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Old 02-01-2015, 09:06 PM   #31
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thanks bigdocron, FR3-25DSowner & rgmiller32
I'll have to do some more research
My 25DS does not drive very well, white knuckle driving over 65 mph
big trucks passing me blows the MH all over the place
I've done the CHF on the front, tires are at max pressure, had a wheel alignment
I still have to do the rear CHF, then install one of these stabilizers
if that doesn't work, bye bye FR3
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:37 PM   #32
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I won't drive my FR3 over 65. Not only would it make fuel efficiency even worse than it already is, I would not be surprised if it handled worse. I think the short wheelbase makes it a bit squirrely at speed compared to a longer wheelbase.
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:48 PM   #33
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Yes, I completely agree with you, but with speed limits up to 75 to 80 mph, semi trucks at that speed or better, 65 mph is slow, and any less, you become a hazzard


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Old 02-01-2015, 09:52 PM   #34
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If trucks are going 75-80, THEY are the hazard, not you for going 65. Most places I've seen, truck speed limits are 10 MPH less than for cars anyway.
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Old 02-01-2015, 09:53 PM   #35
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First thing is to have the front end alignment checked. Ours was towed out by 1/2". Made for a very darty drive. Check tire pressures and start at the Ford recemendation. Under inflation and over inflation will make it darty. Then check for a front track bar and do the cheap handling fix. Next would be the front steering stabilizer. Last would be rear track bar.
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Old 02-01-2015, 11:43 PM   #36
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Installed the True Center, run all tires at 82psi, handling improved 100%. Oh yes, first thing I did was contact FR for a alignment under warranty. The true center is worth the extra money!
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Old 04-04-2015, 01:26 PM   #37
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I finally had a little time to crawl under "Beasty" to have a look at doing the CHF. I see what everyone is talking about but, in looking at the links it looks as tho' if I were to try to move the link to the inner hole, the link would not be long enough. There are no adjustments. Before I go crawling back under there, I'm asking those that have done the CHF, am I wrong? Is the link long enough to fit into the inner hole? Do I need to jack the end of the sway bar up for it to fit?
Any advice is welcome.
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Old 04-04-2015, 02:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivmsafe View Post
I finally had a little time to crawl under "Beasty" to have a look at doing the CHF. I see what everyone is talking about but, in looking at the links it looks as tho' if I were to try to move the link to the inner hole, the link would not be long enough. There are no adjustments. Before I go crawling back under there, I'm asking those that have done the CHF, am I wrong? Is the link long enough to fit into the inner hole? Do I need to jack the end of the sway bar up for it to fit?
Any advice is welcome.
They are long enough. You just have to rotate the stabilizer up to meet (no jack needed, although connecting the second strut may require it if the RV is not perfectly level. There are those who advocate installing a longer strut to preserve the same geometry between the strut and the stabilizer, but many (including me) have not done so with no reported ill effects. I drove hundreds and hundreds of miles over extremely rough road (right lane on I-5 in California) with no problems.
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Old 04-04-2015, 02:16 PM   #39
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HAH!! I know all about that I-5 right lane. lol
Appreciate the info FR3. I'm going to assume that the angle, once the link is moved, is not a problem? Right now it's straight up and down.


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Old 04-04-2015, 03:11 PM   #40
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tHE LINK ARE LONG ENOUGH SWAY BAR PUSHES UP LINK move , i used a jack on rear bar was not on level ground not a biggie, piece of cake.
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