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Old 04-29-2019, 08:26 PM   #1
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Satellite Connection for 30DS?

We have a 2019 FR3 30DS. I connected our Dish Tailgater directly to the main TV and it works. I can't find any satellite connections (our Sunseeker had one on the roof), so I connected my satellite coax to the cable connection. That didn't work. Will I need to run a new coax for my satellite?
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Old 04-30-2019, 09:11 AM   #2
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I have a 2016, Ours in the back by the 30 amp cable connection, This will run it to all three TV's, To run a Satellite or Cable connection the TV Antenna has to be off or it will override what ever you plug into it. The TV Antenna switch for us is at the front door by where you lower the bunk.
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Old 05-01-2019, 06:20 AM   #3
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Own a 2016 28DS. I had to run a dedicated cable for the tailgater. Satellite needs an uninterrupted cable free of any splitters, etc.
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Old 05-01-2019, 06:50 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by CLgoodlife View Post
I have a 2016, Ours in the back by the 30 amp cable connection, This will run it to all three TV's, To run a Satellite or Cable connection the TV Antenna has to be off or it will override what ever you plug into it. The TV Antenna switch for us is at the front door by where you lower the bunk.
Thanks! I hooked mine to the cable connection and turned off the TV amp. Tried 2 different connections inside but neither worked. 1- Unhooked the coax from TV and connected it to my receiver. 2- Plugged new coax into connector on TV faceplate (nothing is connected to it; TV coax comes out of the wall).
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Old 05-01-2019, 06:51 AM   #5
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Own a 2016 28DS. I had to run a dedicated cable for the tailgater. Satellite needs an uninterrupted cable free of any splitters, etc.
Thanks! That's what I suspect.
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Old 05-01-2019, 06:57 AM   #6
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Here is a picture of my current cable connection.Click image for larger version

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Old 05-01-2019, 07:17 AM   #7
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As a couple of others, I can not get reception with tailgater thru TT installed cabeling. TG'er>>>receiver>>>> TV is the only way I can get signal/
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Old 05-01-2019, 07:40 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by mtnjeeper View Post
We have a 2019 FR3 30DS. I connected our Dish Tailgater directly to the main TV and it works. I can't find any satellite connections (our Sunseeker had one on the roof), so I connected my satellite coax to the cable connection. That didn't work. Will I need to run a new coax for my satellite?
I'm guessing that you mean you connected the Tailgater Antenna directly to your RECEIVER, and the receiver to your TV...

yes, most coaches don't have a true 'direct' SAT input from outside and into the coach... though you might think so since your 'bomb', or box of many buttons Entertainment box may have an input that reads 'SAT'. It just does not generally work the way most of us think it should.

I found that creating your 'own' coax wiring scheme works so much better than trying to use anything that the factory provides. Our coach came 'sat ready', but the reality is that it is only a 'mount' installed below the rubber roof membrane, maybe with some 'pre-wire' coax down into the cabinet with the 'bomb' box. If you don't want to permanently mount a Traveler' style articulating antenna up there, then it's not really a good option.
We like the portable antenna option, but decided to only provide a temporary 'mount' near the rear of the roof at the ladder area, for easy access, without having to climb all the way on the roof to 'move' the antenna, when needed.

I run the coax around the rear a/c cowling, several times, and down into/thru the bedroom slide seal, and into the bedroom where the 'main' RECEIVER and TV are. I can simply park, turn on the Receiver, and start acquiring the satellites.
If trees are in the way, I can 'unmount' the antenna at the rear ladder, move it somewhere else on the roof, or down onto the ground, as needed.
I also have some longer cable, probably 300' total, that I've also used to put the antenna a really long way away from the coach, in special situations.

I also can run a second coax thru the 'secondary' antenna output, to the Living room or Outside tv receiver, etc.

The more your travel, camp, and see the country... the more you'll find ways to 'customize' your setup to meet your needs. Some like a simple roof-top setup that they never have to touch, but they also might miss opportunities where moving the antenna would render all three satellites, instead of only one, or even NONE. Most of us like to park under the shade, but that does not work well for satellite tv.

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Old 05-01-2019, 01:26 PM   #9
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Here is a picture of my current cable connection.Attachment 203330
If I Turn off that Green Light my cable will come right on, don't even have to scan the channels. I just connect the cable Feed at the RV Park to the connection in the back and it will feed to all three 3 TV's, maybe I just got lucky, Good luck
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Old 05-01-2019, 02:25 PM   #10
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Here is a picture of my current cable connection.Attachment 203330
If this panel is the only output for your TV there is a simple solution. The park cable input from the outside goes directly to that panel. Remove the panel, disconnect the park cable input from it. Connect the removed park cable to the input of an A/B switch. Connect a cable from A going to your SAT receiver and connect a cable from B going back to the panel where you removed the park cable from. Use the HDMI output from your SAT receiver to the TV and leave the coax cable from the plate connected to your TV coax input as is. This will require an exit/entrance hole in the bulkhead adjacent to the panel for the coax cables. An A/B switch is cheap ($4-$6) and short coax cables are available anywhere. When you have the SAT antenna connected to the park cable input set the A/B switch to "A" and your set for SAT. For park cable set the A/B switch to "B" and your set for park cable. For OTA antenna it doesn't matter. Of course this is predicated upon the back of that booster panel currently the splitter for the TV inputs (cable/OTA antenna). On the TV you will have to select HDMI as the input for SAT. This of course is for a single dedicated TV. For park cable input the booster panel will still have to be turned off (light out).

ADDED: There is room for the cables through that existing port shown.
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Old 05-01-2019, 04:51 PM   #11
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FR3 30DS

Thinking of buying this coach in a few months. New 2019. Any thoughts would be appreciated pro and cons.
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Old 05-01-2019, 08:24 PM   #12
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I'm guessing that you mean you connected the Tailgater Antenna directly to your RECEIVER, and the receiver to your TV...

yes, most coaches don't have a true 'direct' SAT input from outside and into the coach... though you might think so since your 'bomb', or box of many buttons Entertainment box may have an input that reads 'SAT'. It just does not generally work the way most of us think it should.

I found that creating your 'own' coax wiring scheme works so much better than trying to use anything that the factory provides. Our coach came 'sat ready', but the reality is that it is only a 'mount' installed below the rubber roof membrane, maybe with some 'pre-wire' coax down into the cabinet with the 'bomb' box. If you don't want to permanently mount a Traveler' style articulating antenna up there, then it's not really a good option.
We like the portable antenna option, but decided to only provide a temporary 'mount' near the rear of the roof at the ladder area, for easy access, without having to climb all the way on the roof to 'move' the antenna, when needed.

I run the coax around the rear a/c cowling, several times, and down into/thru the bedroom slide seal, and into the bedroom where the 'main' RECEIVER and TV are. I can simply park, turn on the Receiver, and start acquiring the satellites.
If trees are in the way, I can 'unmount' the antenna at the rear ladder, move it somewhere else on the roof, or down onto the ground, as needed.
I also have some longer cable, probably 300' total, that I've also used to put the antenna a really long way away from the coach, in special situations.

I also can run a second coax thru the 'secondary' antenna output, to the Living room or Outside tv receiver, etc.

The more your travel, camp, and see the country... the more you'll find ways to 'customize' your setup to meet your needs. Some like a simple roof-top setup that they never have to touch, but they also might miss opportunities where moving the antenna would render all three satellites, instead of only one, or even NONE. Most of us like to park under the shade, but that does not work well for satellite tv.

Thanks for the info! Looks like you have your process all worked out. We're going to keep our portable setup. I'll work on getting new coax lines run where necessary.
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Old 05-01-2019, 08:31 PM   #13
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If this panel is the only output for your TV there is a simple solution. The park cable input from the outside goes directly to that panel. Remove the panel, disconnect the park cable input from it. Connect the removed park cable to the input of an A/B switch. Connect a cable from A going to your SAT receiver and connect a cable from B going back to the panel where you removed the park cable from. Use the HDMI output from your SAT receiver to the TV and leave the coax cable from the plate connected to your TV coax input as is. This will require an exit/entrance hole in the bulkhead adjacent to the panel for the coax cables. An A/B switch is cheap ($4-$6) and short coax cables are available anywhere. When you have the SAT antenna connected to the park cable input set the A/B switch to "A" and your set for SAT. For park cable set the A/B switch to "B" and your set for park cable. For OTA antenna it doesn't matter. Of course this is predicated upon the back of that booster panel currently the splitter for the TV inputs (cable/OTA antenna). On the TV you will have to select HDMI as the input for SAT. This of course is for a single dedicated TV. For park cable input the booster panel will still have to be turned off (light out).

ADDED: There is room for the cables through that existing port shown.
I'll open up that connection and take a look. The coax from my antenna comes out of the wall to the right of the plate. I assume it is connected to the back of plate. Where is the best place to buy connectors and switches? I don't want to buy cheap ones and cause myself more problems. Are there any specifications I should use? Thanks for your help!
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Old 05-02-2019, 06:24 AM   #14
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I'll open up that connection and take a look. The coax from my antenna comes out of the wall to the right of the plate. I assume it is connected to the back of plate. Where is the best place to buy connectors and switches? I don't want to buy cheap ones and cause myself more problems. Are there any specifications I should use? Thanks for your help!
You shouldn't need any connectors and the A/B switch is inherently inexpensive and available at Wallyworld, Amazon, etc.. Short (pre-terminated) coax cables (RG6) are available also. On the back of that plate all coax connections are made via RG6 coax cables that already have connectors. I believe this is the back of your plate.
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Old 05-02-2019, 06:32 AM   #15
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You can google "a/b switch" to get a visual of what they look like.
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Old 05-02-2019, 09:14 AM   #16
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You can google "a/b switch" to get a visual of what they look like.
Thanks! I'll pull this apart and get busy.
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Old 05-09-2019, 01:16 AM   #17
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You shouldn't need any connectors and the A/B switch is inherently inexpensive and available at Wallyworld, Amazon, etc.. Short (pre-terminated) coax cables (RG6) are available also. On the back of that plate all coax connections are made via RG6 coax cables that already have connectors. I believe this is the back of your plate.


This is the back of our switch plate. But a screw driver bumped the electrical. It made a pop and n then the light wouldn’t come on ... we checked all the fuses and got a new plate ... but the light of the jack in the ceiling won’t even come on we shorted something out. Any suggestions
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