Newbie to camping just bought a Shasta 16'

[rdami]

Hi. Glad to finally have found a post specific to the 61 Shasta re-issue
So excited to have our new camper but already having problems which delayed us from our first trip. Hail from CA purchased from Terry Town, MI. Trailer towed not on flat bed truck. Never able to get a formal inspection of the ins and out upon purchase. Upon delivery special light bulb for Edison style light broken. Took over 3 months to get one shipped. Major problem with lights not turning on and battery kept dying. Tried calling various RV dealers local to my location but none would touch warranty work. Called Shasta company and was given 3 locations, closest one 180 miles away. Took it to them (had appt) and they almost refused work as they did not sell this model and we did not buy the TT from them. They figured out that the lights did not work because the fuse connectors were loose in the converter box and unbenounced to us we were disconnecting the break away cable when we parked the trailer (we were never told not to) and it was draining the battery. We will be adding a battery disconnect switch which should help.While trailer was being worked on read about the problem with the bed and shower. RV shop said our bathroom was fine and they did not want to open up window to seal it because they thought they would make the problem worse, they never touched the bed. My husband added wood after seeing the picture (thanks!) and we added to jacks under the table for added support. Can't wait to get away

[Flybob]

One word of caution on the battery disconnect switch. You need to make sure you remember to turn it on before towing, The breakaway brake system will not work with the battery disconnected.

[KimberlyLuckettCurry]

Q - How do I test to see if my Hehr windows are secure and do not need to be replaced?
A - During the first phase of production it was discovered the the window vendor Hehr did not use the correct Adhesive for some of their windows that were sold to Shasta. Most dealerships are testing the windows during their PDI prep but as a consumer you may want to also test them. While at the dealership ask to have your Emergency window opened and closed to discover if it is secure. You may want to open and close all of your windows to test if they are working well. If you need a window replacement it is 100% covered in your first year warranty. The dealership may use a Urethane adhesive or have a replacement trim ordered for your RV.

I strongly recommend working with a dealership to take care of any service needs especially during your first year or while you have a warranty.

Q - My fan is running do I need to replace it or move the thermostat?
A - Mark Lucas 2/8
If the fan isn't working/running as designed the a/c will not cool. The fan was added to exhaust the air behind the air conditioner.
The thermostatic switch is not "stuck" and SHOULD NOT be replaced; it is set to turn the fan on between 68 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. It is intended to exhaust the warm air behind the air conditioner. If you add a “new switch” yourself and the “new switch” doesn't turn on until 104 degrees, the air conditioner will not work properly because the fan will not exhaust the hot air.
Again, if the fan isn't working as designed the a/c will not cool. The fan was added to exhaust the air behind the air conditioner. If it is over 70 degrees inside the RV; wherever the thermostat is placed, the fan is going to run. It is a computer fan that you can barely hear. It is quieter than the converter fan. Before making any changes to your RV yourself always consult your dealership and Warranty Coverage.

[rdami]

Was surprised not to find an actual owners manual specific for the '61 Airflyte re-issue. The manual that did come was interesting (and I will say a little overwhelming for this newbie) but it was really not specific enough to the ins and outs of the Airflyte. As I am new to camping and owning, it would have been most helpful.
When my husband went to pick up our trailer from the shop he was given a tour.
I plan on putting together my own "manual of sorts" and post pictures with descriptions.
Has anyone seen or have information specific to this trailer?
Thanks

[Platokidd]

Originally Posted by Flybob

One word of caution on the battery disconnect switch. You need to make sure you remember to turn it on before towing, The breakaway brake system will not work with the battery disconnected.

It may be possible to wire the disconnect so the brakes and breakaway brake system always have power when needed. My lacrosse disconnect works like that plus the power jack works.

[KimberlyLuckettCurry]

rdmi, You are correct there is not a 2015 Airflyte Owners Manual per say. Much like when you buy appliances the owners manual covers several models. When you purchase the Airflyte you will have a packet of manauals for the trailer that are spefic to the Airflyte. It's really all you need along with your warranty information.

Q - Is there an App for that?
A - Yes, Shasta Owners Manual 2015 https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...striver.Shasta

[rdami]

Thank you for getting back with responses.
Looking for anyone on this forum who hails from Southern CA (We live in Valencia). Other than Camping World, would like to know of other RV shops that 1. work on Airflytes 2. do warranty work and 3. would work on an Airflyte even if I did not buy from them.

[asquared]

Sadly you found the hidden issue with not buying local. If you were pulling the breakaway cable might want to get your trailer brakes checked to make sure you didn't do any damage from extended use. Get a battery disconnect switch to help preserve battery life. I hope you have found d all the bugs in your trailer and have many wonderful trips coming your way.

[Terier]

Congrats on your new Airflyte! Some members have encountered challenges trying to get warranty work or services provided on an unit brought elsewhere. You might try contacting FR for SoCal locations that are familiar with the Airflyte and/or willing to do work on your unit.

[davel1971]

the break away switch and tongue jack are always wired to work then the disconnect switch is off. Allows you to hook to and tow without remembering to turn on. And for obvious safety reasons.

[DouglasLive]

I beg to differ about the AC fan noise. It's very loud and will run half the night, keeping you awake. I don't understand why it needs to run when the AC is off, but it it sure does. My local RV shop says the AC won't work as installed and I agree, as we tried it with outside temps in the low 70s and it didn't cool the trailer at all.

As for warranty work, I've decided it's best to find a shop you trust and just pay for the work yourself. Shasta will only approve fixes using methods already shown to be faulty, for example the foam gaskets used to seal the windows should be replaced with butyl tape, but good luck getting Shasta to approve that.

[DouglasLive]

Meant to add, you might ask why the trailer was hot with outside temps in the low 70s. Mainly because the Hehr windows aren't energy efficient in the least. A little direct sun and it's like an oven inside. We have since tinted all the glass with high quality home window tint, which will reject over 80% of the solar heat. Highly recommended.

[DouglasLive]

A direct quote illustrating the "we might fix it, we might not" nature of your warranty. This in regards to the silver stripe not lining up:

"You can take pictures with a measurement of how far "off" the stripe may be and have a conversation with your dealership but it is subjective whether or not it will be covered by your warranty. "

Find a good, local, independent shop and take charge of your destiny. Either that or prepare to enter an endless back/forth with the manufacturer, conducted through your dealer, at the end of which you will probably lose and pay anyway.

[DouglasLive]

One more thing since it was mentioned on this thread. There is no way to tell whether your rear window has the "adhesive issue" until it dislodges and starts to fall out. Ours was fine at delivery back in early December, but now is starting to come loose. So to say that all you need do is open and close to see if it's okay....absolutely not true.

Since Shasta didn't think it necessary to notify customers, we are left wondering exactly when this "new" adhesive was put into use. Best I can tell, the discovery happened north of unit 571. As for me, I'm paying my local shop to remove the adhesive, clean and prep the surfaces, and reglue as part of removing the foam gasket and re-sealing my leaky rear window with butyl tape.

[dkcrown]

Thanks for all of the info DouglasLive. It is much appreciated

[DouglasLive]

Just sharing my list to date so others might learn and be aware.

Knowledge is power!

Entire front panel damaged in shipment (replaced by dealer)
Wheel wells not sealed (fixed by dealer)
Bed supports inadequate (fixed by dealer)
No Velcro to hold front cushions (fixed by dealer)
Silver stripe misaligned (replacement received from dealer)
Missing grab handle (dealer supplied, local shop installing)
Warped cabinet doors (accepted as-is rather than enter "puzzle piece" lottery)
Battery cable connectors loose, fell off! (fixed by local shop)
Rear window leak (local shop resealing with butyl tape)
Rear window adhesive failure (local shop fixing)
Screen door not aligned properly (personal fix)
Substandard upholstery, poor fit, amatuer sewing (accepted, will replace with custom)

[DCSconnect]

Originally Posted by DouglasLive

I beg to differ about the AC fan noise. It's very loud and will run half the night, keeping you awake. I don't understand why it needs to run when the AC is off, but it it sure does. My local RV shop says the AC won't work as installed and I agree, as we tried it with outside temps in the low 70s and it didn't cool the trailer at all.

As for warranty work, I've decided it's best to find a shop you trust and just pay for the work yourself. Shasta will only approve fixes using methods already shown to be faulty, for example the foam gaskets used to seal the windows should be replaced with butyl tape, but good luck getting Shasta to approve that.

DouglasLive - I had a chance to "test" the A/C recently when temps rose into the low 70's. While mine seemed to cool ok, the little cabinet above became extremely "warm" after running the A/C for about 30 min. I turned the A/C off shortly thereafter, but that little exhaust fan you refer to above kept running - and running - and running. Five hours later with it blowing cool air thru the outside vent I finally killed power to it to stop it. When I threw the breaker back on an hour later, the fan came back on - I was convinced the temperature relay was stuck. It wasn't until the following morning (temps in the 40s) that I could put power back on and the fan stayed off.

My question - has your local RV shop made any suggestions for improving this A/C installation? Can you explain / share pics if possible? My fear is that if it performed this way with exterior temps in the low 70s I think when we hit the 90s this A/C is going to be hard pressed to work as advertised. Thanks for all your advice, help and information - I think you are ahead of most of us in your "experience"!

[DouglasLive]

The AC exhaust fan (what I'm calling it) is thermostat controlled. It cuts on between 68-70 degrees regardless of whether the AC is running or not. Yes, it's annoying as can be and will keep you up nights. The second run of trailers actually have an on/off switch inside the coach to control the fan, so obviously Shasta realized it was a poor design. I'm having my local shop install a switch at my own cost.

As for the AC in general, this is the next "shoe to drop" for these Airflytes, windows falling out being the first. It's clear the AC compartment needs baffleing to separate the hot air exhausted from the back of the unit and the ambient air coming in to the top and sides. The above fan is meant to assist in pushing the hot air out, but with the current configuration/placement, it's not doing much. Take a look at this page for more information on AC installs in vintage campers:

Vintage Trailer Air Conditioning Solutions | National Serro Scotty Organization

Of particular note is the solution installed on current Scotty trailers:

Kerola's Trailer A/C Solution | National Serro Scotty Organization

My local shop said "You know, we can make it perform better by installing some baffling to separate the air flows in the rear, but it's probably a 5 hour job and we're wary of charging you $500 for a fix that might only make it perform *marginally* better." I appreciated their honesty. The plan is to wait a bit, see how things play out with Shasta. Perhaps they'll come up with a fix or maybe some enterprising owner will devise a brilliant solution no one has considered. Until then, the heavy duty tint on the windows will be welcome. In the meantime, I may take measurements and buy some sheet metal.

[DCSconnect]

Thanks once again for the excellent info DouglasLive. I didn't know about the exhaust fan switch being added on the 2nd run. I really liked the Scotty link and I think it might point out our flaw, that being that the little vent installed for the hot air exhaust is too restrictive to allow the correct air flow to get the heat out (as compared to Scotty's using a wide open / unrestricted door.) If I could find a similar "door" the exact same size as our vent I'd buy it and replace that vent in a heartbeat.

[DouglasLive]

I know an Airflyte owner who plans to do just that, replace the vent with a door, among other changes. He's an engineer, so if anyone can make the AC work, he can. I'll share his solution here when he's done.