to the batteries? Wheres you controller?

Please ... I'm interested in FR3 info only... Trying to do some homework

Desert Kicker · 03-08-2018, 08:01 PM

I have a 2015 FR3 30-DS.

I put 200 Watts on the roof using a 200-Watt kit utilizing two 100-watt flex panels from Go Power. The 10-gauge wires were routed through the roof using a roof fixture made for the purpose to the ceiling of the entry door closet such that I was able to install a disconnect and then the Go Power PWM-30 control panel in the space above the radio. I then routed the 10-gauge wires to the batteries through the floor of the entry door closet.

From the batteries I used the Go Power DC Install Kit with 4-gauge wires to install a Go Power 1000-watt pure sine inverter inside the entry door closet and then ran 110V to two 15A outlets above the kitchen sink.

I did the installation this way primarily to keep my batteries charged and to be able run an ice maker or Instapot without having to run the generator. I primarily boon dock and don't use the televisions or microwave very often. My setup works for my purposes; however, running anything off of the inverter for more than 4-hours will start discharging the batteries too much, even in direct sunlight.

My installation did require two of us for the wire routing and roof preparation, but it was pretty straight forward using the instructions in the Go Power kits.

colourful64 · 03-08-2018, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Desert Kicker

I have a 2015 FR3 30-DS.

I put 200 Watts on the roof using a 200-Watt kit utilizing two 100-watt flex panels from Go Power. The 10-gauge wires were routed through the roof using a roof fixture made for the purpose to the ceiling of the entry door closet such that I was able to install a disconnect and then the Go Power PWM-30 control panel in the space above the radio. I then routed the 10-gauge wires to the batteries through the floor of the entry door closet.

From the batteries I used the Go Power DC Install Kit with 4-gauge wires to install a Go Power 1000-watt pure sine inverter inside the entry door closet and then ran 110V to two 15A outlets above the kitchen sink.

I did the installation this way primarily to keep my batteries charged and to be able run an ice maker or Instapot without having to run the generator. I primarily boon dock and don't use the televisions or microwave very often. My setup works for my purposes; however, running anything off of the inverter for more than 4-hours will start discharging the batteries too much, even in direct sunlight.

My installation did require two of us for the wire routing and roof preparation, but it was pretty straight forward using the instructions in the Go Power kits.

Beautiful. Thank you so much for all the info

Desert Kicker · 03-09-2018, 12:17 PM

After talking with my son, who helped with the installation, I re-checked the wiring to my Inverter. The cables are 6-gauge, not 4-gauge as stated in my original response. I was going to use 4-gauge, but decided against it because my Inverter is located less than 10-ft from the batteries.

**wmtire** · 03-12-2018, 11:59 AM

2 similar threads merged by site team.

KansasFR3 · 03-13-2018, 12:51 PM

We installed 720w (4x180w Grape Solar rigid panels) on our 2015 30DS. We used the closet corner by the door to route the 48v from the roof to the storage bin next to the batteries. In there, I mounted a sub-panel with our Midnite solar controller along with the Magnum charger/inverter. I had to replace the factory 30 amp cord with a larger gauge (8ga I think). This way the 30 amp comes in the back, routes up to the inverter, then back to the power distribution panel in the aft closet. Its close to 100ft, hence upgrading that wiring. We installed 2 panels in series on each side of the RV, just forward of the AC unit. Works out perfect. We had to build a frame that attaches to 3 of the aluminum frames under the roof (4ft centers). I have some pictures floating around in the forum somewhere.

colourful64 · 03-13-2018, 05:21 PM

That you kansas

rk06382 · 03-13-2018, 09:15 PM

I plan to install a complete system this spring.

One: Battery bank
Double the battery bank. Mount a 2nd battery rack next to the original.
See KansasFR3's design: http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f232/battery-tray-for-additional-batteries-149132.html

Two: 2200 Watt Pure Sine Inverter/Charger
http://samlexsolar.com/rv-power-products/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=581
Mount a Samlex EVO-2212 inverter/charger at the top of the battery compartment. That will keep it the 12 Volt DC cable runs short as possible. I plan to run three 120 Volt AC cables to the back left electrical compartment to tie in to the Shore and Generator power input on EVO-2212. Output will go direct to power panel in the bedroom. (I will also to remove the factory Converter/Charger.)

I have purchased the Samlex EVO-2212, EVO-RC Remote Control and DC-3500-KIT Inverter Installation Kit.

Three: Solar Panels
The EVO-2212 also has an input for a solar charger. I have purchased the Samlex SRV-100-30A Solar Charging Kit. I am going to order four more 100 watt panels for a total of 500 watts. Four panel will be mounted the roof with the 5th panel will be used as a portable for when I am in the shade. I will use the refrigerator roof vent to pass 10 gauge cables down to charge controller.

I am ordering Four - Renogy RNG-100MB Eclipse 100 Watt Solar Panels.
https://www.renogy.com/renogy-eclipse-100-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-solar-panel/
I am going to mount them on the roof with a Renogy Corner Bracket Mount.
https://www.renogy.com/renogy-corner-bracket-mount/ It should work with the FR3 curved roof.

I went with Renogy because of Amazon free shipping. In fact I used Amazon for all the Samlex parts above. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B3TEM1E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
(Also the Module efficiency of the Eclipse 100W Monocrystalline (18.35%) makes it smaller than a regular 100W Monocrystalline (15.47%) means a smaller footprint on the roof.

I have made arrangement the local Forest River dealer to install the Inverter and roof Solar panels when the roof recall is done. I will have more details as the project moves forward. I also plan on installing 12 Volt DC outlets in Kitchen & Bedroom.

p.s. Also I maybe able to get a Tax credit. https://www.renogy.com/solar-tax-credit

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