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Old 03-01-2015, 12:14 AM   #11
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Newbie to camping just bought a Shasta 16'

I beg to differ about the AC fan noise. It's very loud and will run half the night, keeping you awake. I don't understand why it needs to run when the AC is off, but it it sure does. My local RV shop says the AC won't work as installed and I agree, as we tried it with outside temps in the low 70s and it didn't cool the trailer at all.

As for warranty work, I've decided it's best to find a shop you trust and just pay for the work yourself. Shasta will only approve fixes using methods already shown to be faulty, for example the foam gaskets used to seal the windows should be replaced with butyl tape, but good luck getting Shasta to approve that.
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Old 03-01-2015, 12:25 AM   #12
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Meant to add, you might ask why the trailer was hot with outside temps in the low 70s. Mainly because the Hehr windows aren't energy efficient in the least. A little direct sun and it's like an oven inside. We have since tinted all the glass with high quality home window tint, which will reject over 80% of the solar heat. Highly recommended.
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Old 03-01-2015, 12:56 AM   #13
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Newbie to camping just bought a Shasta 16'

A direct quote illustrating the "we might fix it, we might not" nature of your warranty. This in regards to the silver stripe not lining up:

"You can take pictures with a measurement of how far "off" the stripe may be and have a conversation with your dealership but it is subjective whether or not it will be covered by your warranty. "

Find a good, local, independent shop and take charge of your destiny. Either that or prepare to enter an endless back/forth with the manufacturer, conducted through your dealer, at the end of which you will probably lose and pay anyway.
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Old 03-01-2015, 01:05 AM   #14
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Newbie to camping just bought a Shasta 16'

One more thing since it was mentioned on this thread. There is no way to tell whether your rear window has the "adhesive issue" until it dislodges and starts to fall out. Ours was fine at delivery back in early December, but now is starting to come loose. So to say that all you need do is open and close to see if it's okay....absolutely not true.

Since Shasta didn't think it necessary to notify customers, we are left wondering exactly when this "new" adhesive was put into use. Best I can tell, the discovery happened north of unit 571. As for me, I'm paying my local shop to remove the adhesive, clean and prep the surfaces, and reglue as part of removing the foam gasket and re-sealing my leaky rear window with butyl tape.
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Old 03-01-2015, 12:46 PM   #15
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Thanks for all of the info DouglasLive. It is much appreciated
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Old 03-02-2015, 12:28 AM   #16
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Issues with my 2015 Airflyte

Just sharing my list to date so others might learn and be aware.

Knowledge is power!

Entire front panel damaged in shipment (replaced by dealer)
Wheel wells not sealed (fixed by dealer)
Bed supports inadequate (fixed by dealer)
No Velcro to hold front cushions (fixed by dealer)
Silver stripe misaligned (replacement received from dealer)
Missing grab handle (dealer supplied, local shop installing)
Warped cabinet doors (accepted as-is rather than enter "puzzle piece" lottery)
Battery cable connectors loose, fell off! (fixed by local shop)
Rear window leak (local shop resealing with butyl tape)
Rear window adhesive failure (local shop fixing)
Screen door not aligned properly (personal fix)
Substandard upholstery, poor fit, amatuer sewing (accepted, will replace with custom)
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasLive View Post
I beg to differ about the AC fan noise. It's very loud and will run half the night, keeping you awake. I don't understand why it needs to run when the AC is off, but it it sure does. My local RV shop says the AC won't work as installed and I agree, as we tried it with outside temps in the low 70s and it didn't cool the trailer at all.

As for warranty work, I've decided it's best to find a shop you trust and just pay for the work yourself. Shasta will only approve fixes using methods already shown to be faulty, for example the foam gaskets used to seal the windows should be replaced with butyl tape, but good luck getting Shasta to approve that.
DouglasLive - I had a chance to "test" the A/C recently when temps rose into the low 70's. While mine seemed to cool ok, the little cabinet above became extremely "warm" after running the A/C for about 30 min. I turned the A/C off shortly thereafter, but that little exhaust fan you refer to above kept running - and running - and running. Five hours later with it blowing cool air thru the outside vent I finally killed power to it to stop it. When I threw the breaker back on an hour later, the fan came back on - I was convinced the temperature relay was stuck. It wasn't until the following morning (temps in the 40s) that I could put power back on and the fan stayed off.

My question - has your local RV shop made any suggestions for improving this A/C installation? Can you explain / share pics if possible? My fear is that if it performed this way with exterior temps in the low 70s I think when we hit the 90s this A/C is going to be hard pressed to work as advertised. Thanks for all your advice, help and information - I think you are ahead of most of us in your "experience"!
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:59 AM   #18
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The AC exhaust fan (what I'm calling it) is thermostat controlled. It cuts on between 68-70 degrees regardless of whether the AC is running or not. Yes, it's annoying as can be and will keep you up nights. The second run of trailers actually have an on/off switch inside the coach to control the fan, so obviously Shasta realized it was a poor design. I'm having my local shop install a switch at my own cost.

As for the AC in general, this is the next "shoe to drop" for these Airflytes, windows falling out being the first. It's clear the AC compartment needs baffleing to separate the hot air exhausted from the back of the unit and the ambient air coming in to the top and sides. The above fan is meant to assist in pushing the hot air out, but with the current configuration/placement, it's not doing much. Take a look at this page for more information on AC installs in vintage campers:

Vintage Trailer Air Conditioning Solutions | National Serro Scotty Organization

Of particular note is the solution installed on current Scotty trailers:

Kerola's Trailer A/C Solution | National Serro Scotty Organization

My local shop said "You know, we can make it perform better by installing some baffling to separate the air flows in the rear, but it's probably a 5 hour job and we're wary of charging you $500 for a fix that might only make it perform *marginally* better." I appreciated their honesty. The plan is to wait a bit, see how things play out with Shasta. Perhaps they'll come up with a fix or maybe some enterprising owner will devise a brilliant solution no one has considered. Until then, the heavy duty tint on the windows will be welcome. In the meantime, I may take measurements and buy some sheet metal.
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Old 03-18-2015, 09:27 PM   #19
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Thanks once again for the excellent info DouglasLive. I didn't know about the exhaust fan switch being added on the 2nd run. I really liked the Scotty link and I think it might point out our flaw, that being that the little vent installed for the hot air exhaust is too restrictive to allow the correct air flow to get the heat out (as compared to Scotty's using a wide open / unrestricted door.) If I could find a similar "door" the exact same size as our vent I'd buy it and replace that vent in a heartbeat.
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Old 03-20-2015, 12:32 AM   #20
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I know an Airflyte owner who plans to do just that, replace the vent with a door, among other changes. He's an engineer, so if anyone can make the AC work, he can. I'll share his solution here when he's done.
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