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Old 05-27-2015, 03:05 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Coachmen Chris View Post
Can't find my manual. Looked on youtube and there was a variety of vids on how to do it.

Going to retighten them this weekend. Want to see if there is any difference.
You should be able to get the manual off of the internet. That's where I get mine that for some reason never made it in my packet when I picked it up from the dealer.....
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:14 AM   #22
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Will look for the manual online. Thanks


Will post this here for future reference
http://www.tritontrailers.com/content/DexterMANUAL.pdf


Lippert http://www.carry-ontrailer.com/wp-co...xle-Manual.pdf
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Old 05-28-2015, 02:22 AM   #23
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chris, your going to get about 1/8" travel at the tread in terms of "play" when adjusted. those bearings will have .001 to .010" clearance when adjusted properly.
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:00 AM   #24
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Not really sure how much play I have but I did notice it did have some. I'm thinking I had the nut tight and I backed off a 1/4 of a turn.

I might have to pull the covers off and hand tighten.
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Old 05-29-2015, 10:11 AM   #25
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Adding bearing grease to my single axle Canyon Cat. The options are regular and synthetic. The camper doesnt have a lot of miles on it yet, but taking a long trip next week and I jus want to be thorough. Should I add one or the other?
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Old 05-29-2015, 10:36 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Crockett View Post
chris, your going to get about 1/8" travel at the tread in terms of "play" when adjusted. those bearings will have .001 to .010" clearance when adjusted properly.
IMO, 0.010" is too much, 0.005-0.02" is plenty and if the top/bottom of the tire moves 1/8", it is too much. 1/16" is about max. Been doing it this way for well over 60 yrs and never had a bearing go bad.
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Old 05-29-2015, 02:01 PM   #27
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In my Dexter axle owner's manual the axle nut procedure is to rotate the wheel and tighten the axle nut to 50 Ft-Lbs torque. Then hold the wheel stationary, back off the nut with a wrench, tighten the nut finger tight, then back off the nut until the first opening in the lock nut lines up with the hole for the cotter pin. Have you looked at your manual?
X'2

this is more accurate than timkens or others who recommend a certain amount of rotating to back off. reason?...your not as accurate as to lash. if the surfaces anneal then you are too tight. timken used to recommend .001 to .010. I see they have changed that to .001 to .005. Coot likes em tight and I prefer loose, thank heavens were talking about bearings. Ive seen them come in really loose (over 1/4" at tread) before with no damage...cant say the same about too tight. brown stain discoloration is ok. purple or red in the color is too much heat, replace. Same goes for dents in cage or pitting anywhere.
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Old 05-29-2015, 02:29 PM   #28
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Not to hijack the thread but a quick question.

Is it possible to check the bearings and NOT replace the seals? Is one able to open up the wheels and check grease and bearings without having to replace the seals?

Just curious.

Thanks,

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Old 05-29-2015, 02:42 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
IMO, 0.010" is too much, 0.005-0.02" is plenty and if the top/bottom of the tire moves 1/8", it is too much. 1/16" is about max. Been doing it this way for well over 60 yrs and never had a bearing go bad.
why coot...you just changed your post...what happened to .0005??
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Old 05-29-2015, 02:51 PM   #30
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why coot...you just changed your post...what happened to .0005??
Should be 0.0005" to 0.002". 1/2-2 thousandths.
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Old 05-29-2015, 02:54 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by vinmaker View Post
Not to hijack the thread but a quick question.

Is it possible to check the bearings and NOT replace the seals? Is one able to open up the wheels and check grease and bearings without having to replace the seals?

Just curious.

Thanks,

Vin.
Rear or inner bearing cannot be "inspected nor packed" without removing seal.

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Old 05-29-2015, 03:05 PM   #32
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My Dad always said if you're going to error, its better to be a little loose than too tight, as the bearings can seize if they're too tight and get hot. Been following that advice for 45 years with no problems. Always just grabbed the top of the tire and jiggled it real hard. If I feel just the slightest amount of slack I'm good, never used a dial gauge.
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:12 PM   #33
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My Dad always said if you're going to error, its better to be a little loose than too tight, as the bearings can seize if they're too tight and get hot. Been following that advice for 45 years with no problems. Always just grabbed the top of the tire and jiggled it real hard. If I feel just the slightest amount of slack I'm good, never used a dial gauge.
Good advice, basically what I use as you cannot measure the cup to cone clearance once they are assembled. You can measure the clearance between the washer and the cone, but it is a tedious procedure and not really necessary.
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:23 PM   #34
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and I just figured out why timken reduced their spec over the years. Or at least speculated an answer...long fiber grease was the norm back in the day. so its settled...or at least fairly settled compared to most threads...
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:28 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by indybp57 View Post
My Dad always said if you're going to error, its better to be a little loose than too tight, as the bearings can seize if they're too tight and get hot. Been following that advice for 45 years with no problems. Always just grabbed the top of the tire and jiggled it real hard. If I feel just the slightest amount of slack I'm good, never used a dial gauge.
Exactly how I did it today, Thanks


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long fiber grease was the norm back in the day
Do Tell. Never heard of long fiber grease.

So I tightened up the castle nut. I turned it a good 1/4 turn. The play that I felt before I tightened it felt like 1/8 or more.

I hand tightened the nut and there is 1/16 now or less. There is some play but a big difference from earlier. I definitely feel more at ease and comfortable taking it on a trip.

Does anyone know the size grease zerk that goes into that axle or is it standard ?
Thanks
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:13 PM   #36
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im in agreement that ANY play you can feel is enough. my question is by grabbing a large rubber object and wiggling it, at which amount of true distance can you discern that there is play there? I dont think your going to feel less than a 1/32" and say there is definitely play there. it be fun in a perfect world to break out a dial indicator and see what the distances feel like. i know i wont torq and then back off a certain rotation. ill torq and then back off and finger tight and back again to the first castelation. ill run that which i assumed felt like an average of 1/8". never measured. never ran for a different thrust washer because it felt too loose. i know when i posted earlier about real loose ..it was in the 1/4" range. at 14 threads per inch your not going to get too precise though the tang washers give more adjustment than a straight cottar key.
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Old 06-04-2015, 03:26 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Coachmen Chris View Post
Do Tell. Never heard of long fiber grease.

So I tightened up the castle nut. I turned it a good 1/4 turn. The play that I felt before I tightened it felt like 1/8 or more.

I hand tightened the nut and there is 1/16 now or less. There is some play but a big difference from earlier. I definitely feel more at ease and comfortable taking it on a trip.

Does anyone know the size grease zerk that goes into that axle or is it standard ?
Thanks
"Long fiber grease" refers to a grease's tendency to produce long, fibrous strands when extruded or placed under pressure. A misnomer of sorts because there are is no fibrous material in the grease. There are short fiber greases too.

I think you nailed it as regards your bearing's preload. A wee wiggle at the OD of the tire is ok, no movement is a recipe for chewed up bearings.

The grease fitting should accept a standard Zerk with a 1/4-20 tapered thread.

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Old 06-04-2015, 05:17 AM   #38
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Zerk Fitting thread size on (Alco/Dexter) Axles can be (1/4-28 SAE or 1/8-27 NPT) Youroo!!
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:40 AM   #39
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A wee wiggle at the OD of the tire is ok, no movement is a recipe for chewed up bearing.

I was looking for the term "wee wiggle" in the owners manual and couldn't find it. Is that a technical term? :sly:
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Old 06-04-2015, 05:47 AM   #40
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I was looking for the term "wee wiggle" in the owners manual and couldn't find it. Is that a technical term? :sly:
If (wee wiggle) is too much try (a Tad)! Youroo!!
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