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Old 09-07-2015, 02:31 AM   #21
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You know, my slide floor isn't about being soft or "rotted". The ripples and roller indents are hard. And the ripples are only in the first six inches from the outer edge. So maybe it got a lot of water over some time, and then not. The membrane hasn't been off so I don't know if it's wet or not. I had another discussion with CW regarding their 160 hour estimate. It was based on their belief the entire slide needs to be rebuilt. Here is their reasoning:
- With the slide in and the bedroom door closed, the top of the door contacts the top of the slide cabinet face and the bottom of the door is about two inches away. The bedroom door is plumb.
- A level on the vertical face of the slide laundry cabinet, and pantry, shows leaning in at the top at the bedroom and plumb at the kitchen. CW believes the slide is torqued.
- The kitchen back splash on the wall to the left of the stove was curled and pulled away from the wall, peeling the wood grain paper and seam tape away. The wall itself is curved in slightly as the structure behind it isn't correctly installed to hold it out flat. NOTE - this is the original reason for the rig going in for warranty repair.
- The counter top rises 1 inch from left front to right rear. If you sit in the front dinette seat looking across the kitchen sink, you can see the water stop barricade slopes higher to the right against the back of the opposite dinette seat.
- The sink base cabinet wall behind the dinette is pulled away from the base cabinet structure.
- The under-mount kitchen sink is not caulked, so water hitting the sink rim runs into the outlet box at the front sink base cabinet.

All of this led CW to the 160 hours. Not just the floor. Really crappy workmanship. I will have to look at the warranty and figure out how to have FR transport it at their cost.

I've attached some pics of the corners of my slide. Shabby
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:34 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by dmwoody View Post
You know, my slide floor isn't about being soft or "rotted". The ripples and roller indents are hard. And the ripples are only in the first six inches from the outer edge. So maybe it got a lot of water over some time, and then not. The membrane hasn't been off so I don't know if it's wet or not. I had another discussion with CW regarding their 160 hour estimate. It was based on their belief the entire slide needs to be rebuilt. Here is their reasoning:
- With the slide in and the bedroom door closed, the top of the door contacts the top of the slide cabinet face and the bottom of the door is about two inches away. The bedroom door is plumb.
- A level on the vertical face of the slide laundry cabinet, and pantry, shows leaning in at the top at the bedroom and plumb at the kitchen. CW believes the slide is torqued.
- The kitchen back splash on the wall to the left of the stove was curled and pulled away from the wall, peeling the wood grain paper and seam tape away. The wall itself is curved in slightly as the structure behind it isn't correctly installed to hold it out flat. NOTE - this is the original reason for the rig going in for warranty repair.
- The counter top rises 1 inch from left front to right rear. If you sit in the front dinette seat looking across the kitchen sink, you can see the water stop barricade slopes higher to the right against the back of the opposite dinette seat.
- The sink base cabinet wall behind the dinette is pulled away from the base cabinet structure.
- The under-mount kitchen sink is not caulked, so water hitting the sink rim runs into the outlet box at the front sink base cabinet.

All of this led CW to the 160 hours. Not just the floor. Really crappy workmanship. I will have to look at the warranty and figure out how to have FR transport it at their cost.

I've attached some pics of the corners of my slide. Shabby
I really don't see how the corners getting wet could allow so much moisture in to rot a floor or cause that kind of bubbling in the membrane on bottom. Forest River did install a large rubber gasket from top to bottom of slide both forward and aft.

I personally think the bubbling looks like failed adhesive on the backside. It is a sheet of material called Darco. Super sticky backside but if adhesive fails it could do that.

We had a similar issue with previous rv with rubber roof. I thought moisture was getting in causing bubbling in roof but turned out to be poor adhesive bonding.

You could have some other slide issue going on similar to what we had where they had to yank it out at the factory and realign everything.

Looks like your bathroom wall is slightly out of plumb like ours, don't think it is an easy fix.

Keep us posted!
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Old 09-07-2015, 12:53 PM   #23
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Heck the whole sidewalls and interior walls were crooked in our forester. It was terrible. That itself didn't cause too much of a problem, it just looked like crap. On top of that, went to the factory to have slideout unbolted and repositioned, all seals reconfigured (due to slide leak), and a scad of other things, the slide out still leaked on the way home. The slideout hole was not square, nor was the slideout box. That's when I gave up, cut my losses and rid of it as soon as I could. I hope yall have better luck. I've been to both the Forester / Sunseeker factory, and where they build the Legacy. I was not impressed at all. I can only hope they've improved since I was there in 2013.
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Old 09-07-2015, 01:35 PM   #24
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Heck the whole sidewalls and interior walls were crooked in our forester. It was terrible. That itself didn't cause too much of a problem, it just looked like crap. On top of that, went to the factory to have slideout unbolted and repositioned, all seals reconfigured (due to slide leak), and a scad of other things, the slide out still leaked on the way home. The slideout hole was not square, nor was the slideout box. That's when I gave up, cut my losses and rid of it as soon as I could. I hope yall have better luck. I've been to both the Forester / Sunseeker factory, and where they build the Legacy. I was not impressed at all. I can only hope they've improved since I was there in 2013.
I think overall the build quality is pretty good on the legacy and on par with the Berkshire and even the charleston to an extent. Built in same factory as well.

Walk through all three and you will find a lot of the same materials.

After seeing the slide issues my storage neighbor has had with his brand new tiffin it is really all relative. Spend 400k and have some issues or spend 150-200k and have issues.

In the rv world you really need to be able to manage your expectations.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:31 PM   #25
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Totally agree. Had a 2012 Tiffin, and had to bring it back to the factory as well. No matter which price point we've been in over all of our rigs, it's all the same. Probably one of the biggest reasons we went back to simple and basic now after our full timing adventure. I don't feel so bad when stuff goes wrong with my $25k entry level trailer. I really do wish the more you spent, the better the rig, but it's just been proven not so, over and over again. I really like the looks of the Legacy. Seems like a good bang for the buck in a DP. I really hope things will get better. I'm curious to see the results later in this thread when the floors are fixed.
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:28 PM   #26
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Well, major water leaks with my 2014 Legacy have required two trips back to the factory and one visit by a two-man factory team sent to my location. I have 2,500 extra miles on my Coach for having to take it back to the factory for water leaks. I just had some more foam sprayed by FR at the factory underneath my unit to hopefully stop the leaking in the storage bays. It looks like Luray Caverns underneath. While FR has been good in taking care of me, this has been a major frustration. The list of warranty repairs I have had would fill up two pages, single typed, so I'll spare you the details. Maybe they can fix your unit. Oh, I bought a new Blueray to replace the factory issued DVD player that FR claims works. Except for that, and a few other missed items by dealer PDI, and other factory install blunders, I'm burning diesel! (My experience is that dealers are not equipped to handle RV repairs and I don't use them anymore.)
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Old 10-09-2015, 10:51 PM   #27
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So a quick update. psw757 gets the prize! The top notch team at Poulsbo RV checked the bottom of the slide, and it's not rotted. In fact part of the Dacor failed and is creating the rippling shown in the previous pics, as psw757 suggested. Poulsbo RV (champs) fixed half the punch list issues before I picked it up for a trip - talking directly with Mitch at FR for over-the-phone authorization. Poulsbo is waiting to see if FR will allow the aluminum plates (like Palazzo) as a permanent fix, as well as a few other items for the right amount of hours. They are waiting for a kit from FR for a known fix to the bays leaking, as well as other parts for already authorized repairs. FR is balking at removing the kitchen counter top in order to mod the base cabinet to make it level. They don't want to ship one as they believe it will break in shipment. I will have to discuss with Mitch to see how they want to handle it. Pretty weak performance from CW. Leads me to believe they don't know what they're doing. It's not right yet, but it's getting better.
More later.
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Old 10-10-2015, 08:17 AM   #28
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Very good news. I'd like to see photos of the aluminum fix if it goes that way. I'm wondering if it, or simular mod could be a do it yourself preventive measure? That and/or more rollers.
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Old 10-10-2015, 09:11 AM   #29
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Very good news. I'd like to see photos of the aluminum fix if it goes that way. I'm wondering if it, or simular mod could be a do it yourself preventive measure? That and/or more rollers.
When we had our slide issue they were installing the plates on the Berkshire and I asked if this would correct our problem. The answer Forest river gave me is that it would not fix it.

Forest River installed two more rollers to better distribute the weight of the slide and has worked great ever since. No sagging of the slide room or noticeable wear. I think this is probably the desired fix. The plates only help when slide is in but rollers work both when in and out.
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Old 10-10-2015, 09:18 AM   #30
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When we had our slide issue they were installing the plates on the Berkshire and I asked if this would correct our problem. The answer Forest river gave me is that it would not fix it.

Forest River installed two more rollers to better distribute the weight of the slide and has worked great ever since. No sagging of the slide room or noticeable wear. I think this is probably the desired fix. The plates only help when slide is in but rollers work both when in and out.
Are the plates the length of the full travel? Can extra rollers be purchased by us? I'd go to my dealer but have had zero support from them even with an issue as small as needing a small drain tube.
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