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Old 07-27-2016, 12:50 PM   #11
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<SNIP>
As for the little stands, people believe that they help you attain a proper slope from the camper to the sewer hookup at the site. In a couple of hundred nights of use, I've yet to have a problem without using them. Once, having your sewer hose off of the ground was required (at a park in Las Vegas).

If you're somewhere for a while, they can help to keep from marring the grass with your sewer hose laying on it. I'm really considering one for just this reason:
Yeah it's a bit pricey but it beats hands down the slinky stands I have seen on the market. Plus it is the only game in town if you have to go over a railroad tie (like I did in one park) or make a 90 turn (as I had to in another CG)

https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Compo.../dp/B00I5LWSRE
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Old 07-27-2016, 12:52 PM   #12
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Yeah it's a bit pricey but it beats hands down the slinky stands I have seen on the market. Plus it is the only game in town if you have to go over a railroad tie (like I did in one park) or make a 90 turn (as I had to in another CG)

https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Compo.../dp/B00I5LWSRE

Problem with that is us folks with 2 sewer connections. Getting them aligned in the wide variety of sites seems like it would be a real pita.

I've had to go over cement lips around the sewer connection- I don't see how a railroad tie would be much different.
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Old 07-27-2016, 01:03 PM   #13
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15k a/c will run you around $600.00
I'm looking to buy a new trailer. Found one at a local dealer that has a 13.5 K AC. Asked about cost to swap to a 15K. Quote was $1300! Total for several changes we wanted made it significantly lower cost to order a trailer and have the factory install the stuff.
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Old 07-27-2016, 01:31 PM   #14
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Frig. cool down.

I always keep in my home freezer, 4 or 5 frozen 1/2 gallon jugs of water and 8 ice cube trays filled and frozen and put them in the MH fridge and freezer to help it cool down faster. Also, make sure the stuff you are packing in the frig is precooled and do not pack the frig so that the air cannot circulate. With the ice it takes hours to cool rather than days.
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Old 07-27-2016, 01:46 PM   #15
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Cheap 12v TV

I just picked up one of these to replace a 13" version I got about 6 years ago. It is powered by a "power brick" that plugs into the wall, but actually runs on 12v so you can splice a cigarette lighter plug or something onto the end, and run it directly on 12v so you don't need an inverter. It is less than $80 with tax if you sign up for a Rite Aid discount card (which is free).

https://shop.riteaid.com/craig-19-72...-count-9027163
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Old 07-27-2016, 02:13 PM   #16
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It's 98 degrees outside here and it took my A/C only about and hour to drop my camper (Rockwood 2603) to 75 degrees. Last summer I couldn't even keep it at 80 during the day unless I used the dump with fans to circulate it around. Cool air was coming out of the vents but it seemed a lot less than what the dump was providing.

While replacing the tank vent covers on the roof I found a major problem. The A/C was running inside and when I removed the cap, cold air shot out. Suddenly and idea popped into what little brainpower I had left from being in the sun all day. I crawled underneath the camper, put my arm on top of my black and grey tanks and felt cool air coming out there too. The factory had cut right through the ceiling duct when they installed the tank vent pipes and a lot of my A/C was just dumping outside.

To fix that I bought a can of expansion foam and on the roof applied it around the vent pipes below the ceiling duct channel and then above it before reinstalling the vent caps.

The 2nd thing I did was to remove the inside A/C cover, I saw they had just cut into the side of the duct channel and the air coming out of the unit was hitting flat surfaces creating a lot of turbulence. Using the can of expansion foam I filled up the whole area around the duct channels and when it cured used a knife to cut out new channels from the A/C to the ceiling ducts, being careful to lead the airflow at angles to allow for a smooth flow into the ducts. Before reinstalling the inside cover I covered all metal supports with the foam, trimmed it clean to prevent any sweating caused by the cool air.

Now the vents have more air coming out of them on low than they ever did on high before. We never use high anymore except for initial cooling.

The attached pics show a little. I even supported the roof with a metal bar because it was leaking when it rained because the roof panel was bending down due to the A/C seal.
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Old 07-28-2016, 05:25 PM   #17
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The freezer will cool 1st when you turn on the ref. Only after it's happy, will the lower part start to cool down. So as suggested, we have 3 one gallon jugs of ice we keep in our deep freeze and put those in the freezer to get things started. When loading, also load items pre-cooled in your home ref. Another key to to park that side of your unit in a shade which will cool the air flow going over your fins. As far as using a slinky. Any type is fine. I have a bad back that was giving me issues on one trip. When I dumped the hoses, there was enough lifting to put my back over the edge and had intense pain the rest of the trip. No fun! ! The biggest thing is to have fun. You're going to make mistakes . . . we all do and have. Just learn from your mistakes and laugh at them. Enjoy.
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Old 07-28-2016, 09:15 PM   #18
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Wow... so many great tips in here. Id like to thank all of you for your contributions to this thread... What an awesome community!! Cheers!
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Old 08-01-2016, 03:12 PM   #19
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Problem with that is us folks with 2 sewer connections. Getting them aligned in the wide variety of sites seems like it would be a real pita.

I've had to go over cement lips around the sewer connection- I don't see how a railroad tie would be much different.
When we had the 5er, we had 2 connections as well. I just positioned the flow down in the middle and favored the gray/black tank. Popped the WasteMaster off the Black/Gray and on the Galley. It was pretty easy to do.

now (thankfully!) I only have one central sewer connection
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