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01-21-2015, 12:31 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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01-21-2015, 01:17 PM
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#22
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Infractee
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 796
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Looks great! What a project to do after buying the camper!
I too would only use grade 5 zinc plated hardware, maybe even grade 8 stuff for the actual D-Rings/hold downs. Stay away from stainless in any sort of stress app, too soft.
Good luck with it and I hope your Wife and you enjoy it for years to come!
Not looking forward to the day I have to do something similar...
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01-21-2015, 11:55 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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More work done today..
Had to remove one of the fold up benches/bed to fit one piece of the wood in.
Getting closer.... Whohoo lol
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
Now get camping !
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01-22-2015, 10:39 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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Feels good to look back at the progress...
Have a good one everybody !
Sent from my iPad using Forest River Forums
Now get camping !
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01-22-2015, 11:08 PM
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#25
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 4,499
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Man, I'm impressed. And now you will KNOW that your Harley, and more importantly, your wife, are safe in the TT on your future trips.
__________________
2018 Forester 3011 DS
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01-24-2015, 01:53 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcheatwood
Man, I'm impressed. And now you will KNOW that your Harley, and more importantly, your wife, are safe in the TT on your future trips.
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Thanks. Yeah it's a good piece of mind knowing the floor is in better shape than factory.
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01-24-2015, 05:08 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 735
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Looking good! Going with floor tiles again or garage floor material?
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01-25-2015, 04:58 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geotex1
Looking good! Going with floor tiles again or garage floor material?
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Not sure yet what type of floor I'm going to put down. Any ideas ?
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01-25-2015, 05:00 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RhoZeta
Looks great! What a project to do after buying the camper!
I too would only use grade 5 zinc plated hardware, maybe even grade 8 stuff for the actual D-Rings/hold downs. Stay away from stainless in any sort of stress app, too soft.
Good luck with it and I hope your Wife and you enjoy it for years to come!
Not looking forward to the day I have to do something similar...
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It was overwhelming in the beginning. Glad I had friends that helped in the process. Thanks
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01-25-2015, 08:27 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Stromsburg, Nebraska
Posts: 1,682
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If you haven't installed the tie downs yet, if a regular hex head bolt head isn't flush looking with the tie downs, I'd suggest zinc plated flathead socket head cap screws. They are stronger than a g5 bolt, and would have a flat head like the original bolts you were planning to use. If regular hex head bolts work, then they are fine as well. The whole project Looks great! Keep it up and you'll really enjoy the fruits of your labor this year and for years to come.
__________________
Joel and Teresa
2016 Sabre 34TBOK
2006 GMC 3500 CC LB DRW 4X4
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01-26-2015, 09:39 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtstromsburg
If you haven't installed the tie downs yet, if a regular hex head bolt head isn't flush looking with the tie downs, I'd suggest zinc plated flathead socket head cap screws. They are stronger than a g5 bolt, and would have a flat head like the original bolts you were planning to use. If regular hex head bolts work, then they are fine as well. The whole project Looks great! Keep it up and you'll really enjoy the fruits of your labor this year and for years to come.
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I got the hex heads. Haven't tried them yet. Will keep that in mind. Thanks
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02-04-2015, 01:57 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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03-24-2015, 04:28 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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Just wanted to give a quick update.
There were some cracks in the frame. I took it to a welder and he fixed the cracks and added some metal supports to the frame so the frame doesn't flex like it did.
Very happy with the work he did. here's some pictures :
Here is where there used to be a big crack. Spray painted most of the welds and steel to stop any rusting :
Here is a support that was added to help stabilize the frame :
Here's the middle support
Here's the 3rd and final support
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03-24-2015, 04:30 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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Here's what the crack looked like before the weld
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03-24-2015, 11:40 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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This is what I'll be applying to the floor. Herculiner is a bed-liner that can be applied to almost anything. This should protect the floor for many years to come
Have undercoating in a can I will apply to the steel also
Was in my garage tonight and I was clearing things out in prep of when I apply the Herculiner. Still kinda cold out. So I looked under the sink in the kitchen area and spotted this.
Have to shake my head some times... They should have fixed this
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03-25-2015, 02:01 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Wildwood
Here's what the crack looked like before the weld
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lets get a good look here and try to grasp what may be causing this particular crack. the floor joists run lengthwise on this coach. they carry none of side wall stresses. all the sidewall stress is carried by the outriggers like you see in the pic. so when the frame flexes over the axles there is substantial downward force exerted on that outrigger pictured by the wall, which is straight and fairly rigid. that force wants to punch through that frame. i believe that to be the primary cause of the crack. i would add material to distribute the load of axle area outriggers to the frame.
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03-26-2015, 01:05 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett
lets get a good look here and try to grasp what may be causing this particular crack. the floor joists run lengthwise on this coach. they carry none of side wall stresses. all the sidewall stress is carried by the outriggers like you see in the pic. so when the frame flexes over the axles there is substantial downward force exerted on that outrigger pictured by the wall, which is straight and fairly rigid. that force wants to punch through that frame. i believe that to be the primary cause of the crack. i would add material to distribute the load of axle area outriggers to the frame.
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I originally wanted a gusset type plate installed. Looking back at the picture I also see the crack is above hanger for the spring which also make me think about the whole frame flexing.
I'm really confused that the frame would crack at all in the first place.
Thanks for the advice
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03-26-2015, 03:04 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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not sure if you can get the gist of my original post. But the mods you had done, though good and common to do, actually will make this area want to crack worse. the I beam will no longer be able to flex as much.
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03-26-2015, 03:14 PM
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#39
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett
not sure if you can get the gist of my original post. But the mods you had done, though good and common to do, actually will make this area want to crack worse. the I beam will no longer be able to flex as much.
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I would have run a gusset from the outrigger to the bottom flange of the I beam and spread the load across the entire beam instead stopping it on the web.
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03-26-2015, 04:12 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
I would have run a gusset from the outrigger to the bottom flange of the I beam and spread the load across the entire beam instead stopping it on the web.
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x2....agreeing so much now its scary
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