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Old 08-08-2014, 02:15 PM   #51
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Well got an update on my unit. Stair parts from Lippert should arrive today. Lippert will deal direct with dealer on warrenty. Dealer advises they are waiting on FR to get BAL gear motor to them. BAL doesnt deal warranty directly. So im off to email and write FR and see if we can get the part. Dealer advises 2 or less hours left to fix stairs/slide. Dealer has already put my windscreen seal corner back in and resealed...didnt leak but did pop out. Installed brake controller and replaced a very hard to turn lp valve.

Ill keep posting as should all. Seems that FR/BAL is where the problem sits.
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Old 08-08-2014, 02:28 PM   #52
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Tell the tech to bypass the hardwire to the ac unit and try it with a heavy duty extention cord. This is of course just for testing purposes and not a fix. If the AC unit works then it is a wire connection issue. Most likly you have a poor connection and it draws too much amperage when the wires start to warm up as it had too juch resistance. Not sure if that will help but just my two cents!
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Old 08-08-2014, 03:43 PM   #53
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Have ther checked the connection to the power panel. If the input power is loose it will cauls a hi amp draw. Best of luck
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Old 08-08-2014, 04:10 PM   #54
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Are they using stripped wires, wire nuts and screw type of connections or are some of them the quick connector type where the wire is pushed into a slot that cuts through the insulation to make the connection? If the later these can build up resistance due to a poor connection which will raise the current draw and potentially (pun intended) cause the breaker to trip.
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Old 08-08-2014, 04:54 PM   #55
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Wow. Took a long time to read through this thread. With years of electrical and controls experience under my belt, and having read this entire thread, I am suspect of the wiring between the breaker and the AC unit. The gremlin spoken of earlier (can't remember who posted that) with the freckle width between a screw and your wire that could expand with heat under load is a real possibility here. Has anyone used Megger (meg-Ohm) meter to test the integrity of the wiring's insulation? The idea of running new, or temporary power wiring would also eliminate this possible problem, but the right meter can identify faulty or damaged wiring insulation.
I would also test the incoming voltage AT THE AC UNIT with the compressor running. A lower voltage there than at the circuit breaker is a sign of a loose connection or damaged wire (nicked while being stripped, smashed, or any thing else that reduces the conductors cross-sectional area at any point).
Wishing you the best of luck, and many happy camping trips in your future!



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Old 08-08-2014, 09:30 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LouNick View Post
Wow. Took a long time to read through this thread. With years of electrical and controls experience under my belt, and having read this entire thread, I am suspect of the wiring between the breaker and the AC unit. The gremlin spoken of earlier (can't remember who posted that) with the freckle width between a screw and your wire that could expand with heat under load is a real possibility here. Has anyone used Megger (meg-Ohm) meter to test the integrity of the wiring's insulation? The idea of running new, or temporary power wiring would also eliminate this possible problem, but the right meter can identify faulty or damaged wiring insulation.
I would also test the incoming voltage AT THE AC UNIT with the compressor running. A lower voltage there than at the circuit breaker is a sign of a loose connection or damaged wire (nicked while being stripped, smashed, or any thing else that reduces the conductors cross-sectional area at any point).
Wishing you the best of luck, and many happy camping trips in your future!



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BINGO Lou!! I think you may have hit the nail on the head. While I said this isn't rocket science, this problem may require more "electrical science" ability than the tech has. I think that's pretty evident in the fact that he has gone to the trouble of replacing the AC twice. It's sad to say, but from what I've seen over the years many dealerships can not, or will not, pay there techs a salary that will fund someone who has "control wiring" and in depth electrical troubleshooting knowledge and skills. Many only have very basic electrical knowledge and may not know how to spell "Ohm's law" much less Megger. But to be fair, dealership management may have this poor tech so overloaded with work the he simply may not have been given the time to focus and troubleshoot this thing.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:48 AM   #57
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Auntie,
Has your elect problem been solved yet? Mine has not after 3 weeks sitting at the dealer!
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:56 AM   #58
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You will find that dealers all like to blame FR for their incompetence.
Coot, come on. If what the lady said is factual, and I believe her, FR should have at least provided the wiring schematic, to assist the dealer, wouldn't you agree!
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Old 08-14-2014, 11:33 AM   #59
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Brewster - Not yet, but the dealer has 2 other things they wanted to try this week so I have decided to lay low and wait to hear from them. Are they working on figuring out your AC problem or other issues?

Coot and Kickin - Here is some language from the FR customer service FAQ page:

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Q-How can I obtain schematics of my Forest River RV product?
Forest River RV does not publish schematics of our products. Should a technical concern arise, we would recommend contacting your local Forest River RV dealer.
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Old 08-14-2014, 11:42 AM   #60
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Which goes back to what I said eariler.....they are wired and plumbed "similarly", but NOT identically, which is why they don't publish an official plumbing or wiring diagram. This could all be avoided and reduce their problems with QC if FR insisted that the assembly line assembled all FR3 units the same. But because they don't, they really have no idea how any specific FR3 unit was wired or plumbed. Hence, the dealer is put in the middle and expected to trouble shoot and fix a problem that they didn't cause and may not even have the technical expertise to fix.


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