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Old 05-17-2015, 09:04 AM   #171
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I bought the Bauer EM Model. This one works for motorized RVs. it has the dual pin latches that are required by law.

Here is the link:
Bauer Products - Bauer EM

list price is 399.00 but you can get it way cheaper than that. I bought mine from eBay for 219.00 including shipping. Well valued upgrade.

The tricky piece of this installation is that you have to remove the baseplate from the door along with the entire lock to get the lock out. It will not release unless you do it.

Next tricky piece is after you do the install based on the video instruction, you will have to shave the door trim on the outside to get the handle to engage with the strike plate. If you do not shave it, the door hits against the trim and will not close. I used a Roto Zip with a diamond tile bit to shave the metal down on the door frame so that the door could engage with the strike place.

Final tricky part is that you have to remove the inside door trim to get to the spacing gap between the door and the RV. This is where the strike plate lives. This is easy as you remove the button covers and the screw is underneath. You have to remove the original strike plate and replace it with the Bauer edition. It is a bit tough to get out by prying the gap open with a screwdriver as the video suggests--in fact does not work all that well. i used a screwdriver and a hammer to force the strike plate out after removing all that other stuff. Once it is out, it is a breeze to put the new one in place and tighten down. I took a few more pics and will post so that you can see what I am talking about.

Here are the pics as promised:
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:12 PM   #172
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Irob, saw the pic of your screen door grille. How did you attach the bottom right corner in light of the step switch magnet being in the way?
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:56 PM   #173
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Irob, saw the pic of your screen door grille. How did you attach the bottom right corner in light of the step switch magnet being in the way?

Velcro. You have to move the bottom over so that it fits within the screen engaging with door frame. The screw won't work so I attached some Velcro there that was a bit wider than the edge of the frame of the screen and attached it. Used an exacto knife to trim it so the screen closes as it did before I put on the guard.
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:04 PM   #174
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Thanks! Good job! I knew someone would figure that out! Glad I didn't send my wiring kit/light back to Amazon.

Here are the pics about attaching the sweep and where it works best.
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:06 PM   #175
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Legacy mods and improvements

Added Bluetooth to the Jensen radio. Works great and is easy as pie to install Click image for larger version

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Can play music without the wires.
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:08 PM   #176
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First big mods for me: Progressive Industries power management system and 3 roof vent covers.

I use surge guard but that looks sweet! Nice work!
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:38 PM   #177
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Originally Posted by lrob View Post
Velcro. You have to move the bottom over so that it fits within the screen engaging with door frame. The screw won't work so I attached some Velcro there that was a bit wider than the edge of the frame of the screen and attached it. Used an exacto knife to trim it so the screen closes as it did before I put on the guard.
Thanks! Will give velcro a go.
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:56 PM   #178
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:42 PM   #179
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Thanks for the pic.
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Old 05-29-2015, 07:38 PM   #180
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Odd, we have about 3.75 inches off ground. We do get a slight rub of muffler pipe on the most uneven of surface . You should have a d-ring at receiver 2-3links and the flap hook. Cut the links with bolt cutter. Don't worry about a slight pipe rub. I've seen a lot of coaches with pretty rough looking flaps from that.

Here are some more photos of my rear sweep install. Close up on the muffler Click image for larger version

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Mine is a buckled due to my air bags that did not fully inflate and my flap was resting against the muffler. Bad solenoid. I have no issues with rubbing.
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