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Old 08-10-2015, 01:46 AM   #11
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WOOHOOO Good Job !! One thing I would check is the bolts for the tie downs. Had my 99Flh in there and the tie down ripped right out. The bolts went through the frame and rust did a number on the bolts.Rust ate the bolts so bad they were half the size they were supposed to be. Made it easier for the bolts to pull through.

I ended up using grade 5 bolts and nuts. I also used red loctite so the nuts wouldn't back off anytime soon.

Glad you found your water leak.
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Old 08-10-2015, 09:03 AM   #12
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I reused my hardware, it was still in good shape.
I hope the leaky shower was the problem. I still have the front half to rebuild but that will wait till the camping season is over. that will involve taking some of the kitchen apart.
I'll also have to do the bottom of the right side wall. that lowest support board under the siding is bad. its going to take removing the side door and the lowest piece of siding off along with the trim on the front and rear, top to bottom
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Old 08-10-2015, 09:10 AM   #13
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That came out great. How many hours you figure you were into it?

Water can destroy out units so fast. Nice that you were able to fix yours up so nice.

Vin.
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Old 08-10-2015, 10:37 AM   #14
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That came out great. How many hours you figure you were into it?

Water can destroy out units so fast. Nice that you were able to fix yours up so nice.

Vin.
about 25 hours during a weekend, I could have done it faster but it was hot and I took a lot of breaks.
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:18 AM   #15
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you did replace with pressure treated lumber?
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Old 08-10-2015, 12:10 PM   #16
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you did replace with pressure treated lumber?
no, but didn't use fiber glass insulation either, that sucks up the water.

this was a quick fix, the trailer was getting unusable. the rear tie downs, in the corners were unusable.

I'm going the do the front floor near kitchen and side door floor soon, that will decide if I'm going to patch that area or just gut the whole trailer. its only 8' x 15'

I can't believe that a 7 year old trailer can get destroyed in such a short time
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:47 PM   #17
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Starting my floor repair project, Blast 150 MPH

One thing I forgot to mention. When I pulled the floor up I also removed the bolts in the metal piece by the ramp door on the floor.
One day I was opening the door and letting the ramp door go down when I noticed the metal was moving.

I had a welder add a piece of metal and then I screwed that into my new floor.

Not sure if I explained that correctly lol

In any case if you need a pic I can take one and show you what I mean.


It's the metal near the end of the floor at the back. The first thing you step on inside the unit while going up the ramp.
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Old 08-12-2015, 09:08 AM   #18
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Chris, I'm going to check that when I get home. I think the screws in the bottom of the ramp frame go into the chassis. My screws are still in there but I can now see why you would need more some support because I did cut my old floor along the ramp frame and didn't put the new plywood under the ramp frame.

those screws are metal self taping so I would think they screw right into the chassis.

Does that lower part of the door frame need support from the floor? time will tell.
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Old 08-12-2015, 02:46 PM   #19
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Just wanted to post pics to clarify.

I couldn't get the old wood out and the new wood in that lip of the metal.

So like I mentioned I had a piece of steel added so I could screw it to the new floor.

When I opened the ramp door the whole metal flexed up. Not now since the steel was added.

here's what it looked like





Here's how it looked after I covered it up with the bed-liner material

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Old 08-12-2015, 04:00 PM   #20
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Chris, I knew what you taking about. Mine does move also. You do need the extra support from the plywood extending under the ramp trim. I think I will just screw a strip a metal across the metal trim and into the plywood, it shouldn't move then. or maybe a piece of E-Track across the back, one side screwed into the metal the other in the plywood.
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