2015 Shasta Airflyte 16 - Problem No 1

[DCSconnect]

I’m new to the RV world and decided that the 2015 Shasta Airflyte 16 re-issue would be my chance to have a little beach getaway in a classic vintage looking TT, so I took the plunge and delivery back in November.
Since that time I’ve been discovering a few things wrong. Some are minor build-quality related, some design issues and one or two could possibly be major flaws – you can decide. It’s also possible that your unit may have been built differently and not have any of the issues I’ve found. I hope that’s true. But I also hope by posting this I can share what I’ve learned and give others a chance to check their unit for the same problems.
One problem I consider major involves the installation of the little Air conditioner. Two points here – first there is no filter to keep the coils from getting clogged. This is easily solved by buying and cutting to size the foam filters available everywhere. While you’re looking at the front of the A/C unit, you may also want to be sure they didn’t break the Styrofoam guide surrounding the air outlet. Mine was broken and bent back on the right hand side, which just would have allowed the cold air to get sucked back thru the condenser down below. Second point – and to me this is a MAJOR issue – check your condensate drain path from the drip pan. Mine were just three holes drilled from under the trailer and through the subfloor, laminate and metal drip pan. That’s it, nothing to keep the water from soaking the subfloor or getting in between the layers of material. I see this as a potential long term failure point – a place for floors to start warping, wood to rot and mold / mildew to fester. I fixed all of these holes by putting in real drains and using waterproof sealant, but am left wondering if Shasta really thought this was a good way to drain condensate, or if someone in the factory just didn’t do their job? This fix was accomplished by removing the outside vent, so I “fixed” the vent to bug proof it by installing screen on the backside. I also sealed the area around the A/C unit – gaping holes that would have let the hot air go under the sink and back to the interior – as well as put stress relief around the electrical wires pulled thru holes in the cabinet. One last thing; I made sure the A/C electrical power cord wasn’t lying in the condensate drain pan (the way I found it) so it wouldn’t get soaked when I run the A/C.
Then it was on to the next problem….

[burkhall]

Thanks very much for this information. Any chance you could post some pics as I will need to do the same to my trailer when it arrives?

[DouglasLive]

Agree with Laurel, pictures would be extremely helpful. Thanks in advance!

I can't imagine Shasta intended for the AC to be installed this way. I'll have to pull the vent and take a look at ours. I know our AC pan wasn't sealed on all four sides, an issue the dealer fixed, but holes through the floor?! Unbelievable.

We also have an issue with the fan meant to vent hot air from the AC compartment; it runs constantly when the outside temp rises, with or without the AC running. It eventually stops once temps drop, but clearly the thermostat is misplaced.

How about your AC performance in general? Ours was terrible on a day when temps were in the low 70s. Also, we found the glass in the Hehr windows is not at all energy efficient, letting in all kinds of heat. We've since had all windows tinted with high quality house film.

[DouglasLive]

Meant to add...what was the "next problem?"

[msobvious]

I would like to see pictures of this problem and the fix. This sounds like a QC issue.

[DCSconnect]

Sorry for the long absence. I'll try and post pics by the weekend but at this point all you'll really see are the pvc pipes hanging from under the trailer (the ones I installed) with the foam sealant and plugs on the end. I've put it all back together - sorry no pics of the interior compartment with the vent removed. There are probably a hundred ways to fix this problem, but you will have to remove he exterior vent cover to get to the interior.

As for questions about A/C performance and exterior fan - I'm not sure yet. It has been cold since taking possession and I haven't actually used the A/C.

And the next problem I'll discuss is about the bathroom. If you never plan to use the shower you'll be ok, otherwise you will have issues.

[KimberlyLuckettCurry]

Mark Lucas, President of Shasta shared this information with me.

If the fan isn't working/running as designed the a/c will not cool. The fan was added to exhaust the air behind the air conditioner.
The thermostatic switch is not "stuck" and SHOULD NOT be replaced; it is set to turn the fan on between 68 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. It is intended to exhaust the warm air behind the air conditioner. If you add a “new switch” yourself and the “new switch” doesn't turn on until 104 degrees, the air conditioner will not work properly because the fan will not exhaust the hot air.
Again, if the fan isn't working as designed the a/c will not cool. The fan was added to exhaust the air behind the air conditioner. If it is over 70 degrees inside the RV; wherever the thermostat is placed, the fan is going to run. It is a computer fan that you can barely hear. It is quieter than the converter fan. Before making any changes to your RV yourself always consult your dealership and Warranty Coverage.

[DouglasLive]

Just one drain underneath ours...

[DCSconnect]

I've had a few folks want pictures of the condensate drains. These are located directly under the side vent shown, and the second pic shows how I addressed the problem. (BTW you'll know if you have this issue by sticking your fingers up through the three holes the factory drilled - you can feel the wood, laminate and lip of the metal drain pan.) I created a drain tube using pvc parts / pieces, with the top end having a fitting that fit flush against the metal pan. After making the drain i.e. gluing those parts together I coated both the tube and hole with a poly roof sealant and “pushed” the drain from above (behind that vent) down through the hole. I let it set and dry, then screwed end caps on it (after drilling small holes in the cap to drain the water). I should mention though that I did have to drill the holes out a little so the PVC pipe would fit when pushing it down.

[DouglasLive]

So weird. I've confirmed with at least one other person who only has one drain hole. What's your reissue #?

[DCSconnect]

Thanks, but as I am waiting on warranty replacement of other items I'd rather not say. If you want to post yours I'd be glad to tell you higher or lower though. I feel it is already going to be hard enough to get the items as it is......so your's came with that pipe already installed?

[DouglasLive]

Yep, already installed. #407

[DCSconnect]

My build number is after you........so obviously they knew the RIGHT way to do this and chose not to do that. So if I am not the only one with this problem I think I smell a slew of potential lawsuits coming Berkshire Hathaway's direction for everything from the simple "replace my trailer because the floor is rotted out" to the more complex black mold health related issues. They really need a QC department..........seriously.

[DouglasLive]

Not at all surprising.

[msobvious]

Another item for the checklist. Thanks for sharing. You guys rock.

[DouglasLive]

Question is, which trailer is correct? One hole WiTH tube installed, or three holes WITHOUT tubes which SHOULD HAVE tubes?

[DCSconnect]

I'm pretty sure you don't want water running down thru an open hole in your floor, soaking the wood and getting between the laminate and sub-floor so my guess is any tube is better than none, no matter how many holes!

[DCSconnect]

I've made some changes to the A/C installation, with credit going to a lot of other folks who've "experimented" with ways to get the A/C working to the point where it will actually cool the trailer down as required. While I've not tested on one of our HOT days (typically in the 90's with 90% humidity) it did work much better with outside temps in the 80's.

I did three major changes:

1. Installed a switch for actually controlling the little exhaust fan as opposed to it being controlled based on ambient temps (it would come on even when it was only 70 degf outside).
2. I "boxed" the A/C outlet and insulated surrounding cabinetry using Owens Corning Foamular boards (because I could get them at Home Depot!)
3. I purchased online a new Dometic hinged refrigerator vent door and replaced the small, restrictive vent installed by Shasta.

Pics are below, here's hoping it continues to work when we do hit the summer highs (but I'm convinced it can;t be any worse than what came from the factory).

[DouglasLive]

Doing the same AC mod this weekend. Was the Dometic door a direct swap? Got a link you where you purchased? Or at least part #?

Thanks for the pictures!

[DouglasLive]

What's the purpose of the PVC pipe?