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Old 08-26-2018, 01:22 PM   #1
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Grey Wolf 17BH Dometic power awning motor

Hi, my first post so go easy on me I just got this camper a few days ago (Grey Wolf 17BH, 2012). Never had a camper before. I didn't extend the awning before I bought it (DUMB!). The awning blows the 15amp fuse immediately when trying to extend the awning. I took the switch apart, it appears to be ok, no corrosion and I tested with a multimeter. I got up on a ladder and disconnected the motor wire and tried direct 12v DC and the motor just clicks (doesn't spin). So I'd assume the motor is either bad or stuck from lack of use (camper hasn't been used in 5 or 6 years). I'd like advice on removing the motor. It's a 8950.400 Dometic awning. What's odd is there is no way to manually open the awning that I see. So repair will be mostly on a ladder. The tricky part is the awning is under spring pressure so that is the part that scares me, if that spring unwinds unexpectedly. Just looking for help from someone who has already been there, done that and can save me from making a big mistake. Thanks!
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Old 08-26-2018, 04:47 PM   #2
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Grey Wolf 17BH Dometic power awning motor

I have no idea how to resolve this, but am interested in hearing from someone who may.

My first instinct would be spraying the crap out of the spindle on both ends and motor gears with some silicone lubricant. Not sure if WD40 is a good idea or not for this issue.

Have you tried looking the manual override?
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Old 08-26-2018, 05:21 PM   #3
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Is there a removable shroud or round cap that can be popped out. I am sure there is a way to manually retract often they need a drill and a small bit to spin the motor in manually.. So I'd surmise it would unwind if you ran it the other way.
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Old 08-26-2018, 06:15 PM   #4
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I recall seeing a few threads here where this has been described. I will do some searching. IIFC the spring is in the opposite end from the motor and can cause injury if not taken apart correctly, I think you are safe on the motor end.
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:24 AM   #5
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Got it all apart.....

I was able to get the motor out, wasn't easy. Also the spring is unwound because the pin holding it from rotating was knocked out by accident. It's not a huge awning so it wasn't under much tension, maybe 8 turns or so. The brushes are destroyed. I googled the # on the brushes and can't find them. The # on the brushes was 25-78-5 and on the back is # 25-77. The brushes are one piece, it's a plastic holder with wiring and holds both brushes. See pics. I found a VERY similar motor online but the main shaft doesn't have threads and it was $15 brand new! Best deal I can find for a Dometic motor is $160 shipped.
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Old 08-27-2018, 12:26 AM   #6
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Also.......can I order a 9100 motor even though I have a 8950? I'm sure the tube size is the same, and it sure looks identical. I doubt anyone sells a 8950 motor.


The places that sell the motors say "This motor will only work with Dometic hardware, not WeatherPro". How can I tell which set of hardware I have?
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Old 08-27-2018, 02:06 PM   #7
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I had to manually unroll the awning to get the exact model number. Thanks for putting the sticker under the fabric where the entire awning needs to be unrolled. And I can confirm the awning has not been opened in years, it stinks once I unrolled it.


I found a dealer in Indiana that had a 9100 motor assembly for $132 shipped. They confirmed it would work in the 8950 awning. So I ordered it. I'll have it Thursday. Then the installation begins...stay tuned! I think the installation will be a little tricky, need to roll the awning up, or actually I'll have to see if it is easier when it's down, then I'm not on a ladder. Then putting the proper tension on the spring is critical, I've read 8 turns and another thread said 12 turns.
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Old 08-29-2018, 03:45 PM   #8
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Got the new motor

I got my new motor from Bill's RV Appliance in Elkhart, Indiana (found them on eBay but ordered directly via phone). I ordered on Monday at 1pm, it arrived Wednesday (today) at 1pm. I tested the motor by hooking to a 12v battery. It turns in both directions, so I'm happy about that.



Once the motor is in the awning, the bracket didn't line up, so I took my 12v battery and 2 alligator clips up the ladder and touched the leads to the motor until it spun to the desired position. Hooking the wire connectors together wasn't easy, no real way to hold the lower connector since the vertical covers are in the way. I put dialetric grease on the connectors and pressed together the best I could. I think once the awning is extended I'll be able to make sure they are fully pressed together tightly.


I put the bolt into the cap and tightened it. So now the tricky part, winding the left side spring, and getting the fabric rolled up correctly.



I have to measure the width of the awning and then turn the spring with a vice grip attached to the end cap. It will be either 9 turns if the width is 14' or less, otherwise 10 turns for 15'. The camper is 17' so the awning is a little less.


I haven't seen a good video of how to do this, so I'm winging it.
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Old 08-30-2018, 10:33 AM   #9
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I decided to take a look at the spring as long as I had the awning this far apart. I put a wire in the end cap to lock the spring. Removed the bolt and pulled the end cap up and out of the vertical mount. Grabbed the end cap with a vice grip then pulled the pin. Unwound the spring 7 turns until there was no tension. Drilled out the 3 rivets. Pulled out the spring. Looked fine but dry, so I sprayed it with oil. Put spring back in, and the white end cap had 2 small ridges that prevented the cap from going all the way on, so I had to guess how to align the cap so those ridges went into a cutout in the awning tube. Put in 3 new rivets. Used vice grip to turn the spring 9 turns (from previous research). Inserted pin to lock spring. Put end cap back in vertical mount. Put bolt back in place. Pulled the pin. Replaced the old blown fuse. Pressed the RETRACT switch.........IT WORKS. Retracts very fast. The switch sticks, I'll look at that today, probably a little dialetric grease will fix it.


The underside of the awning is really dirty. I tried outdoor bleach, mold remover and oxiclean. I'll read the forums to see what works best.
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Old 11-08-2018, 11:21 PM   #10
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I've extened the awning maybe 15 times since replacing the motor. Today I think it burned out again. I wonder if the # of winds on the sprint wasn't enough. I found a chart and I used the # from the chart, I think it was 9 turns. Any ideas? I think the awning fabric is about 14' wide.
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Old 11-09-2018, 02:57 AM   #11
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Are you sure your awning is a Dometic 8950? They dont have it listed on their website.

Main Website & Sales : https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us

Support & Registration : https://www.edometic.com/

You should have used silicone spray on the spring. Oil drips off easily then the spring drys. Unfortunately, none of the manuals I have, (8000-8500-9000 Awnings & 9100 Power Awning) says anything about lubricating the spring(s). There is a small hole in the end cap where you can spray silicone lube by sticking the spray tube in it. Just be sure the tube doesn't get lost inside the awning tube.

I spray mine, roll it up, unroll and spray again. The action of rolling and unrolling will help distribute the silicone. It seems to work and even makes the awning quieter when extending/retracting.

My garage door springs are the same way. I have to spray them once a year.
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Old 11-09-2018, 03:49 PM   #12
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I oiled the spring this summer. The motor just doesn't seem to have enough power.
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Old 11-09-2018, 06:21 PM   #13
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You don't say if you are plugged into shore(120VAC) power. You say the TT hasn't been used for 5-6 yrs. How old is the battery? If it is as old as the TT it's time for a new one. If it's 1 or 2 yrs old have it load tested at a battery store. The first thing you should check is if the battery is full charged (above 12.6 volts). The awning uses 12vdc only. If your boondocking (without being plugged into a 120VAC power source) then everything in the TT that uses 12VDC (lights, radio, fan, CO/LP detector, refrigerator) will be discharging the battery. If the battery voltage checks out start checking the battery terminals for good connections. Check the ground connections for corrosion/loose wires on the frame of the trailer. Since the TT has been sitting for along time the connections may be suspicious.


Since you are new to camping you should take the time to check this link. New to RV's helpful hints
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:28 PM   #14
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I believe the 8950 was in late 2011, then they had the newer 9000 and 9100 which are similar.
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Old 11-09-2018, 07:29 PM   #15
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I have it at my home and plugged into 120V with a short extension cord.


Thanks!



Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper View Post
You don't say if you are plugged into shore(120VAC) power. You say the TT hasn't been used for 5-6 yrs. How old is the battery? If it is as old as the TT it's time for a new one. If it's 1 or 2 yrs old have it load tested at a battery store. The first thing you should check is if the battery is full charged (above 12.6 volts). The awning uses 12vdc only. If your boondocking (without being plugged into a 120VAC power source) then everything in the TT that uses 12VDC (lights, radio, fan, CO/LP detector, refrigerator) will be discharging the battery. If the battery voltage checks out start checking the battery terminals for good connections. Check the ground connections for corrosion/loose wires on the frame of the trailer. Since the TT has been sitting for along time the connections may be suspicious.


Since you are new to camping you should take the time to check this link. New to RV's helpful hints
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Old 11-09-2018, 09:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I have it at my home and plugged into 120V with a short extension cord.


Thanks!
Does the microwave or anything on 120v work? Reason I'm asking is the 120v outlet in your house is most likely a 15A GFCI. Your TT has a converter that changes the 120vac to 12vdc to charge your battery and operate the 12v low amp items.

High amp items such as slide outs and stabilizers need the battery to help with the high current demand. Your TT has a GFCI in it and most times the one your plugged into will trip. GFCI's do not play well together. When the GFCI your plugged into trips you will not have power to charge the battery.

You can get past this problem by turning off the GFCI breaker inside the TT's breaker panel or pushing the "Test" button on the TT's GFCI outlet. Some RV's have more than one GFCI's so you will have to do both/all of them.

When your converter is charging the battery you should read 13.2 to 14.4 volts depending on the batteries state of charge.

Once you are sure your converter is charging the battery, let it charge over night. To test the voltage of the battery with a multimeter you need to disconnect the negative cable on the battery and let it rest for at least 30 minutes for the surface charge to dissipate. When testing the battery after it rests will give you the true voltage on the battery.

I have heard that you can run the vent fan on high for 2 to 3 minutes to remove the surface charge. I have attached a battery charge chart.
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