Newbie 2013 GreyWolf 26DBH Owner

[Jmartin]

Hi!

We purchased a slightly used 2013 26DBH on Halloween last year. We love it, though we've only been out twice since purchasing. I have a few questions. We took delivery of it, already winterized. I've looked through the manual extensively.

Where are the bypass valves located? The hot water heater outside panel, maybe?

Does everyone suggest using a pressure release valve when connecting a hose to campground water supply?

The previous owners removed the television mount from the inside wall. My dealer provided me with a replacement. Seeing the wall is thin pressboard, at most, what type of anchor should I use for affixing the mount?

We've used the heat twice and it works great (tough getting the pilot light lit though). How can I monitor how much LP is left in my two 40lb tanks mounted to the tongue?

I'm sure I will come up with additional questions. This is our first camper, and though we've enjoyed it, I have so much more to learn about it.

Thank you in advance!!

Jeff

[gconley]

Your bypass valves are a booger to get to. Access under the bed behind hot water heater. Yes definitely use a pressure reducer. As for the TV mount. Not sure. As for propane, I would like to know also. Mine supposedly has a green thingy that turns red when empty, I think. We have had our 2016 26DBH for almost 2 months and love it. Hope you enjoy yours. Should you have any more questions, just ask.

[Wiscampsin]

Link to LP gauges: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...s+%2Caps%2C169
Disclaimer: can't vouch/recommend any particular one as we don't use one.

[Jmartin]

Thanks! I'm hoping I can reach the bypass valves, as I don't think crawling under the bed will work. I'm 6'4" and 250lbs

[SNOMORE]

Pour a couple cups of warm water down the outside of your propane tank, run your finger down the outside and when you feel cold you will know what your level is. FYI a full tank is about 80% to the top

[johntaylor]

Originally Posted by Jmartin

Does everyone suggest using a pressure release valve when connecting a hose to campground water supply?

How can I monitor how much LP is left in my two 40lb tanks mounted to the tongue?

It's called a water pressure regulator. A pressure relief (release) valve is a different thing.

Your tanks are either 20lb or 30lb.

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by Jmartin

Hi!

We purchased a slightly used 2013 26DBH on Halloween last year. We love it, though we've only been out twice since purchasing. I have a few questions. We took delivery of it, already winterized. I've looked through the manual extensively.

Where are the bypass valves located? The hot water heater outside panel, maybe?

Does everyone suggest using a pressure release valve when connecting a hose to campground water supply?

The previous owners removed the television mount from the inside wall. My dealer provided me with a replacement. Seeing the wall is thin pressboard, at most, what type of anchor should I use for affixing the mount?

We've used the heat twice and it works great (tough getting the pilot light lit though). How can I monitor how much LP is left in my two 40lb tanks mounted to the tongue?

I'm sure I will come up with additional questions. This is our first camper, and though we've enjoyed it, I have so much more to learn about it.

Thank you in advance!!

Jeff

I do not know your unit, but every Forest River we looked at had a reinforcement at the location where they intend a TV to be mounted. Probably look for a reinforcement in the wall at that location.
If you have any doubt about how much fuel was on board, your best bet is to take the tanks and get them topped off and then keep track of it yourself. Correct use of the changeover valve should notify you when the first tank goes empty and it transfers to the second tank and then you will know to fill the first tank.

If you're having trouble getting the heater to light there are two obvious possibilities. First is the pilot light ignightet area may be contaminated by spider webs or hornets nests but more likely you are just bleeding air out of the fuel line when you first try to start it. This is especially Critical with the refrigerator which only uses a tiny amount of gas flow. Have to have like your lines sit without pressure in them or especially after you change a tank and open the line at the End by removing it from the tank, there will be air in the hoses. The best way to believe that air out is to start a burner on the stove and let it burn for a few minutes for the gas through the line and get out air bubbles

I defer on the winterizing valves to someone with a make and model similar to yours, but usually you will find some way to access the plumbing behind the water heater from the inside or from in a nearby storage compartment and to be able to access three valves at that point

[Tom48]

Originally Posted by Tom48

I do not know your unit, but every Forest River we looked at had a reinforcement at the location where they intend a TV to be mounted. Probably look for a reinforcement in the wall at that location.
If you have any doubt about how much fuel was on board, your best bet is to take the tanks and get them topped off and then keep track of it yourself. Correct use of the changeover valve should notify you when the first tank goes empty and it transfers to the second tank and then you will know to fill the first tank.

If you're having trouble getting the heater to light there are two obvious possibilities. First is the pilot light ignightet area may be contaminated by spider webs or hornets nests but more likely you are just bleeding air out of the fuel line when you first try to start it. This is especially Critical with the refrigerator which only uses a tiny amount of gas flow. Have to have like your lines sit without pressure in them or especially after you change a tank and open the line at the End by removing it from the tank, there will be air in the hoses. The best way to believe that air out is to start a burner on the stove and let it burn for a few minutes for the gas through the line and get out air bubbles

I defer on the winterizing valves to someone with a make and model similar to yours, but usually you will find some way to access the plumbing behind the water heater from the inside or from in a nearby storage compartment and to be able to access three valves at that point

Wow. Sorry for the rough spots in that text. My voice recognition software is not all that it is cracked up to be and it is very hard for me to proofread the microscopic text that shows up on my phone while I'm typing

[biker2]

To open and close the water heater bypass valves in my 2013 Grey Wolf 28BH I made a "turn key" out of a piece of wood 2" X 3/4" with 2 cleats fastened on one end so that the cleats can fit over the valves. The length of the turn key is just long enough to reach the water heater valves from the outside of the trailer through the storage compartment door (in effect equal to the width of the trailer). So I can stand on the outside, reach the valves with the turn key and simply turn them on or off. Beats crawling under the bed twice a year or crawling on my belly along the storage compartment to reach the water heater!
I have two 20 lb. propane tanks that last a long time and I rely on the red indicator to tell me when one tank is empty.
2013 Grey Wolf Select 28BH
2012 Ford F250 Super Duty Lariet 4X4
Heading out on 22 May for first week of camping in 2016.

[dmchapman]

My friend in the propane business says the pressure gauge type of indicator is largely useless for monitoring the level of fuel in the tank. The cheapest gauge sticks on the tank magnetically and is activated by pouring hot water over the tank and gauge. There are electronic scales but they are not practical with an RV mount. Some very few tanks have a float inside the tank. These are accurate but not common. There are also ultrasound or density scanners but they are kind of pricey, too. My method is when one tank runs out switch to the second and refill the first at your next convenient opportunity.