Suspension Upgrade

[Jim Wiemels]

My contact at SuperSprings International who makes the Sumo Springs was Gerry Lamberti (CEO) 505 Maple Avenue, Carpinteria, CA 93013 Phone: 805-745-5553. He was extremely helpful as we had an exchange of emails and live conversations. The Part Numbers: for front SSF-184-40-1 and for rear SSR-184-40-1. In the right rear a 2" vertical square tube welded to the frame interfered with the location of the Sumo Spring upper bracket. Gerry recommended to go with a Blue 7" spring rather than the Blue 8" which comes with the kit. All the installation brackets are the same but the upper brackets in the rear are mounted approximately one inch lower therefore the shorter blue spring. I highly encourage you to talk to Gerry if possible because they are always doing additional development and may spec a slightly different spring since it has been almost one year. The following photos show the original installation diagram which the interference point on the right hand rear on FR 30DS doesn't allow, and our actual installation with the new lower position of the upper Sumo Spring bracket and shorter 7" Blue Sumo Spring. Before installing the Sumo Springs, I had added a Henderson rear trac bar that required a minor trimming of a gusset which Sumo Springs and Henderson talked and said it would not affects the function of the rear trac bar. No modifications required to install the front Sumo Springs. I had Camping World do all four suspension improvements but I did the research and interaction with Gerry at SuperSprings International. . You will want to do a visual check to make sure you will have that same interference point on the right rear since I'm sure Forest River makes running changes. I hope I haven't confused you too much and please free to ask for additional information.


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[twojump36]

Thanks Jim,

I called Sumo yesterday and they gave me the same part numbers you referenced.
I will call Gerry and pick his brain if I can get that far upstream... my coach is a 2015 30DS and runs off the F-35 chassis so I'm pretty sure its the same as yours... never know though!

I will let you know what I find out. What did Camping World soak you for the install if you don't mind me asking?... I'm pretty good about doing this stuff on my own, but if it wasn't too much, maybe they can do it for me. I'm assuming you have to take the wheels of is that correct?

Sorry for all the questions bud.

Todd

[Jim Wiemels]

They had to remove the rear dual wheels but I'm thinking they left the front wheels on but not sure. Camping World cost for Sumo Spring - front (Parts $ 642.60 install $ 178.50) for rear(Parts $681.80 install $297.50) plus taxes. If you want what the cost for other enhancements ( Safety-T-Plus, Henderson rear trac bar, and Road Master aux rear sway bar let me know). I know that Camping World does get a lot of negative reviews but I was please with the work they did for me. I'm sure it depends on the personnel at each location.


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[linchat]

Going to second someone else, all we added was a safety-plus, THOUGH, I wish I spend the extra with a Blue Ox TruCenter. Just drove about 7,000 miles and getting the saftey plus centered was a little tough. Once i attached my F150, I lost alignment and having the TruCenter would have been nice.

ALSO, I am now that I am back going to look at the Cheap Handling Fix. I definately fealt I could have driven more miles in one day, but fighting the RV wore me down. Did about 400-500 miles per day.

[twojump36]

Originally Posted by linchat

Going to second someone else, all we added was a safety-plus, THOUGH, I wish I spend the extra with a Blue Ox TruCenter. Just drove about 7,000 miles and getting the saftey plus centered was a little tough. Once i attached my F150, I lost alignment and having the TruCenter would have been nice.

ALSO, I am now that I am back going to look at the Cheap Handling Fix. I definately fealt I could have driven more miles in one day, but fighting the RV wore me down. Did about 400-500 miles per day.

Same here... I drove about 465 on my longest day, and I was wore out... mentally just toast! my shortest day was 350 and it felt like a chip shot... I found about 6 hours was ok but that last 2 hours was real tough... especially since my longest 465 mile day was on I-90 though Montana from Spokane Washington to Yellowstone... on that "goat path"... that front end crashing on those cracks in the highway and all the pounding in that front end wore me out.

[linchat]

Originally Posted by twojump36

Same here... I drove about 465 on my longest day, and I was wore out... mentally just toast! my shortest day was 350 and it felt like a chip shot... I found about 6 hours was ok but that last 2 hours was real tough... especially since my longest 465 mile day was on I-90 though Montana from Spokane Washington to Yellowstone... on that "goat path"... that front end crashing on those cracks in the highway and all the pounding in that front end wore me out.

Sounds like my drive through Arkansas. Those rodes were cracked for miles and miles on end (and my front end was just causing my center console to jump all over the place on that drive). NOT a pleasant drive through beautiful scenery.

I would agree 6 hours starts to max things out. The little give in the stearing wheel is annoying, the safetyplus helps with that. Looking forward to trying the CHF.

[edm]

This is just some update info on Sumssprings for our fr3's. Look at the Sumo site for the Forest river products. They now recommend using the SSR-187-40-1 kit for the rear of the vehicle. If you look at the installation instructions it will show you were to drill the 2 bottom holes in the frame. They now want them drilled down 6 inches from the top of the frame instead of the original 4.5". This new drilling will now make the bracket miss the 2x2 that is welded to the frame.
Hope this helps.

[Bearister]

Just put Sumos on last week (FR30). Difference is amazing.

Bear

[Philos3]

Over the last three years I have read a lot of these suspension discussions.

The best position to be in is if you don't own a coach. If you are gonna travel a lot the simple no-brainer solution is a diesel pusher.

If you have a coach, as you do, it seems to me it is down to summo springs plus several of the items already mentioned, or possibly a Kelderman air ride.

The real problem is getting a ride in a coach that someone has done a good job of the upgrades on so you would know what is possible with either choice. The Kelderman's choice is the most expensive choice.

Again, hard to ride the evidence unless you can do a fly out to a member who is willing to demo.

Everyones butt is different and age matters.

About a year ago there was a great summo springs article you should be able to research. At that time I brought up the subject in a different forum and all the dp owners just craxxed all over me...minds were totally closed.

The feedback in this forum seems highly encouraging. It is one of those confusing things why Ford or the MH mfg won't provide these upgrades upfront...unless they determined that the result did not justify the effort.

Just remember that every chassis is different and it is hard to know if you installed it all right and bought all the right option variations. Taking it to a suspension shop is possible, but only if they have experience with all the options you are considering otherwise they will fall back on what they know.

So, what I'm saying is that you are either lucky or know what you are doing to choose and dial in each piece, and to be able to evaluate the end result. But, remember, you are starting with a chassis that is a truck chassis so how far you can take it is an unknowable.

=========Below a bit off topic.
At this time, I have a list of specific units and various classes that my wife and I intend to rent for a week at a time. I don't know if we will "buy" as we would like to have the option to travel overseas at times, so why get heavily invested in a particular unit, especially if since we are keeping the house and not gonna become full-timers.

Every time I read a cost to travel analysis they leave out the depreciation cost which is a big cost to ignore just because it can be conveniently ignored until you trade up.