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Old 09-18-2019, 03:14 PM   #1
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"Pass through" storage question

One of the things that bother me about my 2015 23BD Grey Wolf is that there is no "pass through" in the storage area. There is no reason as far as I can see why there can't be. Why did the Cherokee designers or engineers decide this.



Being a disabled person it would be nice to keep my hoses and electrical cords on the side they are used on. Plus you can utilize the space much better without having to lift the bed or a pole with a hook to get the stuff from the other side.



Instead of buying another trailer I need to make some changes to this one to make it user friendly. Like adding USB charging ports.
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Old 09-18-2019, 03:40 PM   #2
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One of the things that bother me about my 2015 23BD Grey Wolf is that there is no "pass through" in the storage area. There is no reason as far as I can see why there can't be. Why did the Cherokee designers or engineers decide this.
Being a disabled person it would be nice to keep my hoses and electrical cords on the side they are used on. Plus you can utilize the space much better without having to lift the bed or a pole with a hook to get the stuff from the other side.
Instead of buying another trailer I need to make some changes to this one to make it user friendly. Like adding USB charging ports.
Must be the simple cost of manufacturing and parts. There is a LOT that can be done at the factory they just never do. From the looks of it, adding a pass through door doesn't seem like a huge undertaking.
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Old 09-18-2019, 03:42 PM   #3
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USB ports are easy. You can buy normal 110 outlets at any big box that have a few USB ports in them, and just swap them out. Depending on your camper you may have to add some extra support for the outlet.
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Old 09-18-2019, 03:54 PM   #4
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Will be adding the cargo door. I had sent the question to FR Cherokee line and got a reply back from Greg Vogt in a short time and he also provided me with a part number. I have also thought about adding a cargo door under the outside of the middle storage in the u-shape storage. That would be a real handy spot for keeping electrical and fresh water hoses. The space is very difficult to access or maybe putting cubby holes from the inside to keep things like the shoe pile from under the table.


I am also working on adding a fuse box in the pass through to add 12v usb connectors and an additional light or two.
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:31 AM   #5
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USB ports are easy. You can buy normal 110 outlets at any big box that have a few USB ports in them, and just swap them out. Depending on your camper you may have to add some extra support for the outlet.
Only issue with using the AC outlets, is just that. It will only work on AC. All the USB ports in the camper currently run off 12V.

I am thinking of changing out one of my outlets near the front door though.
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:49 AM   #6
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On our 2018 Cherokee, the brochure shows "Pass Through Storage" in the floor plan drawing. It's shown on other models also. In reality...there is only a door on ONE SIDE. This does NOT qualify as PASS THROUGH and I've brought this to the attention of FR numerous times with absolutely NO response.
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Old 09-19-2019, 10:26 AM   #7
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Only issue with using the AC outlets, is just that. It will only work on AC. All the USB ports in the camper currently run off 12V.

I am thinking of changing out one of my outlets near the front door though.
If you go through the trouble of putting in 12v supplied USB outlets, Make sure they are high quality and high current models. This is what I installed. To me, its pointless to put in the USB outlets in an AC outlet. Just do the 12V supplied ones.

https://shop.pkys.com/Blue-Sea-1045-...er_p_4757.html
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Old 09-19-2019, 01:11 PM   #8
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On our 2018 Cherokee, the brochure shows "Pass Through Storage" in the floor plan drawing. It's shown on other models also. In reality...there is only a door on ONE SIDE. This does NOT qualify as PASS THROUGH and I've brought this to the attention of FR numerous times with absolutely NO response.

I almost did not buy the trailer for this simple reason. The Salesman told me it was no big deal. We just keep things we don't use very often in the back and then have to dig everything out. DH and I will really like being able to access both sides. I asked Greg Vogt and he said it was something they did not add onto a lot of their models.
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Old 09-19-2019, 01:29 PM   #9
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Some of the Grey Wolf models locate the hot water heater up front, where the opposite (street side) passthrough door would be. My 20RDSE was configured this way.

If yours is also, it will be a pretty major undertaking to relocate the WH and the plumbing leading to it, along with adding another vent opening for the WH on the outside wall.
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Old 09-19-2019, 02:58 PM   #10
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Some of the Grey Wolf models locate the hot water heater up front, where the opposite (street side) passthrough door would be. My 20RDSE was configured this way.

If yours is also, it will be a pretty major undertaking to relocate the WH and the plumbing leading to it, along with adding another vent opening for the WH on the outside wall.
From the pictures, looks like that's not the case. Looks fairly simple if the framing is open enough.


https://www.paulsherryrvs.com/rv/piq...grey+wolf+23bd
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Old 09-19-2019, 04:54 PM   #11
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USB ports are easy. You can buy normal 110 outlets at any big box that have a few USB ports in them, and just swap them out. Depending on your camper you may have to add some extra support for the outlet.
Most RV 120 V outlet receptacles are not wired the same way as residential receptacles. They use an "insulation displacement" technology and dong' have the traditional "box" as residential wiring. So they don't have the long pigtails that are contained in the box either.

You could add a box, a two gang "pop in" box may work, because it would be wide enough to contain both ends of the wire and any connections you added to install the two receptacles. It would have to be shallow though because the RV walls are usually 2x2 instead of 2x4 framing.

If like ours the Load Center is in a cabinet at the back of the camper near the floor and you have an open space, or use a wafer breaker you could add a dedicated circuit to a single or two gang box and have plenty of room for USB ports.

I did this very thing to add a circuit for our "Scare" lights under the camper that we turn on at night to keep Critters from roaming under the camper.

An easier solution may be to add a 6 receptacle cover to allow you to plug in cords and multiple USB chargers to an existing duplex receptacle.............Like this:

https://express.google.com/u/0/produ...8aAhbBEALw_wcB
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Old 09-19-2019, 05:04 PM   #12
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Most RV 120 V outlet receptacles are not wired the same way as residential receptacles. They use an "insulation displacement" technology and dong' have the traditional "box" as residential wiring. So they don't have the long pigtails that are contained in the box either.

You could add a box, a two gang "pop in" box may work, because it would be wide enough to contain both ends of the wire and any connections you added to install the two receptacles. It would have to be shallow though because the RV walls are usually 2x2 instead of 2x4 framing.
I replaced 3 outlets and added a 4th.

I used these "old work" boxes:


(We'll ignore the fact that that's the new outlet and my dumb-ass didn't run it through the actual box. I had to redo that one.)

I did get it right eventually:


But again, for anyone thinking of it- the limitation is that you'll have shore, generator, or inverter power.
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Old 09-19-2019, 07:31 PM   #13
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But again, for anyone thinking of it- the limitation is that you'll have shore, generator, or inverter power.
Seems like a huge limitation. Would kinda suck for me to run a 2000W inverter with its power overhead to power some USB outlets. Running 12V to 120V and then back to 5V is pretty inefficient.
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Old 09-19-2019, 08:15 PM   #14
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USB ports are easy. You can buy normal 110 outlets at any big box that have a few USB ports in them, and just swap them out. Depending on your camper you may have to add some extra support for the outlet.
My MiniLite didn't have any kind of outlet located convenient to the dinette slide (aka guest room), so I installed an aforementioned combination USB/110V receptacle into a residential old-work PVC box. The little swing out feet that clamp the box in place don't offer much surface area and can easily crack and pull through the paper thin "wood" used to construct the cabinetry, so I reinforced the area with a cut-up paint stirring stick.



I used double stick tape to hold the wood bits in place, awkwardly working through the hole I cut only to later realize I had perfectly good access from the forward storage area. Fortunately I had plenty of space because the combination outlet is larger than a standard 110V receptacle and needs a deeper than normal box. I only needed a few feet of Romex because there's an existing outlet nearby, but it's inaccessible with the Murphy bed raised so it's nearly worthless. I'm glad I found the easier outside access so I could safely tack the wire up with some insulated staples.
Obviously this needs shore power or a generator, but that's usually how we camp and not needing extension cords is much more convenient and safe.
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