Originally Posted by Jmartin
We purchased a slightly used 2013 26DBH on Halloween last year. We love it, though we've only been out twice since purchasing. I have a few questions. We took delivery of it, already winterized. I've looked through the manual extensively.
Where are the bypass valves located? The hot water heater outside panel, maybe?
Does everyone suggest using a pressure release valve when connecting a hose to campground water supply?
The previous owners removed the television mount from the inside wall. My dealer provided me with a replacement. Seeing the wall is thin pressboard, at most, what type of anchor should I use for affixing the mount?
We've used the heat twice and it works great (tough getting the pilot light lit though). How can I monitor how much LP is left in my two 40lb tanks mounted to the tongue?
I'm sure I will come up with additional questions. This is our first camper, and though we've enjoyed it, I have so much more to learn about it.
Thank you in advance!!
I do not know your unit, but every Forest River we looked at had a reinforcement at the location where they intend a TV to be mounted. Probably look for a reinforcement in the wall at that location.
If you have any doubt about how much fuel was on board, your best bet is to take the tanks and get them topped off and then keep track of it yourself. Correct use of the changeover valve should notify you when the first tank goes empty and it transfers to the second tank and then you will know to fill the first tank.
If you're having trouble getting the heater to light there are two obvious possibilities. First is the pilot light ignightet area may be contaminated by spider webs or hornets nests but more likely you are just bleeding air out of the fuel line when you first try to start it. This is especially Critical with the refrigerator which only uses a tiny amount of gas flow. Have to have like your lines sit without pressure in them or especially after you change a tank and open the line at the End by removing it from the tank, there will be air in the hoses. The best way to believe that air out is to start a burner on the stove and let it burn for a few minutes for the gas through the line and get out air bubbles
I defer on the winterizing valves to someone with a make and model similar to yours, but usually you will find some way to access the plumbing behind the water heater from the inside or from in a nearby storage compartment and to be able to access three valves at that point