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Solar
There is a roof stud layout posted somewhere here. I couldn't find it. But I don't really think u need to worry about it.
During my factory tour I discovered the FR3 roof cap is pre assembled as a cap with two sheets of ply curved over the wooden frame struts. Then coated with glue and the (TPO I think?) vinyl top material.
So my point is that (for solar) you probably have about 1/2 inch of material to bind with the proper wood screw, that u may want to make stainless. You should not hit electrical but might hit the front to back air conditioner ducts that are simply cavities. Assuming u cover your screws correctly with lap sealant that would not be an issue either.
Note that I believe the sides of the roof cap are shallower than the center. If you were installing a stand up dish antenna such as a traveler, that was heavy and was going to be motorized I would want that layout and to attempt to hit some studs.
But keep in mind with the available real restate up there after avoiding the radio antenna, the vents, the the crank up exhaust fans, the AC unit, you may not be able to hit the studs with your panels anyway.
My panels are low profile flex and sit directly on the roof and are sealed all around so I have no wind drag. But honestly, if I had it to do again I would have gone with conventional panels, clips and hinges on one side so I could tilt the panels. I find that my install (around the front AC unit and behind my sat dome) often causes one panel to be partially shaded most the time. My 200 watts at best produce above 6A in full sun. Usually enough for me.
Good luck.
Post note. As usual Kansas replied as I was typing. . Great info from him as always.
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Linear Mode
