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Old 04-19-2019, 05:50 PM   #1
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2016pup 16BHS Build Thread

Hi All,

I wanted to begin sharing some mods and upgrades we have need doing or are going to do on our 2016 16BHS. Comments and questions welcomed!

One of our first mods was to add a tv. Not the easiest thing to do on a 2016 as there arenít any provisions for one close to the cable antenna hookup. Here is what we came up with:

17Ē DVD combo mounted to side of cabinet
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Once installed we realized the speakers were less than adequate so we wanted to have the tv play through the radio. But there are no hookups for this on a 2016 so we had to run our own RCA cables. Not wanting to drill any holes we came up with this approach:

Used a cable raceway stuck to the ceiling and ran the cable over and into the cabinet and over to the radio
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Next we wanted to update/add lighting under the cabinets for the kitchen. Over the counter area we simply added a rechargeable led light from amazon:
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Over the stove we replaced the stock bulb with an led bulb which made it brighter but still not quite bright enough. Luckily we bought a 2 pack so we got another socket wired in and voila:
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Thatís it for now. Stayed tuned for more upgrades later this weekend!

Thomas & Jessica
2016 Wolf Pup 16BHS
GMC Canyon, 3.6 v6, tow package
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Old 04-19-2019, 09:26 PM   #2
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Nice upgrade. My 2019 has the awning, exterior lights, and television connection on the cabinet side you mounted your TV to. I initially installed mine in the same place you did. People kept getting their heads gouged on the TV. I've since moved it to the foot of the bed wall on the other side of the door. Unfortunately the factory FAILED to place a power outlet anywhere else on that side of the trailer other than by the stove! I ran a power strip from that to that same cabinet wall. I used a lot of command strip hooks for power cordage.

Sometimes I think there is no standard wire placement guide for the assembly techs. Or plans of any kind. Whoever is working that day does whatever they feel like that day! My 16BHS has differences with every other 2019 16BHS I've seen reviewed on eBay. And most of them are different from each other.
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Old 04-25-2019, 03:32 PM   #3
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A bit more done this past weekend....

New 5k lb scissor jacks installed on the front. Moved a little further back on the gram than the stickers to be more in the middle of the bed.
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Secured with two 3/8 bolts and two self tapping screws per side. Much more sturdy than the way the old ones where mounted.
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Also got an 8Ē tongue jack extension so I donít have to use so many blocks or non at all on a hard surface. Still need to drill the hole on the tongue jack a bit bigger for the supplies clip but this bolt will do for now.
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And thatís all for now. This coming month we will probably look at doing tires and maybe a few other small things. Stay tuned!
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Old 04-25-2019, 05:53 PM   #4
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Do the new front stabilizers replace the old ones or are they used along with the original front ones?
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:08 AM   #5
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Quote:
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Do the new front stabilizers replace the old ones or are they used along with the original front ones?
I removed the original ones and mounted these new ones. I think the originals were 2.5k lb from what I can tell and where mounted with self taping screws only and the passenger side one had been bent from hitting something by the PO.

So these new ones are 5k lb and I mounted them a bit further back to create a "triangle" with the tongue jack under the bed and I also used much better mounting hardware as well.

I have two more to replace the rear jacks but that will take a bit more time because I plan to mount them as far back on the frame as possible which will require cutting off the skid bars. May start tonight if weather holds.....
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Old 04-26-2019, 07:06 PM   #6
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Look out for the rear left. On my 16BHS, if the left rear stabilizer was opposite the right's original position, the left would wind up into and rub against the black tank. No holes there, please ;(
I have rubbed those skid triangles before. Without them I could have damaged a stabilizer.
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Old 04-26-2019, 08:53 PM   #7
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Nice job on your mods!
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:36 AM   #8
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I was able to get a bit more done this past weekend.

Rear skid bars cut off and frame painted:
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Rear stabilizer jacks mounted as far back on the frame as possible (only took a pic of the drivers side to show by dump valve but pass side in same location):
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Now I’m trying to decide on protection for the jacks and dump valve. One option is caster wheels mounted to rear bumper but I’m not sure if that’s necessary as the trailer does not have a huge overhang. My main concern is dropping the wheel in a pothole and smashing the dump valve on the ground. I have looked for a “dump valve skid plate” but haven’t really seen anything. May have to come up with a home brew solution....
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomerweps View Post
Look out for the rear left. On my 16BHS, if the left rear stabilizer was opposite the right's original position, the left would wind up into and rub against the black tank. No holes there, please ;(
I have rubbed those skid triangles before. Without them I could have damaged a stabilizer.
Yeah, I am thinking some caster wheels on the rear bumper to help with overhang but I am more concerned about dropping a wheel in a pothole and smashing the dump valve. Still dont have a good solution for this yet....

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Nice job on your mods!
Thanks!
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Old 04-30-2019, 02:50 PM   #10
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A metal hoop welded in front of the stabilizer around the bottom of the dump pipe to the front might work.
I'm leaning towards dropping my axle to under the springs from the original on top to gain 4" or more clearance.
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Old 04-30-2019, 03:07 PM   #11
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A metal hoop welded in front of the stabilizer around the bottom of the dump pipe to the front might work.
I'm leaning towards dropping my axle to under the springs from the original on top to gain 4" or more clearance.
The axle flip is a good idea although I wonder how that will affect the stability when towing, especially in wind?

I actually have a JEGS universal driveshaft hoop kit laying around that I thought about using the bottom part around the pipe and screwed to the frame but I think this would really only protect the pipe because it doesnt quite hang down as low as the valve. The valve is what I am really concerned about. However, I suppose it can be replaced if I ever do break it....

We aren't going off road with it or anything but lots of potholes here in Michigan
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Old 04-30-2019, 06:52 PM   #12
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Amazon Dexter Conversion Kit K7138400 for our single axle. Haven't bit the bullet on this yet.
Do a search on RV forums on "flipping an axle". That's what it gets commonly called but since a trailer axle may have a designed slight arch, it gets mounted below the springs in the same orientation it was in while on top of the springs, hence the conversion kit.
The posters that I've read had similar concerns but nobody mentioned any stability problems.
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Old 04-30-2019, 07:02 PM   #13
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Been cross country and never saw the need for more clearance...but did gain a little when I went to 15" car radials.
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Old 05-01-2019, 11:35 AM   #14
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I have thought about going up to a 15" wheel to have a better tire selection but don't see the point as long as its only a 3500lb axle. Has anyone upgraded to a bigger axle on one of these? I imagine it would be difficult to find given the width is not as common as the wider utility trailers and car haulers. Would love to swap a 4500lb axle in there so it actually give some margin for the listed GVWR.....
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Old 05-01-2019, 12:30 PM   #15
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Nice, professional-looking mods!
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Old 05-01-2019, 02:12 PM   #16
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I have thought about going up to a 15" wheel to have a better tire selection but don't see the point as long as its only a 3500lb axle. Has anyone upgraded to a bigger axle on one of these? I imagine it would be difficult to find given the width is not as common as the wider utility trailers and car haulers. Would love to swap a 4500lb axle in there so it actually give some margin for the listed GVWR.....
Don't know if we referenced this in this thread but the Wolf Pup GTWR is predicated on the factory tongue weight carried by the TV.
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Old 05-01-2019, 03:21 PM   #17
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I have thought about going up to a 15" wheel to have a better tire selection but don't see the point as long as its only a 3500lb axle. ~~~~.....
I like to run car tires on my Pup. Cross country was with passenger radial 14's rated at 1,664. With the 15's, I'm at 2,028 (because I had them handy from a boat trailer rebuild). I'm not anal about following the specs, I never drive over 55 and always run with TPMS.
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Old 05-02-2019, 11:02 AM   #18
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Nice, professional-looking mods!
Thank you! Trying to do the best I can drilling as few holes as possible

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Don't know if we referenced this in this thread but the Wolf Pup GTWR is predicated on the factory tongue weight carried by the TV.
You are correct! I always think of it in terms of a vehicle and forget the truck carries some of the weight!

Quote:
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I like to run car tires on my Pup. Cross country was with passenger radial 14's rated at 1,664. With the 15's, I'm at 2,028 (because I had them handy from a boat trailer rebuild). I'm not anal about following the specs, I never drive over 55 and always run with TPMS.
Interesting. I decided we will keep the 14s for now. Getting some 215/75 Goodyear Endurance put on this Saturday before our next, longer trip to the north. Still have the factory Castle Rocks from 2016 on there so figured we were pushing our luck based on time.....
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Old 05-04-2019, 06:05 PM   #19
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Got some new shoes today!

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Old 05-07-2019, 07:14 AM   #20
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Mods are looking good! We've been modding ours this spring to get it ready for a long trip.

Could you give a link or part number to the LED bulb that fits under the range hood? I took mine out and lost it so I have no reference. Thanks in advance.
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