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10-13-2011, 02:09 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Austin, Tx area
Posts: 126
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Battery power???
We just bought our first TT - 2001 Cherokee 25' (Plate w/ model #
missing). Lots of hidden problems, but that's another story.
The problem I'm dealing with now is battery power.....
Installed a fresh battery and cleaned the connectors. Am getting 12vdc
on the leads at the battery, but no battery power inside. Checked the
distribution panel and found the input battery leads dead. Is it possible
that there is a main battery disconnect on this TT?? If so, where would
it be. I've looked everywhere finding nothing...........
Does anyone know where it might be? I would appreciate any help.
(Would just climb under it and trace the cable, but the arthritis is
too much for this old coot.. .....)
cheers,
johnd
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10-13-2011, 02:22 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Saint Cloud FL
Posts: 1,565
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sounds like you have some sort of a disconnect or possibly a blown fuse or the isolator is bad
if you have a toner (we call them a fox and hound at work) you could disconnect the battery cable and tone out the cable too to find where it goes.
__________________
2011 Rockwood Mini Lite 2306 - Matt
2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Qaud Cab 4x4 with 35" tires and 3.92 gears, Dynatech Longtube Headers & Fabtech 6" lift + Superchips with shift Tuning
Nights Camped 2011 (37) - 2012 (16)-2013 (2) -2014 (5) -2015(0)
USMC 91 - 95 - F/A-18 Aviation Ordnance
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10-13-2011, 02:24 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 855
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Follow the + battery cable to where is disappears into the trailer. There should be a screwed on panel. Take it off and you will probably find an inline 30 amp fuse.
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10-13-2011, 02:25 PM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southeast Wisconsin
Posts: 6,949
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John, first of all - Welcome!
It possible that a battery disconnect was installed from the previous owner. Mine is hidden because its bolted to the tongue on the cross bracing.
It can be found fairly close to your battery if there is one that was installed by the owner.
You might also check for an in-line fuse between the positive on the battery and the converter.
Good luck.
__________________
Scott
DW, 3 Kids and our Goldens
2012 Shamrock 233S
2008 Toyota Sequoia 5.7L 4WD
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10-13-2011, 03:28 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Austin, Tx area
Posts: 126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherdep
sounds like you have some sort of a disconnect
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That's pretty much what I was asking. Does this TT have a battery
disconnect and where would it be?
[QUOTE=or possibly a blown fuse or the isolator is bad [/QUOTE]
There is no indication of a main fuse in the electrical panel.
Plenty of fuses for individual circuits, but I checked upstream - the
battery leads as they enter the panel.......
[QUOTE=if you have a toner (we call them a fox and hound at work) you could disconnect the battery cable and tone out the cable too to find where it goes.[/QUOTE]
Toner????
Would that be a continuity checker like a "buzz box" or ohmmeter?
I already know that the positive lead - at the battery - shows open
circuit to ground. IE no load resistance.......
cheers,
johnd
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10-13-2011, 03:31 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Austin, Tx area
Posts: 126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donn
Follow the + battery cable to where is disappears into the trailer. There should be a screwed on panel. Take it off and you will probably find an inline 30 amp fuse.
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The only panel that I can find is an electrical panel under the
fridge (inside TT). Battery lead goes under TT from battery....???
cheers,
johnd
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10-13-2011, 03:31 PM
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#7
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Check in your cupboard door above your sink there may be model designation there on a sticker
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10-13-2011, 03:36 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Austin, Tx area
Posts: 126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
Check in your cupboard door above your sink there may be model designation there on a sticker
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THANKS!!!
CKT27X
I guess that means that it's actually a 27 footer....
Hmmmm.
cheers,
johnd
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10-13-2011, 03:43 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Austin, Tx area
Posts: 126
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>John, first of all - Welcome!
Thank you; glad to be here!
>It possible that a battery disconnect was installed from the previous >owner. Mine is hidden because its bolted to the tongue on the cross >bracing.
Hoboy. If so there is no telling where it might be.
Nothing on the tongue.......
>It can be found fairly close to your battery if there is one that was >installed by the owner.
Nothing visible there......
>You might also check for an in-line fuse between the positive on the >battery and the converter.
Would that be under the TT or somewhere else.
Nothing in the positive lead on the tongue.
And the leads coming into the electrical panel don't show
anything........sigh....
>Good luck.
thanks again,
johnd
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10-13-2011, 05:28 PM
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#10
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnaraG_1M
THANKS!!!
CKT27X
I guess that means that it's actually a 27 footer....
Hmmmm.
cheers,
johnd
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The number in the model number doesn't hallways mean total length.
normally its the inside measurement.
I have 32 bhok-6 that 36 foot over all.
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10-13-2011, 05:53 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,845
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TT's rarely have battery disconnects from the factory. I've never heard of any FR trailers that do.
The most common cause of your type of issue, is a new owner crossing the battery wires when installing it.
This sets off a re-settable inline fuse that's located along the tongue, between the battery and the front of the trailer.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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10-14-2011, 09:05 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Austin, Tx area
Posts: 126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
The number in the model number doesn't hallways mean total length.
normally its the inside measurement.
I have 32 bhok-6 that 36 foot over all.
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Right.
Looking at manufacturer's model numbers, I hallways thought
that the number meant the length of the box - not overall
length.
Still haven't found what is stopping the battery power
from reaching the electrical panel. No fuse or switch in sight.
.....sigh.......
johnd
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10-14-2011, 09:20 AM
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#13
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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If you can't track down a fuse /circuit breaker or open wire than its time to run a new wire.
my flagstaff tt I used to have had a household metal junction box under the enclosed under body you had to take a flap off to access it.
otherwise I had a blown fuse once in the converter.
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10-14-2011, 09:58 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Austin, Tx area
Posts: 126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo
If you can't track down a fuse /circuit breaker or open wire than its time to run a new wire.
my flagstaff tt I used to have had a household metal junction box under the enclosed under body you had to take a flap off to access it.
otherwise I had a blown fuse once in the converter.
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Yah, I'm coming to suspect the answer must be under the TT.
With all the other problems this turkey has, maybe the battery
lead has been broken. [I have the converter switched off to
isolate the DC problems.]
Not being physically able to climb under it, I guess I'll wait till my
son comes to town for the holidays and ask him to climb under
and trace the wire......or string a new one if the old is not
easily repaired....
cheers,
johnd
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10-14-2011, 06:06 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Saint Cloud FL
Posts: 1,565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnaraG_1M
Yah, I'm coming to suspect the answer must be under the TT.
With all the other problems this turkey has, maybe the battery
lead has been broken. [I have the converter switched off to
isolate the DC problems.]
Not being physically able to climb under it, I guess I'll wait till my
son comes to town for the holidays and ask him to climb under
and trace the wire......or string a new one if the old is not
easily repaired....
cheers,
johnd
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If you were located near Orlando Florida - I would be more then willing to help ya out so ya didnt have to wait till your son comes in town
if you had a creepy crawly like they use on cars that might help ya get under it easier
__________________
2011 Rockwood Mini Lite 2306 - Matt
2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Qaud Cab 4x4 with 35" tires and 3.92 gears, Dynatech Longtube Headers & Fabtech 6" lift + Superchips with shift Tuning
Nights Camped 2011 (37) - 2012 (16)-2013 (2) -2014 (5) -2015(0)
USMC 91 - 95 - F/A-18 Aviation Ordnance
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10-14-2011, 09:51 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: south carolina
Posts: 133
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Im with bikendan, there is a small reset button, I had the same problem with my 5th wheel, mine was in my pinbox. reset and it works..
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10-15-2011, 05:45 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikendan
TT's rarely have battery disconnects from the factory. I've never heard of any FR trailers that do.
The most common cause of your type of issue, is a new owner crossing the battery wires when installing it.
This sets off a re-settable inline fuse that's located along the tongue, between the battery and the front of the trailer.
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x2! Check your wiring at the battery! On most TT, they use white and black battery cables. In the DC world (ie automotive, marine) Black is negative (-) and red is positive (+). It seems that an electrician wires the trailer's DC as you find the AC wiring scheme, white (Neutral) and black (hot), cross that to the DC world and you have BLACK is positive (+) and WHITE is negative (-).
If you have white and black cables for battery connections, hook the up white (-) and black (+).
Let us know what you find please.
__________________
Kirk, KN1B
2013 Cardinal 3800FL
2009 GMC 3500HD CC LB SRW
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10-15-2011, 06:44 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Austin, Tx area
Posts: 126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherdep
If you were located near Orlando Florida - I would be more then willing to help ya out so ya didnt have to wait till your son comes in town
if you had a creepy crawly like they use on cars that might help ya get under it easier
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Thank you so much for the offer!
But I be 1000 miles away......
The creeper might help, but the problem is mainly getting
up and down. Ouch
happy weekend,
johnd
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10-15-2011, 07:02 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Austin, Tx area
Posts: 126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbrown1075
x2! Check your wiring at the battery! On most TT, they use white and black battery cables. In the DC world (ie automotive, marine) Black is negative (-) and red is positive (+). It seems that an electrician wires the trailer's DC as you find the AC wiring scheme, white (Neutral) and black (hot), cross that to the DC world and you have BLACK is positive (+) and WHITE is negative (-).
If you have white and black cables for battery connections, hook the up white (-) and black (+).
Let us know what you find please.
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The wiring on mine was done by a color blind electrician
(or high school drop-out....nay, grammar school!!)
The Positive lead is Red (DC+) and the Negative is
White (AC neutral).....weird...
The TT has been *not* maintained well by previous owner.
The battery leads that I can reach are terribly corroded.
Well they *WERE*, but I cut off the connectors and replaced them,
soldering the wire to the connector and covering with shrink
tubing. I hD BEEN measuring about 10 ohms from negative
terminal to the frame. Yipes!!!
With new connections and cleaned up frame ground, I should
see little IR drop from battery to main panel.......once I find
that sneaky open in the + lead.....
cheers,
johnd
PS Just had a flash. The break-away switch leads go under
the TT frame along with the Positive lead and the the
cable from the 7 way vehicle connector. That smells like
there MUST be a Jbox of some sort under the frame.
Hmmmmmm.........
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10-15-2011, 11:01 PM
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#20
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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aaaaaaaaa yes there is hope .
sometimes they cut a hole in the underbody covering to have an access point for the junction box then the cover the hole with a "bigger" piece of the underbody covering then silicone all the way around it .
its almost easy to miss in low light . best part of it is they use marrets
and with such a small box they are hard to get in there .
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