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11-08-2018, 02:44 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 49
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Winterize Water Heater
I am winterizing today, an inch of snow forecast for tomorrow.
I plan on using the camper in a month or two on a trip to Tennessee and then Florida, so I prefer to use the method to blow out the water with compressed air and use as little RV anti freeze as possible.
I first wanted to bypass the water heater. See attached pic. Sure looks like all 3 faucets are in the open position. Just want to see what you think, why would anybody do this? I bought this camper used a few months ago. I never used the water system because I needed to keep the weight down.
Questions:
1. Where do you get fresh water when you get near your destination?
2. Do I just need to close the in/out valves since the bypass is already open?
3. I am having a hard time getting my hot water heater drain plug back in. It was unscrewed, so the threads may be damaged slightly. Do you know what size tap/die is required? I just want to clean up the threads. I tried a dremel tool with a wire wheel already.
Thanks for the help!
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11-08-2018, 02:47 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 49
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I couldn't add a 2nd picture, the upload fails so here it is.
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11-08-2018, 02:52 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,329
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Yea, those valves aren't set right for anything. If you want to bypass the WH, turn the top and bottom one both 90 degrees.
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11-08-2018, 02:58 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSP
I couldn't add a 2nd picture, the upload fails so here it is.
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All your valves are open. To bypass the heater to winterize you need to close the two valves closest to the heater. To dewinterize and use the heater, you need to open the two valves closest to the heater and close the one in the middle.
All three should never be in the same position.
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11-08-2018, 02:59 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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The Anode rod threads are 3/4: NPT. They can be a bit of a pain to get them to rethread in correctly because the rod wants to tilt down causing the fitting to cross thread. You have to hold the socket at an angle to get the threads to start correctly. I usually place a thin nut in the socket behind the rod fitting so that it won't recess into the socket too far.
I prefer to use a pipe tap to clean up the threads, but you have to be careful not to cut new threads, but just chase the ones that are there.
As for the bypass valves , it does appear that the bypass valve is set to bypass and the inlet and outlet valves are set to normal flow. Just turn the inlet and outlet valves 90º and that will bypass the water heater.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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11-08-2018, 03:03 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSP
I am winterizing today, an inch of snow forecast for tomorrow.
I plan on using the camper in a month or two on a trip to Tennessee and then Florida, so I prefer to use the method to blow out the water with compressed air and use as little RV anti freeze as possible.
I first wanted to bypass the water heater. See attached pic. Sure looks like all 3 faucets are in the open position. Just want to see what you think, why would anybody do this? I bought this camper used a few months ago. I never used the water system because I needed to keep the weight down.
Questions:
1. Where do you get fresh water when you get near your destination?
2. Do I just need to close the in/out valves since the bypass is already open?
3. I am having a hard time getting my hot water heater drain plug back in. It was unscrewed, so the threads may be damaged slightly. Do you know what size tap/die is required? I just want to clean up the threads. I tried a dremel tool with a wire wheel already.
Thanks for the help!
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I don't think the threads are stripped. The weight of the anode not is pulling down and making it difficult to get started. Put a lot of pressure on the bottom with your fingers to get it to go in straight.
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11-08-2018, 03:16 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 49
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Thanks for all the help, you all rock!
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11-15-2018, 07:41 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Canton, GA
Posts: 31
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I cannot find any examples online of the way mine is set up - two valves, but one is at the junction of the hot water and the bypass? Have I done this correctly?
Closeup of bottom (cold) valve:
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Vel
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11-16-2018, 02:18 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velvethippie
I cannot find any examples online of the way mine is set up - two valves, but one is at the junction of the hot water and the bypass? Have I done this correctly?
Closeup of bottom (cold) valve:
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Vel
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Howdy Vel, your picture links do not work. You probably need to upload the pics to the thread, instead of linking.
This thread has several pics of different winterizing/bypass valves. Can you see if yours is like any of them?
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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11-19-2018, 07:55 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Canton, GA
Posts: 31
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I was able to get it sorted out eventually by trial and error, but take a look at this interesting setup:
__________________
2018 Ford F-350 Lariat 6.7L Super Duty
2017 Cherokee 274VFK
2008 Club Car Precedent
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11-25-2018, 12:59 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Cheyenne Wyoming
Posts: 19
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Hi Vel,
It would appear that you are set for the bypass in the picture that you posted.
I would guess that if you turn both the "hot" side and "cold" side valves 90 degrees that would be the flow into the water heater.
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11-25-2018, 01:32 PM
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#12
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Denver To Yuma In 90 Days
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 3,882
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Also, your anode rod looks like it could be replaced and that might make it screw in a little easier.
Under $15 bucks at RV stores, Walmart, Ace and True Value Hardware stores, Big R, Tractor Supply...
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11-25-2018, 01:52 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velvethippie
I was able to get it sorted out eventually by trial and error, but take a look at this interesting setup:
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See page 2 of the attached file. You appear to have option #2b.
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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11-25-2018, 02:48 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Canton, GA
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo
See page 2 of the attached file. You appear to have option #2b.
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Except the center piece is red instead of blue, not that that matters, I guess.
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11-25-2018, 08:14 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velvethippie
Except the center piece is red instead of blue, not that that matters, I guess.
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Nope. The water doesn't care what color the pipe is.
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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11-25-2018, 08:29 PM
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#16
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 33,954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by velvethippie
Except the center piece is red instead of blue, not that that matters, I guess.
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It doesn't really matter, is functions the same actually.
With your valve on the blue cold water inlet closed off (handle perpendicular to the line), then no water can enter the tank thus no water can come out either. The valve handle on the crossover line (between the blue cold and red hot) then when turned inline with the crossover line, then will not allow cold water to backflow into the tank via the red hot water line (thus the tank is bypassed)
The other way has the crossover valve diverting the cold water into the crossover line before it gets to the tank (thus shutting off the inlet) and then the valve on the hot water line keeps it from backflowing into the tank (again bypassing the tank)
Both setups accomplish the same thing.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS
A 72 hour hold in a psych unit is beginning to intrigue me as a potential vacation opportunity.
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12-04-2018, 02:06 PM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Brookfield, WI
Posts: 49
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I hope to use the camper in a month or so. I try to keep the camper as light as possible when I am towing it. I am going near a popular tourist area where there is a lot of camping during the summer. Are there gas stations that have fresh water to fill up my fresh water tank?
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12-04-2018, 02:39 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Jefferson, PA
Posts: 451
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Many Flying Js have an RV lane with fuel, water and dump station.
__________________
Larry
2014 Ram 3500 Dually 4x4 6.7 Cummins
2017 Sandpiper 378FB
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12-04-2018, 02:47 PM
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#19
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,845
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCSP
Are there gas stations that have fresh water to fill up my fresh water tank?
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Not regular gas stations. Some truck stops, like Flying J, may have potable water.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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