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Old 07-09-2007, 07:20 AM   #11
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Justin, Tx
Posts: 2,671
Originally Posted by wvsteve View Post
I didn't get any water regulator but I did get the electrical cord converter. Do I need to buy a water regulator?
Yes. Some parks have very high water pressure. Your RV can only handle around 40-60 PSI depending on the plumbing of your rig. Wally world has a cheap one that I use as a spare but I got a better one from campingworld, these will regulate the pressure down to around 40 or 45 PSI (can't remember). Some really nice regulators even have a gauge and can be dialed in to the exact pressure you want. I'll have to find a link to that one.


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Old 07-09-2007, 09:01 AM   #12
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 318
Glad to hear you recieved your prized possesion.
Tell me does yours look similar to this?

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File Type: bmp TT Back End.bmp (14.1 KB, 81 views)

Bob & Nina's Bunkhouse
1970's Coachman Crusader 30ft TT
Add In: Sarina (18), Susan (14), and dogs Midnight & Shadow
Hitched up to a White 1999 F-150 Ext. Cab
Number of days camped in 2014-2
(4 more days reserved)
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Old 07-09-2007, 01:27 PM   #13
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Jasper, AL
Posts: 88
Yes Identical. Y??
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Old 07-09-2007, 04:34 PM   #14
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 1,061
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My cousin in Michigan just bought a trailer and wanted some advice. This is a copy of parts of the email I sent him. The suggestions are based on my own viewpoints and my understanding of his needs. None of this was meant for public consumption, but it might help you out some.

By all means get a water pressure regulator and use it. Cheap insurance for those campgrounds with outrageous water pressure.

Please note that it is said that a boat is a hole in the water into which you pour money. Haven't quite yet figured out how to state it so succinctly, but trailers can fit in the same general category.

Here goes::::::::::

I use, or have used, all of these specific products. The only ones not currently in use are the stabilizers. (The new trailer already had factory installed ones.) They are all of excellent quality. You can spend more, or you can spend less, but you won’t get better value for your money, IMHO.

Electric Tongue Jack - This one is special in that it has an extendable foot to allow you to jack the tongue up an extra six inches. (If you don’t thing that is of value, try camping with the nose pointed down the side of a hill.) It also has sufficient power to lift the rear of the truck with the trailer attached. This is a must for ease of installation of the spring bars when you hitch up.

Tire Changing - Have one but have never had to use it. Beats the hell of all of the alternatives that I am aware of. Light and easy to transport.

Wheel Stabilizers These are a must for keeping the whole rig from bouncing. Very easy and fast to use. Love ‘em! The also eliminate the need for tire chocks.

Stabilizers - If not already installed from the factory. Yes, you need these too, in addition to the above. NOTE Stabilizers are just that. They are not for leveling the trailer from side to side. For that you use blocks of some sort under the wheels. Plastic ones that they sell at camping world work well, but you need more of them than you think. You can make your own “ramp” out of pressure treated 2x8s, but then you have a lot of size and weight to deal with. Don’t forget to include a small level unless you are comfortable just eyeballing the whole thing.

Patio Rug - Do not buy any other. This is the best I have ever had. Stays clean and super easy to fold and store.

Winterizing bypass kit - If not already installed. There are many ways to winterize a trailer with antifreeze. This is the best. Costs little and easy to install.

Hitch Lock - Small price and much security. Be sure to get the right size.

Fridge Fan - Vastly improves refer performance.

About RV refrigerators. The get cold much faster on gas, but it is still quite slow. Most people load the refer the night before leaving (with pre-chilled food) and turn it on. Leave the gas and the refrigerator on when traveling, but turn off when around gasoline fumes. Diesel should be ok. Turn to electric when hooked up. These things are not frost free. Any water inside will cause the coils to ice. Making ice is the worse culprit, but high humidity also takes a toll. We now use a portable ice maker.

Water Hose - I like this brand. They all impart some negative odor to the water until broken in. Use new ones to water the lawn a few times. Unless you want to get the flat wind-up type (which I have never used) get two 25’ ones. Also get a quality two way water splitter and a good spray nozzle. You can then use one hose to wash down yourself or the bike, and the other for your water supply. Screw them together if needed.

Outside “patio” lights.

NOT! Pain to put up, pain to take down, pain to store, and tend to look idiotic. Get a clip-on incandescent work light, the type with the aluminum bowl cover that has been around forever. Get a 60 watt yellow bug light. Clip same to awning arms. That and your regular patio light…. Nuff said.

Extension cords.

You will seldom, hopefully never, need an extension for you main power supply. However…..

Carrying a 50’ 14 gauge regular orange cord is a must for me. Most campground power boxes are really 50 amp, and have both 30 and 15-20 amp plugs in them. I love to use the electric grill, deep fryer, etc, etc out under the awning, on my stacked up tote boxes and without overloading the 30 amp trailer circuit. I always operate on the theory of using their electricity instead of my gas. Besides, it’s fun! Also get one or two 3-way plugs.

Vent cover.

You need to buy at least one if you like the thought of ventilation in a rainstorm. Put it over the Fantastic Fan. Get the one that is specifically made for covering existing fans.

Tool kit

Obvious, but…

Check the fasteners used on the trailer and make sure you have screwdriver tips that fit. RV sometimes use uncommon fasteners.

A 3’ breaker bar and a socket that will fit the trailer lugs nuts.

A 1 & 1/16 socket (I think) for the anode rod on the water heater.)

An 18+ volt drill and a socket that will fit the screw ends on the frame stabilizers.

Spare bulbs.

Spare fuses.

Duct tape. ;-)

Cube heater

Works fine once the trailer is warmed up on gas. Two, one on high and one on low, work even better. Use their electricity, you are paying for it.

Happy Camping! ///// Richard D.
2006 4x4 Ford 250 SD / 2007 Flagstaff 827 FLS
One very patient wife and one furry child who travels with us. Forty-two years of trailering and camping, and I still have a blast.

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