Wheel Chock Problem

[kjoh75]

I own a 2005 Cherokee 27l with a tandem axle. We camped over Memorial weekend. I use the pinch down wheel chocks that go between the front and back wheels. I had to place a plactic lago block under one side to level the camper from side to side. That first evening we had heavy down pours and wind. I didn't sleep well and it seemed like the front corner (bedroom area) was lower then the rest of the trailer. I felt a tendency to roll to that side. The next morning I decided to start from scratch and raise the corner stabilizers in hope of equalling out this twist in the camper. I took the pressure of the back two stabilizers first. Then all of a sudden the whole camper began to roll forward. I had the tongue jack on a block of 4X4 wood 6 inch high. The tongue jack slipped off the wood block. The camper rolled forward about 6-8 inches. The tires rolled off the one level of lago blocks I had under them. The front scissor stabilizer jacks that were still touching the ground folded under.

What I found was that the wheel chocks had some how loosened. I know they were tight when we first set up the camper for the weekend. I know we had a big temperature shift once the storm front came through. Now I wonder if this could cause the tire pressure to change enough to cause the wheel chocks to be loose?

Live and learn. I just ordered two new front stabilizers to replace the damaged ones. Doesn't look to hard to replace on my own. I have another camping trip planned in two weeks.

Has anyone come across this problem?

Other then checking the wheel chocks daily does anyone have any other suggestions that might work better to keep this from happening again.

[TURBS]

X chocks will solve your issue.

[kjoh75]

Doesn't the chocks I use that pinch down from above and below work on the same principal as the X-chocks. I thought it did (Purchased at Walmart). I hand tightened mine down so they felt solid and didn't budge.

[travyp]

If you set up right after you got off the road (which almost all do) the tires will be at a higher pressure from going down the road. As they cool to normal temps, the tires will contract back down and you need to re-tighten the chocks.

[Dave_Monica]

Originally Posted by travyp

If you set up right after you got off the road (which almost all do) the tires will be at a higher pressure from going down the road. As they cool to normal temps, the tires will contract back down and you need to re-tighten the chocks.

As above...re-tighten after sitting for a couple of hours and you'd be surprised how much more you can tighten them up.

Dave

[TURBS]

Sorry I assumed by your first post you meant slide in wedge chocks,sorry

[LadyWindrider]

If you use any type of tire lock, that goes between the wheels, that is the last thing you put in, after the trailer is level, and the first thing you remove when you get ready to hook up. If you must re-level your trailer, you should loosen these firs, re-level, then reinstall or re-tighten. The tire diameter will change a little with heat, but when you were adjusting the jacks, you caused a suspension shift, which caused the distance between the tires to change,(it's a geometry thing, having to do with the the way the springs are joined in the center), and therefore your camper moved. Lesson learned, NEVER mess with jack, leveling, hooking, unhooking, without first having the wheels chocked with chocks on the ground.

[kjoh75]

Windrider,
Thank you for the response. You are the first to mention using the ground chocks first. I guess I have never heard of that before. This being only my third year using a tt I have only used the squeeze down chocks in the middle. Some areas I have set up the camper have not been level. I guess I wouldn't trust those ground chocks to start with in those cases. Same for my driveway at home. Lets just say it is up hill to start with (approx 20 degrees) and not has steep a slant at the top (5 degrees). I park the camper there (part time) but the tongue jack is over the steeper part and needs to be almost fully extended to make the camper almost level. Again those ground chocks make me nervous as a first step. I don't use the corner stabilizers when in the driveway.

But I will try your method the next trip out (2 weeks)

Curious to hear from others on your comment (agree or disagree)

[MIKE44460]

These do not move, period. Jack is from Chevy Colbalt, $5 at a junk yard.

They do need a coat of paint.

[OldCoot]

Have used the x chocks between the tires for years without putting any chocks on the ground and never had a problem on unlevel sites as the tires never leave the ground. Would be hesitant about putting the jack on the ground beween wooden chocks as if enough pressure is put on the chocks, the wheels will be elevated off the ground thus defeating the purpose. But, bottom line, everyone has their own way of doing things and that's what makes this world go around.

[DonG]

Mike444, that is a great idea. I tried to rig up a similar deal with two steel ramps and a long bolt to spread them but it was cumbersome. I still have the ramps, so will just go looking for a scissor jack in the scrap pile.
Thanks a bunch!

[MIKE44460]

DonG,

I really tighten them up, sometimes to a point I can't knock them out real easy, I just have the DW to pull forward a little to get the pressure off and once one on each side it out, no sweat. I hope it works as well for you as it does for me.

[Rsgtivr6]

I was told the complete opposite advice from what you had, wind. I was told to put my Bal X-chocks on before unhitching and to just adjust the tightness after leveling. I was told keeps the trailer from moving while unhitching and leveling and then you just adjust after. Then upon breaking camp, they should be the last thing you remove before towing away.

I didn't notice much difference after leveling and unhitching in tightness, but I will check after they cool down now. I don't think I will have much change, though, since I have N2 filled tires, but it's worth the check!

[DonG]

Originally Posted by MIKE44460

I really tighten them up, sometimes to a point I can't knock them out real easy

That is the way I would do it!
Thanks again for the idea.

[MIKE44460]

What I should of said was, after I remove the jack, they may or may not come out easy, not easy to move with the jack in place at all.

[DonG]

Originally Posted by MIKE44460

What I should of said was, after I remove the jack, they may or may not come out easy, not easy to move with the jack in place at all.

Oh, of course I knew that is what you meant!
Doh!

[LadyWindrider]

Due to the pivot bar that connects the springs together between the axles, (talking leaf spring trailers), and movement of the frame, as when leveling, will move this pivot bar, as it tries to keep equal pressure on both axles, (that is what it's job is). As it pivots, there can be some variation of the distance between the wheels, especially where the X Chocks are touching. The distance between the axles at the center of the hub won't change, but the distance at the point of contact for X Chocks may move, as one wheel gets farther, the other gets closer. Anyway, I would never hook or unhook without ground chocks. One in front, and one in back, one each side. Nothing fancy, sometimes, just a short piece of 2x4 lumber, but will keep a trailer from moving very far. Also, when unhooking, the last thing I remove are the safety chains. That way if it left on it's own, it will have to take the truck with it. I do camp in the mountains a lot, and on some not so level sites.

Just stating what works for me, you will have to do as you wish, and pay for the damage when things don't go as planned.

[grhodes50]

I'll have to agree with windrider on this.

It's my understanding the X-chocks or the pinch down kind (I've used both) are for stabilizing the fore and aft movement of the tt after you're set up. They're the first thing I remove when tearing down.

You should always use ground chocks to stop trailer movement. They're the first thing I do before unhitching and I only remove them after hitching up.

[BigTJohn]

X2 for both WindRider and grhodes50. Must level L/R then ground chock (at LEAST one fwd one aft, opposite corners; e.g. left front/right rear) FIRST, then go about with the for/aft leveling. Once complete THEN put in the X-Chock(s). The X-Chock instructions state they are LAST to be installed, FIRST to be removed when making/breaking camp. Also - one IS able to pull the trailer over (and thoroughly squish) plastic chocks, don't ask how I know.

[Dennis and Julie]

When 1st setting up we use ground chocks and when camper is level all the way around then we put in the x-chocks and tighten as much as possible, after finishing set up of camp we go back and tighten x-chocks one last time. Also if we are out for more than a few days we check again just to be on the safe side.