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Old 02-25-2017, 11:58 AM   #1
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Electric tongue jack won't work?

Even when i have the 30amp plugged in the hitch will not raise or lower. The light will still come on and off, so that leads me to maybe the motor? I did raise the jack all the way and i since read that will cause the fuse or motor to burn out. I have also read about an inline fuse, BUT i cannot find where that is. I traced the black wire coming from the hitch down and under my tongue, it is covered in the black tubing...but i did not see a little black box that would house the fuse. Does this sound like a fuse issue for only the motor since the light works, or is it the motor itself? It was the first time taking it out so hopefully its nothing too serious. Its parked at my house now, but i need to fix this before my next trip. Thanks guys.
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Old 02-25-2017, 12:37 PM   #2
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The tongue jack comes directly off the battery is the battery plugged in? Also do you hear anything at all when you try to engage the tongue jack? Even with a low battery the lights will work because their LED but the motor will not.
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Old 02-25-2017, 12:44 PM   #3
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No i do not hear anything while trying to engage. Still, I would like to know where the inline fuse is so i can check that. If not i fear its the motor itself...but would it go bad after one trip?
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Old 02-25-2017, 12:49 PM   #4
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Hitch problem

I had the same thing happen to me last fall getting ready for a trip. Had to raise and lower the jack with the hand crank. I couldn't find the in-line fuse either and the light worked. Drove 400 miles for a week of camping, has worked ever since.
Asked at the dealership, they believed that a wire moved back to where it was. LOL. Hope it will work when I get it out this April.
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Old 02-25-2017, 02:58 PM   #5
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Thanks. I just figured its not the battery since when it is unplugged the lights and slide out still work. So ive narrowed it to the inline fuse, (which I still cannot find) or the motor. Would anyone have any pictures of where to find the inline fuse. i have seen generic pictures of the fuse box, but cant seem to find it on my 19rb. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 02-26-2017, 12:53 PM   #6
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Even when i have the 30amp plugged in the hitch will not raise or lower. The light will still come on and off, so that leads me to maybe the motor? I did raise the jack all the way and i since read that will cause the fuse or motor to burn out. I have also read about an inline fuse, BUT i cannot find where that is. I traced the black wire coming from the hitch down and under my tongue, it is covered in the black tubing...but i did not see a little black box that would house the fuse. Does this sound like a fuse issue for only the motor since the light works, or is it the motor itself? It was the first time taking it out so hopefully its nothing too serious. Its parked at my house now, but i need to fix this before my next trip. Thanks guys.
What brand TT or 5er? If TT, there is either a fuse or circuit breaker somewhere on the frame in vicinity of the battery. Usually the breaker has a little black "reset" button on the side. If it's a fiver, normally a breaker located in the front storage compartment on the rear bulkhead.
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Old 02-26-2017, 12:58 PM   #7
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What brand TT or 5er? If TT, there is either a fuse or circuit breaker somewhere on the frame in vicinity of the battery. Usually the breaker has a little black "reset" button on the side. If it's a fiver, normally a breaker located in the front storage compartment on the rear bulkhead.
Its a FR 21RB TT. I have gotten under the tongue and looked for a fuse or black reset button but cannot find anything. Will look again today. Might you have a picture of what it would look like? My wiring is covered in heat shrink duct piping so its a little difficult to see.
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Old 02-26-2017, 01:19 PM   #8
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That resettable fuse is usually downstream from the hitch and mine is under the chloroplast under the trailer. Don't think that's it. What kind of jack? Some jacks have internal fuse not on external power line.
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Old 02-26-2017, 01:28 PM   #9
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My electric hitch was dealer installed. It has a red wire going from the hitch directly to the positive battery terminal. The in-line fuse is located in this red line about 1 foot from where it goes to the terminal. Sharing on the off chance your set-up is the same.
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Old 02-26-2017, 01:29 PM   #10
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That resettable fuse is usually downstream from the hitch and mine is under the chloroplast under the trailer. Don't think that's it. What kind of jack? Some jacks have internal fuse not on external power line.
Its an FC-3500 jack.
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Old 02-26-2017, 01:40 PM   #11
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My electric hitch was dealer installed. It has a red wire going from the hitch directly to the positive battery terminal. The in-line fuse is located in this red line about 1 foot from where it goes to the terminal. Sharing on the off chance your set-up is the same.
Thanks for the reply, mine does not go directly to the battery. but it was dealer or factory installed.
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Old 02-26-2017, 01:43 PM   #12
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Mine fried once. I found it one day with the jack raised all the way up. Would not lower. The light worked. Pulled the switch and it was obviously fried. Lightening strike? Maybe. Bought a new switch at a nearby RV store and has been working fine ever since.

Good luck figuring yours out.
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Old 02-26-2017, 01:46 PM   #13
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Mine fried once. I found it one day with the jack raised all the way up. Would not lower. The light worked. Pulled the switch and it was obviously fried. Lightening strike? Maybe. Bought a new switch at a nearby RV store and has been working fine ever since.

Good luck figuring yours out.
Mine was raised all the way up after my first trip. I read after that this is a big no-no. dealer didnt tell me this. When you say you bought a new switch, do you mean hitch? a whole new unit?
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Old 02-26-2017, 01:50 PM   #14
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Its an FC-3500 jack.
Sorry, its an FIC-3500-2. The newer one with the led lights as well.
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Old 02-26-2017, 01:54 PM   #15
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No, you shouldn't raise it up all the way. Could be unstable. I parked mine off site a public storage. Usually have it raised about half way. Not quite level but close enough. The jack has two rocker switches on it. One for the light, one to raise and lower the jack. It was the rocker switch that I replaced. When I took it out to inspect it the wires were blackened - shorted out.

Good luck.
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Old 02-26-2017, 02:05 PM   #16
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No, you shouldn't raise it up all the way. Could be unstable. I parked mine off site a public storage. Usually have it raised about half way. Not quite level but close enough. The jack has two rocker switches on it. One for the light, one to raise and lower the jack. It was the rocker switch that I replaced. When I took it out to inspect it the wires were blackened - shorted out.

Good luck.
Thanks for that info. Where did you find the same exact switch. Looking online the manufacture does not sell it separately. Is there a model number or part number i can look up?
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Old 02-26-2017, 02:06 PM   #17
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Google search for FC-3500 brings up a Lippert jack. Known to be a lower quality jack. There is an inline fuse which you can see circled in the picture below.

It's not unusual for that fuse to blow if the jack is operated up to its limit (when it starts binding). It's pretty hard on the motor from the time it first binds until the fuse blows. Since you said the lights still work it's probably not a fuse problem. You might use the hand crank and move the jack a little to see if it takes pressure of the motor.

I've never cared for the 3,500 pound jacks. They are probably OK if all you are doing is moving the trailer up and down but are lacking in power when used to hook up the WD bars. I was curious how much pressure was on the jack during the hookup process so I put a Sherline scale under the jack foot. When it raised the combined truck/trailer enough to set a pair of 1,400 pound bars the scale showed a total weight of 3,400 pounds.

If the motor is bad you can probably get it replaced under warranty. If so, put the new one in a box for installation when you get rid of the trailer. In the meantime get a 4,500 pound jack like the Husky Brute which has ball bearing movement and electronic shutoffs so you don't have to worry about binding the motor at the upper or lower limits.

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Old 02-26-2017, 02:09 PM   #18
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If the light still works, then it is not the fuse or breaker coming from the battery. I would check the up/down switch first. The wires are usually attached to the switch with spade connectors, and they are sometimes loose. It is true that you should not extend or retract the jack until it bottoms out, but I doubt that the motor would go out after such a short time of running it.
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Old 02-26-2017, 02:17 PM   #19
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Thanks for that info. Where did you find the same exact switch. Looking online the manufacture does not sell it separately. Is there a model number or part number i can look up?
Probably this one:

https://www.etrailer.com/p-7145-226023.html

Call e-Trailer and they will help you get the right one.
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Old 02-26-2017, 02:27 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by emm-dee View Post
Google search for FC-3500 brings up a Lippert jack. Known to be a lower quality jack. There is an inline fuse which you can see circled in the picture below.

It's not unusual for that fuse to blow if the jack is operated up to its limit (when it starts binding). It's pretty hard on the motor from the time it first binds until the fuse blows. Since you said the lights still work it's probably not a fuse problem. You might use the hand crank and move the jack a little to see if it takes pressure of the motor.

I've never cared for the 3,500 pound jacks. They are probably OK if all you are doing is moving the trailer up and down but are lacking in power when used to hook up the WD bars. I was curious how much pressure was on the jack during the hookup process so I put a Sherline scale under the jack foot. When it raised the combined truck/trailer enough to set a pair of 1,400 pound bars the scale showed a total weight of 3,400 pounds.

If the motor is bad you can probably get it replaced under warranty. If so, put the new one in a box for installation when you get rid of the trailer. In the meantime get a 4,500 pound jack like the Husky Brute which has ball bearing movement and electronic shutoffs so you don't have to worry about binding the motor at the upper or lower limits.

Thanks for the reply. Although that is not the same model. Mine is an FIC-3500-2. Made by Fastec? I dont believe it has an inline fues...if so i havent been able to track it down. I dont have any experience with eelctrical stuff, so if i cant replace the switch i may just end up buying a new unit...and the husky brute might be the way to go. Thanks.
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