Battery power???

[dnaraG_1M]

We just bought our first TT - 2001 Cherokee 25' (Plate w/ model #
missing). Lots of hidden problems, but that's another story.
The problem I'm dealing with now is battery power.....

Installed a fresh battery and cleaned the connectors. Am getting 12vdc
on the leads at the battery, but no battery power inside. Checked the
distribution panel and found the input battery leads dead. Is it possible
that there is a main battery disconnect on this TT?? If so, where would
it be. I've looked everywhere finding nothing...........

Does anyone know where it might be? I would appreciate any help.
(Would just climb under it and trace the cable, but the arthritis is
too much for this old coot.......)

cheers,
johnd

[sherdep]

sounds like you have some sort of a disconnect or possibly a blown fuse or the isolator is bad

if you have a toner (we call them a fox and hound at work) you could disconnect the battery cable and tone out the cable too to find where it goes.

[donn]

Follow the + battery cable to where is disappears into the trailer. There should be a screwed on panel. Take it off and you will probably find an inline 30 amp fuse.

[Triguy]

John, first of all - Welcome!

It possible that a battery disconnect was installed from the previous owner. Mine is hidden because its bolted to the tongue on the cross bracing.

It can be found fairly close to your battery if there is one that was installed by the owner.

You might also check for an in-line fuse between the positive on the battery and the converter.

Good luck.

[dnaraG_1M]

Originally Posted by sherdep

sounds like you have some sort of a disconnect

That's pretty much what I was asking. Does this TT have a battery
disconnect and where would it be?

[QUOTE=or possibly a blown fuse or the isolator is bad [/QUOTE]
There is no indication of a main fuse in the electrical panel.
Plenty of fuses for individual circuits, but I checked upstream - the
battery leads as they enter the panel.......

[QUOTE=if you have a toner (we call them a fox and hound at work) you could disconnect the battery cable and tone out the cable too to find where it goes.[/QUOTE]
Toner????
Would that be a continuity checker like a "buzz box" or ohmmeter?
I already know that the positive lead - at the battery - shows open
circuit to ground. IE no load resistance.......

cheers,
johnd

[dnaraG_1M]

Originally Posted by donn

Follow the + battery cable to where is disappears into the trailer. There should be a screwed on panel. Take it off and you will probably find an inline 30 amp fuse.

The only panel that I can find is an electrical panel under the
fridge (inside TT). Battery lead goes under TT from battery....???

cheers,
johnd

[TURBS]

Check in your cupboard door above your sink there may be model designation there on a sticker

[dnaraG_1M]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Check in your cupboard door above your sink there may be model designation there on a sticker

THANKS!!!

CKT27X
I guess that means that it's actually a 27 footer....
Hmmmm.

cheers,
johnd

[dnaraG_1M]

>John, first of all - Welcome!
Thank you; glad to be here!

>It possible that a battery disconnect was installed from the previous >owner. Mine is hidden because its bolted to the tongue on the cross >bracing.
Hoboy. If so there is no telling where it might be.
Nothing on the tongue.......

>It can be found fairly close to your battery if there is one that was >installed by the owner.
Nothing visible there......

>You might also check for an in-line fuse between the positive on the >battery and the converter.
Would that be under the TT or somewhere else.
Nothing in the positive lead on the tongue.
And the leads coming into the electrical panel don't show
anything........sigh....

>Good luck.

thanks again,
johnd

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by dnaraG_1M

THANKS!!!

CKT27X
I guess that means that it's actually a 27 footer....
Hmmmm.

cheers,
johnd

The number in the model number doesn't hallways mean total length.
normally its the inside measurement.
I have 32 bhok-6 that 36 foot over all.

[bikendan]

TT's rarely have battery disconnects from the factory. I've never heard of any FR trailers that do.
The most common cause of your type of issue, is a new owner crossing the battery wires when installing it.
This sets off a re-settable inline fuse that's located along the tongue, between the battery and the front of the trailer.

[dnaraG_1M]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

The number in the model number doesn't hallways mean total length.
normally its the inside measurement.
I have 32 bhok-6 that 36 foot over all.

Right.
Looking at manufacturer's model numbers, I hallways thought
that the number meant the length of the box - not overall
length.

Still haven't found what is stopping the battery power
from reaching the electrical panel. No fuse or switch in sight.
.....sigh.......

johnd

[TURBS]

If you can't track down a fuse /circuit breaker or open wire than its time to run a new wire.
my flagstaff tt I used to have had a household metal junction box under the enclosed under body you had to take a flap off to access it.
otherwise I had a blown fuse once in the converter.

[dnaraG_1M]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

If you can't track down a fuse /circuit breaker or open wire than its time to run a new wire.
my flagstaff tt I used to have had a household metal junction box under the enclosed under body you had to take a flap off to access it.
otherwise I had a blown fuse once in the converter.

Yah, I'm coming to suspect the answer must be under the TT.
With all the other problems this turkey has, maybe the battery
lead has been broken. [I have the converter switched off to
isolate the DC problems.]

Not being physically able to climb under it, I guess I'll wait till my
son comes to town for the holidays and ask him to climb under
and trace the wire......or string a new one if the old is not
easily repaired....

cheers,
johnd

[sherdep]

Originally Posted by dnaraG_1M

Yah, I'm coming to suspect the answer must be under the TT.
With all the other problems this turkey has, maybe the battery
lead has been broken. [I have the converter switched off to
isolate the DC problems.]

Not being physically able to climb under it, I guess I'll wait till my
son comes to town for the holidays and ask him to climb under
and trace the wire......or string a new one if the old is not
easily repaired....

cheers,
johnd

If you were located near Orlando Florida - I would be more then willing to help ya out so ya didnt have to wait till your son comes in town

if you had a creepy crawly like they use on cars that might help ya get under it easier

[rohlingerrv]

Im with bikendan, there is a small reset button, I had the same problem with my 5th wheel, mine was in my pinbox. reset and it works..

[kbrown1075]

Originally Posted by bikendan

TT's rarely have battery disconnects from the factory. I've never heard of any FR trailers that do.
The most common cause of your type of issue, is a new owner crossing the battery wires when installing it.
This sets off a re-settable inline fuse that's located along the tongue, between the battery and the front of the trailer.

x2! Check your wiring at the battery! On most TT, they use white and black battery cables. In the DC world (ie automotive, marine) Black is negative (-) and red is positive (+). It seems that an electrician wires the trailer's DC as you find the AC wiring scheme, white (Neutral) and black (hot), cross that to the DC world and you have BLACK is positive (+) and WHITE is negative (-).

If you have white and black cables for battery connections, hook the up white (-) and black (+).

Let us know what you find please.

[dnaraG_1M]

Originally Posted by sherdep

If you were located near Orlando Florida - I would be more then willing to help ya out so ya didnt have to wait till your son comes in town

if you had a creepy crawly like they use on cars that might help ya get under it easier

Thank you so much for the offer!
But I be 1000 miles away......

The creeper might help, but the problem is mainly getting
up and down. Ouch

happy weekend,
johnd

[dnaraG_1M]

Originally Posted by kbrown1075

x2! Check your wiring at the battery! On most TT, they use white and black battery cables. In the DC world (ie automotive, marine) Black is negative (-) and red is positive (+). It seems that an electrician wires the trailer's DC as you find the AC wiring scheme, white (Neutral) and black (hot), cross that to the DC world and you have BLACK is positive (+) and WHITE is negative (-).

If you have white and black cables for battery connections, hook the up white (-) and black (+).

Let us know what you find please.

The wiring on mine was done by a color blind electrician
(or high school drop-out....nay, grammar school!!)
The Positive lead is Red (DC+) and the Negative is
White (AC neutral).....weird...

The TT has been *not* maintained well by previous owner.
The battery leads that I can reach are terribly corroded.
Well they *WERE*, but I cut off the connectors and replaced them,
soldering the wire to the connector and covering with shrink
tubing. I hD BEEN measuring about 10 ohms from negative
terminal to the frame. Yipes!!!

With new connections and cleaned up frame ground, I should
see little IR drop from battery to main panel.......once I find
that sneaky open in the + lead.....

cheers,
johnd

PS Just had a flash. The break-away switch leads go under
the TT frame along with the Positive lead and the the
cable from the 7 way vehicle connector. That smells like
there MUST be a Jbox of some sort under the frame.
Hmmmmmm.........

[TURBS]

aaaaaaaaa yes there is hope .
sometimes they cut a hole in the underbody covering to have an access point for the junction box then the cover the hole with a "bigger" piece of the underbody covering then silicone all the way around it .
its almost easy to miss in low light . best part of it is they use marrets

and with such a small box they are hard to get in there .