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09-21-2016, 03:39 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: New York
Posts: 387
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Rear sway Bar check
Just a friendly reminder check bolts and brackets on rear sway bar. check mind every 6 months but its still happens. 
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Carl & Bette
2018 Leprechaun 
NEW YORK
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09-21-2016, 03:45 PM
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#2
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tipp City, OH
Posts: 7,154
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This happened to me when I was on my trip out west this summer. Top bolt came loose and fell out. Bottom bolt was loose and was able to unscrew with my fingers. Luckily I happen to look under the coach during a fuel stop, not sure why. Got a bolt from a repair shop at the Flying J and with the help of a 3lb hammer, was able to straighten out the bracket and get it bolted back up. I checked the rest and made sure all bolts were tight.
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2016 Georgetown 364TS
2017 Jeep Rubicon Recon toad
Nights Camped 2019 - 17
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09-21-2016, 04:00 PM
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#3
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HAPPY WHEN RV'ING
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Southern California
Posts: 646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl17
Just a friendly reminder check bolts and brackets on rear sway bar. check mind every 6 months but its still happens. |
Always a good practice Carl. I check mine before and after every trip. If I'm out on a long trip, I'll check occasionally. So far, so good. Rather be safe than sorry. 
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Smooth Roads, and, Drive 'em Safe
Curt & Isabel, & 9er (our Goldendoodle)
2014 Forest River FR3 30DS (Beasty)
2014 Honda CRV EX-L (toad)
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09-21-2016, 07:51 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Broward County
Posts: 301
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Makes me wanna get under it tomorrow and unscrew them, and refasten with locktite and torque wrench.
Thanks for letting us know!
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09-21-2016, 07:53 PM
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#5
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DW's 401(k) Plan
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Western MD
Posts: 2,372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DutchRv
Makes me wanna get under it tomorrow and unscrew them, and refasten with locktite and torque wrench.
Thanks for letting us know!
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Ditto! Guess I need to get under the Sunseeker this weekend and check!
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"Sunny" the 2017 Sunseeker 3010DS
2006 Jeep Liberty Toad
.... and lovin' life........MOST of the time.
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09-22-2016, 05:58 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 580
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I replace my bolts with grade 8's and nylon locking nuts with a splash of red thread locker.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums yo
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09-23-2016, 12:16 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Broward County
Posts: 301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne and sherry
I replace my bolts with grade 8's and nylon locking nuts with a splash of red thread locker.
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Doing this today. Any torque specs?
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09-23-2016, 03:43 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Broward County
Posts: 301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne and sherry
I replace my bolts with grade 8's and nylon locking nuts with a splash of red thread locker.
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Just a quick follow up, I did take my bolts out today and added locktite, but on my frame the nut is welded to the bracket that is welded to the axle assy.
Also can't use Grade 8s though, since these are (metric) M12 bolts. Mine were Class 10.9 which is strong enough. (similar to Grade 8 SAE)
PS. Thanks to the TS because mine were LOOSE
PS II. I love hanging out under the RV, I really do. Shouldve gone to school to be a mechanic
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09-27-2016, 08:51 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 182
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sway bar bolts
The spot welded nuts can be broken loose by backing out the bolt about one turn and hitting it with a hammer. Replace the bolt with 1/2" standard grade 8 bolt. If you were to put a trac bar on this is what you would have to do.
I put a SS trac bar on my 30DS and that is what had to be done. Sense installing the trac bar i have put on 15000 miles and nothing has come loose.
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09-27-2016, 07:50 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 580
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I couldn't speak on the stock welded nuts as mine were already missing. That's why l used all grade 8 nylon locking with locker on the threads, and l cranked em as tight as l could.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums yo
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10-07-2016, 02:35 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 44
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Because of this thread, I went to check on mine. This is what I found. I see from previous posts it is a metric M12 bolt, but how long should it be?
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2015 FR3 30DS
2006 Wrangler X
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10-07-2016, 02:50 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Broward County
Posts: 301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatch
Because of this thread, I went to check on mine. This is what I found. I see from previous posts it is a metric M12 bolt, but how long should it be?
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M12 x 1.75 x 35mm
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10-07-2016, 02:59 PM
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#13
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On the road again...
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 48
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Yikes!! I'm getting the creeper out right now and going under!! Thanks for the heads up, Boys. I just came off a 2400mi trip on some pretty rough pavement and lots of wind.
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10-07-2016, 03:25 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 44
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Thanks DutchRv!
Also, while under there I am going to do the cheap handling fix (connecting the front and rear sway bars to the inboard holes instead of outboard). Every thing I have read said this improved handling performance. Has anyone heard of any negatives to doing this.
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2015 FR3 30DS
2006 Wrangler X
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10-07-2016, 03:51 PM
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#15
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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If it is 12mm, you can use a gr 8 1/2" x 1-1/2" bolt and gr 8 nyloc nut.
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10-08-2016, 01:52 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Broward County
Posts: 301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatch
Thanks DutchRv!
Also, while under there I am going to do the cheap handling fix (connecting the front and rear sway bars to the inboard holes instead of outboard). Every thing I have read said this improved handling performance. Has anyone heard of any negatives to doing this.
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I did it. Great improvement!
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10-14-2016, 02:34 PM
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#17
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Certified Curmudgeon
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Here
Posts: 3,999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gatch
Thanks DutchRv!
Also, while under there I am going to do the cheap handling fix (connecting the front and rear sway bars to the inboard holes instead of outboard). Every thing I have read said this improved handling performance. Has anyone heard of any negatives to doing this.
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The only negative is on the front. If you do not use a longer link you could get clunking noise and premature bushing failure. Nothing catostrophic. I have 25,000 miles on mine since the adjustment was made.
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Mike Dropped
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10-19-2016, 06:15 PM
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#18
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 12
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Looks like mine is broken as well. Thanks for the tip.
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10-20-2016, 10:55 AM
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#19
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On the road again...
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 48
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Follow up
Well, after crawling under the rig per my previous post I found the right side bracket broken as per pics by others. I have 15,000 mi. on this rig so it's a Ford warranty deal but I ordered the parts from my local Ford guy so I have them on board for the next time. The parts are cheaper than the fuel to go get it fixed for free. I will have Ford fix it, though.
Les, my local Ford parts guy, pointed out that the sway bar for the 24K-26K chassis is stiffer and actually costs $158 compared to $196 for the 16K-22K.
That, along with the CHF might be a good way to go. The Roadmaster bar for $500+ probably works well as it should for that kind of money.
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