Water heater drain valve

[BillyBass]

Hey guys dont open that link I reported it sorry about that

[Bluepill]

The BluePill E-Z flush system:

1. Open the Temp/pressure relief valve at the top of the heater.

2. Do a quick flip.

[rvdoctor]

One can always drain water heater by opening the hot water low point drain.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by rvdoctor

One can always drain water heater by opening the hot water low point drain.

I wonder why the W/H MFG says to Remove the "Drain" Plug on the Tank? Youroo!!

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by rvdoctor

One can always drain water heater by opening the hot water low point drain.

Given my hot water low point drain is lower than my water heaters hot water outlet, which is at the top of my HWH, I don't get this.

Cold water drain I can understand, except I wouldn't want to get all that white crud in my cold water line.

[rvdoctor]

You are correct. I meant to say cold water low point drain. Fingers apparently went into action just prior to brain processing response.

[Scrapper]

For those which say all you need to do is open the HW low point drain and HW faucets and it will drain.

Not if your HW bypass has a check valve on the hot water outlet at the top of the heater. The check valve will not let the air in through the outlet line into the WH tank.

That check valve is spring loaded to prevent cold water from going into the WH hot water outlet, so it will not let air pass through either.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

For those which say all you need to do is open the HW low point drain and HW faucets and it will drain.

Not if your HW bypass has a check valve on the hot water outlet at the top of the heater. The check valve will not let the air in through the outlet line into the WH tank.

That check valve is spring loaded to prevent cold water from going into the WH hot water outlet, so it will not let air pass through either.

Just pop open your HWH's pressure relief valve.

[Villagerjjm]

I had one of those that I used on my CUB back in 2004. I stopped using it because accumulated sediment / scale used to clog it all the time. The opening is really small. What I do now is just pull the anode out and let the water rush out. I do not drain it through the low point drains. Any sediments will get into the water lines if you drain through the low points, then the sediment clogs up the faucet valves when you prep for a trip. Also, I do not leave the anode in the tank when the TT is stored. I wipe it down and let it dry, then store it in a makeshift pvc pipe I made up. I replace the anode with a brass plug so that no creepie crawlies can make a home. I do the same with the KW1 filter. Leaving it in place allows for residual condensation to promote mold or bacteria.

[Asrabbit]

On a home water heater it is true that there is an anode rod. Of course, my water heater is in a closet and it is elevated, (required by code since it is a gas heater). I have limited room at the top of the heater and would never be able to get the anode rod out of the heater as I do not have the clearance. I guess I could disconnect the plumbing and tilt it out of the closet.

Also, as far as the drain goes, on the home water heaters I have seen, (and I have not seen them all), the drain is not at the lowest point of the tank. It is low alright, but it is not at the bottom. I just do not think if you drain one you are doing much good if your purpose is to get sediment out of the bottom of the tank.

When I moved into my current home, the water heater was already 10 plus years old. I let it go for a while, (also someone had installed a larger furnace in the closet and the water heater would not come out without moving the furnace). I finally got around to moving the furnace over by about three inches, (which was a large job itself), and then replacing the heater. I figured out home much stuff gets left in the tank even after it is drained when I tilted the heater forward to get it out of the closet. I replaced the new heater several years ago after it had been in service for 12 years. Never drained it during the time I used it as I just did not see what good it would do.

Also, the first house I owned after college was a very old house. It had a Rudd water heater that had a cooper tank. I think it came with the house. I was pretty old. It would make all kinds of noises as it heated. I did some remodeling of the house and decided to replace the water heater. When I opened the drain valve, I did not get a single drip of water out of that thing, (and I had the lines cut so thee was plenty of air and there was no such thing as a T & P valve on that old heater). I did everything I could think of to get that thing to drain, tapping on the valve to beating on the valve. No water would come out. I was young and stupid, (now I am old and stupid), so I got a little wire and started working it up the drain valve. Well, I broke whatever crud was stopping it up free and was pretty happy. Then I figured out as my five gallon buck was filling to the top, I could not get that old valve to close down. There was no way to stop the water which was now flowing at a pretty good flow. I was totally unprepared for that. You just grab every container of any type from the kitchen that you can find and do the best you can. I appreciated not having a slab foundation more than ever that particular day.

[youroo]

You can buy "Segment Linkage A-Rods" for Low clearance applications! Youroo!!

[Asrabbit]

Did not know that. What do you do about getting the old one out?

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Asrabbit

Did not know that. What do you do about getting the old one out?

Most are "Used Up" therefore just a Wire to bend for removal,just a little longer than the RV type! Youroo!!