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01-16-2015, 05:25 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Middle of the swamp :)
Posts: 2
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Living in covered (high metal carport) travel trailer??
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01-16-2015, 05:43 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 812
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I would see no reason why you couldn't do so. My one area of concern would be the ambient temp of the air that would gather between the top of the trailer and the carport/metal cover. The metal cover could create a radiant heating effect under the cover. The would be the fresh air intake source. The AC is only designed to lower the incoming air a set number of degrees.
I guess if there was a enough height and air flow between the RV and the Metal cover you may be ok.
__________________
2018 Berkshire XL 40B
Past RVs: National Pacifica 40', Kenworth T300 Toterhome, Jayco Class C 32'. American Eagle 40',
American Eagle 40', Bounder 38' tag axle
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01-16-2015, 06:02 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Middle of the swamp :)
Posts: 2
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That's what I was concerned about with the AC units. just was trying to think of a way to better protect the travel trailer and extend its life cause the thought of losing another house scares me to death.
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01-16-2015, 06:23 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 812
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I know there are hundreds of people who have RV-Ports which are along the line of what you are looking to do. I guess the way to assure proper air flow would be to allow for a taller cover or to mount a couple of wind driven such as these:
Shop AIR VENT INC. Galvanized Steel Wind Turbine Attic Vent (Fits Opening: 12-in; Actual: 19.3-in x 19.5-in) at Lowes.com=
which would allow for air circulation between the RV and the cover.
__________________
2018 Berkshire XL 40B
Past RVs: National Pacifica 40', Kenworth T300 Toterhome, Jayco Class C 32'. American Eagle 40',
American Eagle 40', Bounder 38' tag axle
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01-17-2015, 04:26 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonrjen
I would see no reason why you couldn't do so. My one area of concern would be the ambient temp of the air that would gather between the top of the trailer and the carport/metal cover. The metal cover could create a radiant heating effect under the cover. The would be the fresh air intake source. The AC is only designed to lower the incoming air a set number of degrees.
I guess if there was a enough height and air flow between the RV and the Metal cover you may be ok.
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One thought about the "ambient temperature" that we have used here in Texas (where temps over 100 degrees is common) is to use light colored or reflective metal on the roof possibly with turbines or turtlebacks (like the kind found on houses) and/or use a solar powered attic fan to blow the hot air away from the trapped area between the RV and the metal roof. The fans run around $250 for smaller ones and around $700 for the larger ones. Also remember if using solar powered anything it can be deducted on income taxes for I believe 30% of cost in single year or 20% each year for next five years.
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01-17-2015, 04:58 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Whitney, Texas
Posts: 181
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piloto
as long as the carport has no sides or very short sides from the top down --and a couple of feet of clearance from ac to top of cover you will have no problem at all. The main secret is to have clearance for the ac exhaust to escape from ac itself and not collect around the ac. I have only about 18 inches from top of my ac to top of rv cover, (could use more there) the cover is open at one end and has sheet metal running down about 4 feet from the top on the sides and the front. The exhaust gets out from under the rv port easily. The unit cools a lot better there than it does out in the hot Texas sun. My rv cover is also Hawaiian blue, not light blue, but not dark blue either. I have only one ac on my 32 ft motor home and it cools very good under the rv cover.
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01-17-2015, 05:57 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: North Central Florida
Posts: 116
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I have a 32ft TT stored under a 18x41 Metal carport with 12ft leg height which makes the peak of the roof 15ft. I have six feet of metal down the sides and no gable ends. The top of the AC unit is 11' 3". I keep it set up under there just like I do on a campsite. I definitely found the air conditioning cools better now than it did before the carport was installed just from keeping the direct Florida sun from beating down on the RV itself. The lack of gable ends I would think helps with keeping the heat build up from occurring between the RV roof and the carport roof. The RV air conditioner is circulating (Cooling) the air in the RV, not drawing air from the outside, so the benefit of keeping the sun from beating down on the roof of the RV will be the greatest benefit in my opinion.
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01-21-2015, 08:43 AM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Butler Pa.
Posts: 27
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Hi, We have a metal carport over our trailer. Our trailer is about 11.5ft. high and the carport is 14ft. high with a few panels on the sides just to cover the top of the trailer. My sons family stayed in it for 2 weeks last summer while visiting and there was no problems Temps around 90s. I think with that much air between the roof and the trailer you should not have a problem. If you used vents that would help.
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01-21-2015, 09:00 AM
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#9
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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You also may need to look at fan augmentation for the fridge.
Hot air incoming makes the fridge much less efficient at cooling.
Extra circulation will help.
Sorry about the loss of your home and wish you the very best at getting it rebuilt.
Herk
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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01-23-2015, 05:25 PM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,587
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Living in covered (high metal carport) travel trailer??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashley
I have a 32ft TT stored under a 18x41 Metal carport with 12ft leg height which makes the peak of the roof 15ft. I have six feet of metal down the sides and no gable ends. The top of the AC unit is 11' 3". I keep it set up under there just like I do on a campsite. I definitely found the air conditioning cools better now than it did before the carport was installed just from keeping the direct Florida sun from beating down on the RV itself. The lack of gable ends I would think helps with keeping the heat build up from occurring between the RV roof and the carport roof. The RV air conditioner is circulating (Cooling) the air in the RV, not drawing air from the outside, so the benefit of keeping the sun from beating down on the roof of the RV will be the greatest benefit in my opinion.
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Many details here match my own situation. 18'x40' with 12' legs. My roof is white "vertical roof" panels... open gables... metal panels on each side from eaves down 6' which leave 6' open sides at the bottom. I am amazed how much cooler the trailer is under this shed than when parked out in the Texas sun. Our humidity is not generally as high as it is in the middle of the swamp but when I'm working out in the sun and heat, I've been known to go under my shed and sit on the steps of my trailer to cool off!
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69
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01-23-2015, 05:54 PM
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#11
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Ret E-9 Anchor-clanker
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Genoa, ILL
Posts: 1,476
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Your signage say your in the middle of the swamp so I'm sure keeping the humidity down is a task. The AC's operate easier if you can keep it below 50% and of course molds won't grow if it's cold. Ceramic heaters cause your RV to drawn in moisture (no air flow). I run a dehumidifier when the windows are closed/ceramic heater is on. I have a weather station that tells me the humidity inside and out.
__________________
Don & Dona W/yorkies Gizmo, Master Chief, & Tali
2011 Flagstaff 8528 BHSS 2015 Ford 6.7 XLT
2010 Full Timers & Still Going
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01-23-2015, 05:58 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 14,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Dan
Many details here match my own situation. 18'x40' with 12' legs. My roof is white "vertical roof" panels... open gables... metal panels on each side from eaves down 6' which leave 6' open sides at the bottom. I am amazed how much cooler the trailer is under this shed than when parked out in the Texas sun. Our humidity is not generally as high as it is in the middle of the swamp but when I'm working out in the sun and heat, I've been known to go under my shed and sit on the steps of my trailer to cool off!
Attachment 68773
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This is the type of structure we have seen (All over the USA) it works well for( Sun or Snow load)! Youroo!!
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01-23-2015, 06:52 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 78
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I lined a carport type cover with Reflective roll material. The stuff is magic. The 3 layer foil/bubble/foil is easy to work with.
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06-08-2016, 10:11 AM
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#14
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 1
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RV Carport
Quote:
Originally Posted by jennileann
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The carport is open on the front and back and retains little to no heat in the middle of the day. It will greatly extend your RV life and protect it from rain ingress as well as UV rot on the roof of the RV. They will also greatly lower your HVAC requirements in the middle of summer. They are the single best thing you can do for your RV.
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06-08-2016, 02:46 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 6
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What is augmentation fan for the fridge , and where do you get them?
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