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Old 01-26-2015, 09:39 PM   #31
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If you haven't installed the tie downs yet, if a regular hex head bolt head isn't flush looking with the tie downs, I'd suggest zinc plated flathead socket head cap screws. They are stronger than a g5 bolt, and would have a flat head like the original bolts you were planning to use. If regular hex head bolts work, then they are fine as well. The whole project Looks great! Keep it up and you'll really enjoy the fruits of your labor this year and for years to come.
I got the hex heads. Haven't tried them yet. Will keep that in mind. Thanks
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Old 02-04-2015, 01:57 PM   #32
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Plywood layed down. Floor adhesive worked well. Added more supports. Floor feels better then when I originally bought it.

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Old 03-24-2015, 05:28 PM   #33
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Just wanted to give a quick update.

There were some cracks in the frame. I took it to a welder and he fixed the cracks and added some metal supports to the frame so the frame doesn't flex like it did.

Very happy with the work he did. here's some pictures :

Here is where there used to be a big crack. Spray painted most of the welds and steel to stop any rusting :



Here is a support that was added to help stabilize the frame :



Here's the middle support



Here's the 3rd and final support

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Old 03-24-2015, 05:30 PM   #34
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Here's what the crack looked like before the weld

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Old 03-25-2015, 12:40 AM   #35
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This is what I'll be applying to the floor. Herculiner is a bed-liner that can be applied to almost anything. This should protect the floor for many years to come

Have undercoating in a can I will apply to the steel also



Was in my garage tonight and I was clearing things out in prep of when I apply the Herculiner. Still kinda cold out. So I looked under the sink in the kitchen area and spotted this.

Have to shake my head some times... They should have fixed this





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Old 03-25-2015, 03:01 AM   #36
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Here's what the crack looked like before the weld

lets get a good look here and try to grasp what may be causing this particular crack. the floor joists run lengthwise on this coach. they carry none of side wall stresses. all the sidewall stress is carried by the outriggers like you see in the pic. so when the frame flexes over the axles there is substantial downward force exerted on that outrigger pictured by the wall, which is straight and fairly rigid. that force wants to punch through that frame. i believe that to be the primary cause of the crack. i would add material to distribute the load of axle area outriggers to the frame.
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Old 03-26-2015, 02:05 PM   #37
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lets get a good look here and try to grasp what may be causing this particular crack. the floor joists run lengthwise on this coach. they carry none of side wall stresses. all the sidewall stress is carried by the outriggers like you see in the pic. so when the frame flexes over the axles there is substantial downward force exerted on that outrigger pictured by the wall, which is straight and fairly rigid. that force wants to punch through that frame. i believe that to be the primary cause of the crack. i would add material to distribute the load of axle area outriggers to the frame.
I originally wanted a gusset type plate installed. Looking back at the picture I also see the crack is above hanger for the spring which also make me think about the whole frame flexing.

I'm really confused that the frame would crack at all in the first place.

Thanks for the advice
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Old 03-26-2015, 04:04 PM   #38
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not sure if you can get the gist of my original post. But the mods you had done, though good and common to do, actually will make this area want to crack worse. the I beam will no longer be able to flex as much.
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Old 03-26-2015, 04:14 PM   #39
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not sure if you can get the gist of my original post. But the mods you had done, though good and common to do, actually will make this area want to crack worse. the I beam will no longer be able to flex as much.
I would have run a gusset from the outrigger to the bottom flange of the I beam and spread the load across the entire beam instead stopping it on the web.
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Old 03-26-2015, 05:12 PM   #40
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I would have run a gusset from the outrigger to the bottom flange of the I beam and spread the load across the entire beam instead stopping it on the web.
x2....agreeing so much now its scary
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