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Old 03-27-2014, 09:36 AM   #11
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This was one of ours. Legal length, but barely.
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:13 AM   #12
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Regardless of anyone's success in doing this modification to there trailer I would be soooo apprehensive loading a "light" or "ultra light" trailer with a hich and applying weight to it.
These "fabricated I beams are trully not designed for these stresses or the manufacturer (a) wouldn't put a sticker such as this on the bumper.
Or (b) they would have an option for a hitch.
Just becuase someone has bragged he's been doing it for years or has said I've not had any problems doesn't make it the right thing to do.
Not all trailers are created equal.
What "may" be right for one may not even be close for another.
I've first hand seen "bows" "cracks" and "breaks" in frames not even pulling a "second trailer".

I think that you guys trying to talk another individual that you dont know or even have the same trailer into something like this is absurd.

And ive got plenty more pics.



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Old 03-27-2014, 10:19 AM   #13
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I think ive "said enough"

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Old 03-27-2014, 10:20 AM   #14
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My trailer came with a rear bumper mounted spare tire from the factory... I am confident that the tire would cause more damage than my little jet ski.

As I stated before, it can be done safely but as someone else mentioned there are A LOT of variables to really consider!

I tow my single place jet ski about 6-8 hours on flat ground to our lake of choice, if the terrain got too wicked for me, I wouldn't be nearly as comfortable as I am with my straight roads and flat ground...

I am also confident in my engineering, welding and fabrication that I wont have any trouble...

As the pictures above show carnage of the rear bumper they really don't scare me. It is the rear bumper, not many issues come up with the frame, not saying they don't happen, but not nearly as often as the bumper... thus proving that a bumper mounted hitch CAN be a bad idea...
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:31 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f1100turbo View Post
I think that you guys trying to talk another individual that you dont know or even have the same trailer into something like this is absurd.
Couldn't that be said for any input that we give on the forum? From towing at all to suggesting a voltmeter (I honestly have no idea how to use one and can only imagine the shock I'd manage to give myself stuffing the probes into a 50amp outlet) to replacing heating elements on the water heater to (well, you name it). We have to take a leap of faith with the forums.

All I'm saying- the recommendation is that it can be done. The OP needs to learn how to do it safely.

Here's proof that no one should ever tow a camper or even use a slide-in camper:











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Old 03-27-2014, 10:34 AM   #16
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that sure derailed the argument! nicely stated Doug...


People need to do what the feel comfortable with...
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:42 AM   #17
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Regardless of how many times it's been done, I would not attach a hitch to ANY of the trailers built with a fabricated I beam frame. They are not designed for those type loads regardless of anyone's design or welding expertise. You are just creating a potential problem for yourself and others. To quote FT Turbs, "It's absurd".
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:43 AM   #18
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Did that garbage truck drive THROUGH that Class C???

But yes, NOTHING is 100% safe. Life is a risk. You only live and die once. Make the most of it while you're alive.
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:43 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by OldCoot View Post
Regardless of how many times it's been done, I would not attach a hitch to ANY of the trailers built with a fabricated I beam frame. They are not designed for those type loads regardless of anyone's design or welding expertise. You are just creating a potential problem for yourself and others.


WD-40 wasn't designed to be a lubricant, and duct tape wasn't meant for household uses...

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Old 03-27-2014, 10:45 AM   #20
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Picture I posted above was a 16" box tubed Leland frame. I'm stepping out of this thread.
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