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Old 03-26-2015, 05:16 PM   #41
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Chris, NOT the place to weld in angle for support. Never, ever on suspension brackets. Never. The crack was solely from point loading on that outrigger. The crack should have been drilled both ends and welded up. Then a mending plate installed full height of the web over at least a couple feet to increase the capacity in the horizontal axis of the beam there and spread the reaction.
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:57 PM   #42
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well, it wasnt that long ago a frame manufacturer had a tall I beam frame and the hangers were breaking welds, due to the thinness of the material of the I beam... the warranty fix was to do very close to what this welder did. Of course it was warranty so the mfg wanted to get out as cheaply as possible I assume. Some engineer stamped it none the less...
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:17 PM   #43
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well, it wasnt that long ago a frame manufacturer had a tall I beam frame and the hangers were breaking welds, due to the thinness of the material of the I beam... the warranty fix was to do very close to what this welder did. Of course it was warranty so the mfg wanted to get out as cheaply as possible I assume. Some engineer stamped it none the less...
Transverse support? That is, bracket to bracket like the welder did here without stiffners to tie the flanges and web? There's little capacity in those cold bent brackets and it takes a welder worth his stuff not to overheat and force a phase change in that steel that leads to brittle fracture.
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Old 03-27-2015, 12:09 AM   #44
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the only hangers I have seen crack are the thin ones as of late. hangers have gotten taller and thinner over the years. of course when mounting, one welds close to the bent radius you mentioned. mild steel, at less than .03% carbon, is not even considered steel by a metalurgist. i believe thats how i get away with welding it without issues.
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Old 03-27-2015, 08:44 PM   #45
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Went back and re-read all the replies.

Agreed this welding and situation could have been dealt with in a better way.

For now I will take my chances with what I have.

I will keep an eye on the frame and look for any new signs of web or cracking at any place new or old.

It's my hope that if someone else runs across a simmiliar problem or situation that they can read through this post and learn from this like I have.

So I did a little bit more work yesterday. Wasn't sure if I was going to leave the bathroom floor with the vinyl on or not. Then my curiosity made me wonder if the floor was effected from the previous owners water leak.

Well I went ahead and removed it. To my surprise it looked fine



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Old 03-27-2015, 11:06 PM   #46
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If we wernt trying to help someone else as well, we would all just pm. I think youve done pretty good thus far. Dont undercoat, just a little paint will help show any cracks on those welds. As far as all the different opinions, your just going to have to sort it out. We are entering the realm of floor coverings. Myself and another poster disagree vehemently here so I'll just refer you to a thread. Forum search "heritage glen 282 bhis". Good luck with your build. We're all pulling for you...even if its different directions...
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Old 03-27-2015, 11:39 PM   #47
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If we wernt trying to help someone else as well, we would all just pm. I think youve done pretty good thus far. Dont undercoat, just a little paint will help show any cracks on those welds. As far as all the different opinions, your just going to have to sort it out. We are entering the realm of floor coverings. Myself and another poster disagree vehemently here so I'll just refer you to a thread. Forum search "heritage glen 282 bhis". Good luck with your build. We're all pulling for you...even if its different directions...
We don't vehemently disagree. I disagree with your particular assertion that a fully glued membrane floor is a universal solution. Stick-built floor and wood deck and laminated composite floor decks are different animals, and the wrong choice will cause rapid deterioration. It's as simple as that. You have a contrary position where you believe it's a manufacturer's duty to protect owners from their ignoring basic preventative maintenance and inspection. So fully glued floor to protect against damage from a potential untended leak. However, such installation will have the unintended consequence of hastening degredation of a laminated composite even if that leak never occurs... My opinion is based solely on the behavior of the material and composition used. The Swiss, who have used engineered composite construction far longer than anyone, learned this decades ago. The RV industry, however, figured it out only in recent years after the myriad of issues with composite floor decks with fully glued flooring. The RV industry is not exactly an industry that solicits the available full breadth of material science, engineering and construction knowledge and experience that has come before it, and sometimes just has to learn from both success and failure.

Chris has plenty of choices with his construction, and also has a great attitude regarding the frame repair. If it doesn't hold up, it's easy enough to properly repair. Now I'm with Crockett - no undercoating - just paint because you'll see distress sooner than later. Not only watch those new welds and angle members, but the frame as well and keep and eye out for unusual tire wear.
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Old 03-28-2015, 12:10 AM   #48
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If you haven't installed the tie downs yet, if a regular hex head bolt head isn't flush looking with the tie downs, I'd suggest zinc plated flathead socket head cap screws. They are stronger than a g5 bolt, and would have a flat head like the original bolts you were planning to use. If regular hex head bolts work, then they are fine as well. The whole project Looks great! Keep it up and you'll really enjoy the fruits of your labor this year and for years to come.
Bolts are called 'button head'...have allen wrench head style. Get leak fixed? In drag racing , THE FAST GUYS NEVER PAINT FRAMES either, to hard to spot cracks.
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Old 03-28-2015, 02:39 AM   #49
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Interesting. Okay, I mentioned in the previous thread water permeating between the membrane and subfloor where an owner using due diligence could not see it...Like the at trap under a tub. But, it would be nice, if an owner made a boo boo and got the floor all wet, to not have to worry about water between the vinyl and the floor. Chris's floor had floating vinyl, yet it was not a composite. So, if floating vinyl came before composites, why did the industry spend so much time with full spread on composites as you claim? Were they worried about water? Is every change made by industry done so to benefit the consumer? Is not a composite floor cheaper to build in labor and floor plan specificity? Full spread floors take a while to set before you can get up there and go to work on them dont they. They are not well suited for the assembly line. Ive heard it before....we had issues inthe past but we got it figured out now. Let me know year composites got figured, we'll give it 10 more and see.
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Old 03-30-2015, 12:08 AM   #50
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Looks like the weatherman said we could see warmer weather this upcoming week.

Getting the floor ready for the herculiner. Herculiner states the product can be applied in cold temp down as low as 32F.

I'd rather apply it in 50/60F weather.

Hope this stuff works out for me.





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