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Old 05-27-2015, 04:05 AM   #21
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Can't find my manual. Looked on youtube and there was a variety of vids on how to do it.

Going to retighten them this weekend. Want to see if there is any difference.
You should be able to get the manual off of the internet. That's where I get mine that for some reason never made it in my packet when I picked it up from the dealer.....
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:14 AM   #22
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Will look for the manual online. Thanks


Will post this here for future reference
http://www.tritontrailers.com/content/DexterMANUAL.pdf


Lippert http://www.carry-ontrailer.com/wp-co...xle-Manual.pdf
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Old 05-28-2015, 03:22 AM   #23
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chris, your going to get about 1/8" travel at the tread in terms of "play" when adjusted. those bearings will have .001 to .010" clearance when adjusted properly.
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:00 AM   #24
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Not really sure how much play I have but I did notice it did have some. I'm thinking I had the nut tight and I backed off a 1/4 of a turn.

I might have to pull the covers off and hand tighten.
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:11 AM   #25
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Adding bearing grease to my single axle Canyon Cat. The options are regular and synthetic. The camper doesnt have a lot of miles on it yet, but taking a long trip next week and I jus want to be thorough. Should I add one or the other?
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:36 AM   #26
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chris, your going to get about 1/8" travel at the tread in terms of "play" when adjusted. those bearings will have .001 to .010" clearance when adjusted properly.
IMO, 0.010" is too much, 0.005-0.02" is plenty and if the top/bottom of the tire moves 1/8", it is too much. 1/16" is about max. Been doing it this way for well over 60 yrs and never had a bearing go bad.
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:01 PM   #27
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In my Dexter axle owner's manual the axle nut procedure is to rotate the wheel and tighten the axle nut to 50 Ft-Lbs torque. Then hold the wheel stationary, back off the nut with a wrench, tighten the nut finger tight, then back off the nut until the first opening in the lock nut lines up with the hole for the cotter pin. Have you looked at your manual?
X'2

this is more accurate than timkens or others who recommend a certain amount of rotating to back off. reason?...your not as accurate as to lash. if the surfaces anneal then you are too tight. timken used to recommend .001 to .010. I see they have changed that to .001 to .005. Coot likes em tight and I prefer loose, thank heavens were talking about bearings. Ive seen them come in really loose (over 1/4" at tread) before with no damage...cant say the same about too tight. brown stain discoloration is ok. purple or red in the color is too much heat, replace. Same goes for dents in cage or pitting anywhere.
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:29 PM   #28
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Not to hijack the thread but a quick question.

Is it possible to check the bearings and NOT replace the seals? Is one able to open up the wheels and check grease and bearings without having to replace the seals?

Just curious.

Thanks,

Vin.
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:42 PM   #29
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IMO, 0.010" is too much, 0.005-0.02" is plenty and if the top/bottom of the tire moves 1/8", it is too much. 1/16" is about max. Been doing it this way for well over 60 yrs and never had a bearing go bad.
why coot...you just changed your post...what happened to .0005??
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:51 PM   #30
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why coot...you just changed your post...what happened to .0005??
Should be 0.0005" to 0.002". 1/2-2 thousandths.
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