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Old 08-08-2012, 12:34 PM   #11
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I have never had a single problem running ST tires, ever, but I don't run junk tires either.
All of the problems I have ever read about were from those who were running the cheapo brands.
For those who want to spend extra money on an LT tire, that is entirely your choice, and right to do so. I simply do not see the need.
It is a free country, after all!
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:48 PM   #12
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Cold tire psi : tire psi before driving or towing. Tire psi will rise from friction from road. Can rise as much as 10 psi. If you set your tire psi after you driving all day you can actually under inflate your tires, causing sidewall damage. This will result in blow outs and bubbles in the sidewalls. Best way to service you tires is trailer unloaded and before moving trailer or waiting 2 hrs before checking psi. Remember unloaded trailer. If you have toy hauler this step very crucial
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:13 PM   #13
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In regards to (Cold air pressure settings) make sure that on sde of your unit is not in the sun and one side is. If you have (TPMS) you will soon learn that the (Sun side) while going down the road will read (1-3) PSI more . Your case may differ. Youroo!!
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:56 PM   #14
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the reason i am looking for the best grade tire is that i have had a blow out. it was probably due to the 114 deg temp and driving at over the speed rating of the tire. the tires were in their 3rd yr. did a couple thousand damage to the trailer. the tires were original from cardinal.

one thing i will point out if u change ur tires, make sure u don't exceed the pressure ratings of ur rims. (the pressure rating on mine were stamped on one of the spokes near the rim back side. u also want to stay with as good or better weight rating. some of the sizes are not interchangeable.

in what i was reading, it stressed the importance of not under or inflating the tires. heat is their enemy.
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Old 08-08-2012, 02:54 PM   #15
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Standard rule of thumb:
If you have a blowout in a trailer tire, replace them all! Here's why-
* All the weight that one tire was carrying has rapidly shifted to the other one(s) on that side, weakening them.
* Trailer tires do not typically wear out. They get old and weak. A blowout is a good sign that the tires are old and weak.
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I have no fear of using LT tires on a TT. I've been using them on my flatbed trailer for years and it's all we ever run on our hay wagons.
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:08 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by jimh View Post
the st and lt are designed the same. no difference in side roll. the difference is the higher speed rating and temp rating of the lt. the st has a higher weight rating with less reserve. the lt has a greater reserve. the st doesn't require the more stringent testing because a failure on it is not considered life threatening.

i've been told the larger trailers come with LT but i am unable to varify that (the trailers i looked at had ST). i did notice that a couple of tires and rims that i purchased from a trailer supply were both LT (much to my surprise). the st is also not to exceed 65 mph. if i can find the links, i will be happy to supply them.
Just went through this, the tires are not designed the same, the ST are designed to have more side flex than the LT. I was of the opinion that I too wanted to move to an LT tire until I tried. You will get different responses by MFG but Michelin will not support any LT tire application on a trailer, Good Year does not recommend it until you get to the 6XX series LT tire which are 12 ply steel side wall tires. They will tell you the twisting of the tires will break down the sidewalls and cause an early failure of the tire.
You are correct in that the LT have higher testing requirements, and offer a 20% buffer in their specs.
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:28 PM   #17
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From Tire Tech Information - Trailer Tires vs. Passenger Vehicle Tires

"There are differences in the driving requirements between the tires on your trailer and those on the car or light truck you used to tow it. Therefore there are distinct differences between the way trailer tires and tow vehicle tires are engineered.

Your tow vehicle is a leader, which means traction is a key focus in the design of its tires. Traction allows your tow vehicle to accelerate down the road, turn around the corner and brake to a stop. Another important consideration is tow vehicle tires are designed for ride comfort, which is achieved in part by allowing their sidewalls to flex.

Your trailer is a follower, which often makes tire sidewall flexing a negative. Sidewall flexing on trailers, especially those with a high center of gravity (enclosed/travel trailers) or that carry heavy loads, is a primary cause of trailer sway. Typical passenger radial tires with flexible sidewalls can accentuate trailer sway problems. The stiffer sidewalls and higher operating pressures common with Special Trailer (ST) designated tires help reduce trailer sway.

Also consider that Special Trailer (ST), as well as Light Truck (LT) tires are fully rated for trailer applications. This means ST- and LT-sized tires can carry the full weight rating branded on the sidewalls when used on a trailer.

However when P-metric or Euro-metric tires are used on a trailer, the load capacity branded on the sidewalls must be reduced by 9%. This means P-metric or Euro-metric tires with a maximum branded load rating of 1,874 lbs. for use on a car is only rated to carry 1,705 lbs. when used on a trailer."
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:37 PM   #18
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Joel, you suggested that this psi number (65 psi when cold in my case) is the maximum the tire can handle. I know has the tires heat up the pressure will increase. Should I be getting into the habit of setting the pressure 5-7 pounds below this cold number????
I know you asked Joel, but Tires are always set cold. (Cold Inflation Pressure). They are designed to take the normal increase in pressure as they warm up.

Never set the pressure less than you need. At the warmer temperatures you will need the higher pressures.
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:40 PM   #19
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I know you asked Joel, but Tires are always set cold. (Cold Inflation Pressure). They are designed to take the normal increase in pressure as they warm up.

Never set the pressure less than you need. At the warmer temperatures you will need the higher pressures.
And at the higher highway pressure, the rolling resistance is slightly less which also helps keep the temperature down a little.
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Old 08-08-2012, 04:31 PM   #20
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the post that i had been reading had an answer from goodyear and the LT could be used in place of ST. the LT has more rubber in it. the recommended Goodyear tire is also the G614. problem with that tire is that my rims aren't rated at the required pressure.
the same (that u said) was said abt the other passenger tires.
this is one of the sites that i've been watching...actually is is one of the reference sites. Barry's Tire Tech
looks like until u get into the E or greater, they don't suggest an LT replacement for the ST.
Both the LT and the ST have to pass the same test for strength and bead separation (mount horizontally and push down until the bead breaks or a specified force is reached). i know that this doesn't say the something as the cords being laid differently but they are both radial in the sidewalls. looks like it would cover squirm.
they also said the outside treads should be smooth. they shouldn't have slits that will cause them to grip. their take is that the grip will cause squirm while ur driving down the road.
i went 13 years without a flat. actually changed the tires out on the last trailer because they were worn. that trailer weighed 4500 unloaded. my current trailer is 10800 unloaded. made 3 years on original tires and one blew and shredded. replaced it and the other on the same side had the tread separate less than 100 miles down the road (supports awjoker's statement). after one incident, i became interested and read what i could abt tire checking and recommendations. this is definitely not my field.
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