First Trip with Grey Wolf 17BH Not Good

[RCSP]

I do have a brake controller, the Tekonsha P3. I have taken a few 4 hour trips with the camper. I did a lot of work with the trailer shank. The shank I got with the camper (bought used) just had the holes in the wrong spots, so the camper wasn't level. I bought a different shank and now the camper is level, the TV height is almost perfect, and I moved the motorcycle and generator around until the tongue weight was about 400lbs. Also put the rear TV tire pressure to 40psi (Max listed on the tire). And probably the most important thing of all is putting the TV transmission to manual. When I accelerate I manually shift, usually about 3000 rpm. Then once I am up to speed I use 5th gear as the maximum (it's an eight speed). Then I try to travel at night or I avoid the freeway because I like to do about 55 mph.

Originally Posted by Teetime

I couldn't agree more. I had a 17BH, and towed with an F150, with an e2 WDH, which worked out well. But, I would not have less of a TV or more of a TT.

Also, if your check valve is leaking, just drain your fresh water tank before you tow.

Another thought, does your Highlander have a Brake Controller, and are you using the trailer brakes?

[Kaadk]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

Would like to know your thought pattern for this.



If the check valve is leaking and the fresh water tank is filling up through the city water connection and water pump, then NOT hooking up to city water and using the fresh water tank until a new check valve is installed would be the more prudent thing to do I would think.

I’d have to disagree. If your check valve is leaking, running the pump is going to cause needless cycling of the pump.

The pump works by pressuring the lines, and when the pressure sensor detects the correct pressure, shuts off the pump. If the check valve doesn’t work, then that pressure is going to let the lines leak back into the fresh tank, which will drop the pressure enough that the pump will cycle on again to re-pressure the lines, and continue in a needless cycle like that.

If you’re faced with a leaking check valve that won’t reseat, and you can’t get it fixed, if you have independent valves on your winterization kit (I.e. separate valve for fresh tank and antifreeze line), I’d just close both the fresh tank valve AND the antifreeze valve, so the water that leaks past the pump doesn’t have anywhere to go. This will maintain pressure in the lines.

Of course, the preferred fix is to just fix the check valve.