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Old 08-05-2012, 01:01 PM   #1
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Solved- slide and leveling jacks stopped working!

Here's the situation. Just got back from a camping weekend in which it POURED! (stormed bad).

1. Almost lost my awning (switch inside would not retract..had to do it on the remote.

2. Get home and levelers dont work, tongue doesnt work, slide doesnt work, outside light doesnt work.

3. Inside all of the lighting works fine, water pump works, fridge and micro all work like normal.

I tried everything with or without it plugged into shore power...same results.

I load tested the battery (not just voltage..an actual load tester) and tested fine.

Made sure no breakers were tripped...even turned them all off then back on.

All of this worked 2hrs ago when I left the park. Stopped at McD's on the way home and noticed the outside light was on and turned it off on the remote.

Any suggestions? By the way... It's a 2012 Grey Wolf 28BH

Thanks,
Blake
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:09 PM   #2
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I am not familiar with your exact trailer but since you say the tongue (jack?)
doesn't work I'd start there.
The tongue jack must be connected to the battery or pretty close.
I'm assuming your battery(s) are on the tongue right?
IF you're sure you have good clean tight connections at the battery posts-
follow the battery leads.
Check the ground is good and tight.
Follow the hot + lead.
It probably goes to a junction box or frame mounted main fuse fairly
close to the front of the trailer.
Look underneath along the frame for this fuse/circuit breaker/junction.
Check voltage there both before and after the device you find underneath.
(fuse or circuit breaker or just terminal junction)

Good luck!
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:15 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
I am not familiar with your exact trailer but since you say the tongue (jack?)
doesn't work I'd start there.
The tongue jack must be connected to the battery or pretty close.
I'm assuming your battery(s) are on the tongue right?
IF you're sure you have good clean tight connections at the battery posts-
follow the battery leads.
Check the ground is good and tight.
Follow the hot + lead.
It probably goes to a junction box or frame mounted main fuse fairly
close to the front of the trailer.
Look underneath along the frame for this fuse/circuit breaker/junction.
Check voltage there both before and after the device you find underneath.
(fuse or circuit breaker or just terminal junction)

Good luck!


It's funny you say that. I was actually outside with my multimeter doing that. Here is a pic... the top left terminal with two wires goes back to the tongue and is not getting the standard 13.2v as the others are.

Im guessing this terminal must be bad? And would this make sense to be tied into the awning, slide, and stabilizers?
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:30 PM   #4
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It's hard to tell from the photo but I'm guessing the top part is a one time
fuse. Not positive but it looks like it.
You can try jumping across it to see if your jacks start working.
Don't eliminate the fuse, it that's what it is.
You can buy re-settable circuit breakers online and maybe even at
autozone. If it's a fuse it should be marked for amps.
If not, I'm gonna guess about 30 amps.

Good luck!
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
It's hard to tell from the photo but I'm guessing the top part is a one time
fuse. Not positive but it looks like it.
You can try jumping across it to see if your jacks start working.
Don't eliminate the fuse, it that's what it is.
You can buy re-settable circuit breakers online and maybe even at
autozone. If it's a fuse it should be marked for amps.
If not, I'm gonna guess about 30 amps.

Good luck!

There is a blade fuse 3ft away from that terminal. The power definitely goes into the junction but is NOT coming out of only the part that goes back up front. I dont know if that is just a distribution terminal or if it is a relay of some sort.
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:41 PM   #6
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The problem is at the post where the wires attach to/from
The battery and go the rv. I has the same exact problem with my fr 5th wheel. The light are running on 12v inside. Check the connections sonthat they are tight. If they are tight then it's the battery bad cell/battery needs to be charged or bad junction box. Do a bypass on to the battery to use the power jack!
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Old 08-05-2012, 01:46 PM   #7
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You've found the trouble but we can't really tell what that terminal
block really is.
I'm still betting it has an internal fuse.
You can disconnect at the battery post so you're not hot and then
take wires off the terminal block one at a time.
Use an ohm meter or continuity tester to see where you're loosing
the path.
IF you need to run jacks you can short across posts with a screw driver
while a helper pushes the jack buttons.
Be careful. Wear glasses or goggles. Metal spatter in your eye from
close up can be permanent!

You can most likely remove it, take it to your friendly local RV parts
desk and they'll fix you right up.
Mark wires or maybe just your photo will help get them all back in place.
Once again, if it's a fuse you can replace it with a circuit breaker and
be done with it.
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:46 PM   #8
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Here's an update.... I was a 12v technition for many of my younger years..so troubleshooting this was simple... Might be hard for some though.

(Pic 1) By chance I pulled the switch out for the awning and found out 2 wires came off on the way home and were obviously bouncing off of wires next to them (shorting them out).


(Pic 2) My temporary fix is an inline fuse (laying around from my younger years) crossing the terminals for safety. (30amp fuse). The first fuse I put in blew which meant there was definitely a short somewhere. Thats when I pulled the switch out.


(Pic 3) Just a close up...anyone know what it is or where I can get it?
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TV = 2014 Ram 2500 Big Horn 6.4L V8
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
You've found the trouble but we can't really tell what that terminal
block really is.
I'm still betting it has an internal fuse.
You can disconnect at the battery post so you're not hot and then
take wires off the terminal block one at a time.
Use an ohm meter or continuity tester to see where you're loosing
the path.
IF you need to run jacks you can short across posts with a screw driver
while a helper pushes the jack buttons.
Be careful. Wear glasses or goggles. Metal spatter in your eye from
close up can be permanent!

You can most likely remove it, take it to your friendly local RV parts
desk and they'll fix you right up.
Mark wires or maybe just your photo will help get them all back in place.
Once again, if it's a fuse you can replace it with a circuit breaker and
be done with it.



The screwdriver trick was great on old cars but I wouldnt recommend doing that. A screwdriver will arc if there is a short somewhere and good luck getting it off the terminals. That will be a fire for sure.
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TV = 2014 Ram 2500 Big Horn 6.4L V8
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Kids: 3yo DD (Riley), another DD cookin (Kennedy)
Security: 5yo Boxer (Sasha), 14yo yorkie (Porter)...he was married in
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:50 PM   #10
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the third pic is the re-settable fuse/breaker. you can see the black button.
try pushing the button and see if it starts working again.

not sure where they are available, probably a good RV supply store. not sure if it's used in autos.
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